WJM

Means....some kind of error for input to the FI? meaning...the ECU isnt able to talk to the FI???

Ok ok ok......due to some financial contraints...i might not beable to purchase the TWE header and DP...BUT... from here, I...err, we, can get the flanges for the IHI RHB5 VF7 turbo...or, the TD04 (13G) http://www.uniquemotorsports.com/products/IHI_flange.htm Now...IF someone can locate me a source for the exhaust flanges for the head to header...maybe we can get something going...if you read what I am typing a certin creative way...oh and with these two clues, im sure someone will have a brite lite turn on over thier head and post what I am proposing here....ive got a welder comming, and I have Portaband here...and ive got parts to rig up an EA82T on its engine/suspension crossmember on a stand,...woops, 3 clues! Ok, i need exhaust flanges for the exh header!

If those belts are for factory A/C, meaning the AC is between the ALT and PS....Pleiades has the correct numbers in his glove box of the grassroots RX...i went thru that mess, the TAMS computer (NAPA's Total Automotive Management *Messup* System) lists some WAY WAY off the wall numbers for the belts that are S class...meaning Special Order...and yes, there was that one belt in SC....anyhow, any capable counterman (*ME*) would look at how long those belts are, and match them up with some of the 25-73xx series, which is what I did...i just dont remember the numbers....

With no T-belt covers...all you need is a 12mm, 3 inch ext, ratchet, a long screw driver, and tools (usually 12mm wrench and above mentioned ratchet assy) to get the drive belts off, and you can install new T-belts on the side of the road...as long as you have t belts and remember the procedure. center mark on flywheel, drivers side up, install belt, use SD to put some tension on belt, tighten down. Turn crank 360 deg, center mark again, and do the passenger side...and *ding*, done and on your way.

injectors 1 and 2? Hm. That doesnt sound right for a SPFI ECU, SPFI has ONE Fuel injector. Might want to use a known SPFI ECU, as the one in it may be MPFI or TURBO. I dont know how to tell the differences by looking at the ECUs....

That and take a pressure washer, or do a really good job with a regular hose, and wash out the area for the linkages, and with the engine stopped, flush the clutch area...although all may dissagree, due to contamination the water may impose on parts in there...but its something to try before spending $ on a clutch job at a shop...even tho its time for one, why not try to go a little further on this one?

A gen 3 head is simply a better head. resists warping, cracking and cools better than the early'er heads....although some argue there are no differences....while one (me) doesnt really know the difference at all for sure. I do have nothing but 2nd gen heads...

An XT is the most areodynamic production car of the time. It looks like a wedge on 4 wheels. lol Anyhow...subaru tex's information will be great for your install...its around somewhere....

Once the oil gets warm and the oil circulates really well after some time running, say, 30 miles at most, the HVLA noise will go away....*should* go away. If not, then its some trash in the HVLA.

You can fit shallow 6.5's in the front and rear. Stock is 4 on the front with some kind of factory bracket, and the rears are 6.5. Pleiades has replaces the stock RX ones with some walmart 'yellow lighting' speakers, which are quite good...thats my current RX that I got from him. And in the Grassroots car, he got the 4 inch version, so the interior could remain stock...and those fit into that stock bracket faily easily.

Depends on what the EA82T is in....an XT, or non-XT? I think XT installtion will be a little different than if its in..say, an RX or GL-10 wagon....also what kind of intake, a standard flat one with the TB vertical, or the SI (Spyder Intake) with the TB horizontal, and on the backside of the engine (so to say) I will be installing a WRX IC onto a slightly modified SI with an XT6 TB (which is 10MM larger in diameter), and its in the GL-10 wagon. SUBARU tex has done this installation...he has detail somewhere...

Ah, true! I see that now.

look up! edit: that 63.5MM translates to 2.5 inches.

the 4 bolt holes *DO NOT* match up. 53.5MM vs 63.5MM is the size difference. The Spyder TB opening under the Thr. Plate is the same size as the stock TB, so that material would need to be removed, and new holes drilled for the new TB. Im going to get a little nutty on this project. The bolt pattern is slightly larger. I *think* you could *maybe* use two of the existing holes and then drill/tap the other two...i didnt mess with it that long to find out. I'll just center it over the original opening, mark and drill 4 new ones, and then trim it. And FYI: I am going to a spyder intake (SI for short, its official now!) with an XT6 TB, and I just have the XT6 upper intake for ideas and extra parts.

The fact that the cams are installed. I dont know the exact science of that tho...

Ive got a spyder laying there...and you just never know what Im going to do. Yes, there is a size difference between the spyder/regular TB VS the XT6 TB. I have not measured yet.

XT6 vs the stock MPFI/Turbo one. And if you dare to look...my little collection...and an idea will form from all of that mess... http://www.pixiad.com/pix/WJM/DSCF2113.JPG

To properly set the timing, put the engine at TDC #1, take the cap off, and see where the rotor shoudl sit for TDC #1...and then put the rotor there, by lifting the dizzy up and rotating the rotor appropriately. Then...adjsut the timing advance to about the middle of the allowable adjustment area...that should be really really close to stock. I know my DL ran like crap on that setting, so I have almost have it all the way advanced, and it runs great on regular pump gas.

The first cat is easy....if you know how to weld and can get access to a welder. Cut the neck off the can at the top...take a rod and a hammer (or a long long drill bit and drill, and drill out the cat and cage holding it) and knock the cat out. Then, weld it back together. Ive done three like that.

Ditto. My RX was the same.

The next set??? Looks like my Fiance is going to get them for me....she lives in Germany.

Yeah, I'll bring them back in a suitcase.

No t-stat=bad. The coolant would circulate too fast, and would not pick up the heat properly, that and it would take a while to get up to temp...and engine runnability problems. Ive tried it.

Quite a rough translation. Undoubtibly a computer translation!

First things first....get a MAF adapter plate, and fit a 3 inch ID cone filter to it, and bolt it in the MAF (or flapper air flow meter for the pre MAF ones). For a quick exhaust fix...gut BOTH cats and hack the muffler off. Bam, thats ATLEAST 20 HP there. Now, to get a little more complex...a good header and Down pipe will be sure to unlock an additional 10-20 HP, exspecially if there is no back pressure at all in the system... Delta Cams, (http://www.deltacam.com/) the 677-260 grind, is VERY streetable, and will unlock an additional 10-20 HP, and free up those upper RPMs (5500-7500) for use, as long as the intake and exhaust is free flowing, and NOT factory. So, intake, header, DP, cams...that should get you going. There are a many different little things...such as fine adjustments to timing, and replacing ignition components with quality ones to unlock a little more power, and add to the stability of the powerband that will keep the engine happy. Key things to remember: KEEP THE ENGINE COOL! Run a 180 deg F T-stat, and make sure the Rad is up to do the job. Also, please run synthetic in these turbo engines...Mobil 1 10W-30, its the best. There are a few other mods that have not been entirely proven yet...but look to give another good bit of power...those are the XT6 Throttle body, and the Spyder Intake manifold. Archive please!