WJM

DONT use a true 9.5:1 engine under that turbo stuff. You will ideally need to use raceing fuel to keep it from destroying its self in the high end. Detonation. Up until now, I had not been needing the high end of my engine...now that I have a super ultra sticky grippy suspension setup on my wagon, and a more proper intake and exhaust (exhaust for now, still needs work) I am using that high end. Past 4500 on pupm gas, 93 even, if you have the timing to where you have power down low, you wont have it up high, detonation city. Sounds kinda like and anti lag system if you set it too low so it wont detonate. Now, with race fuel, competition 100 ($4 a gal!!!) you can set the timing quite well, and it pull like a mofo down low, then it will drop off a little, but pull all the way to 6500 pretty strong. Myos. and Miles Fox has taken one of those carbed blocks and turned it into about 8.5:1 or so compression, with pulls way better and you can still use pump gas on it. About those copper HGs...http://www.headgasket.com/ You cannot get their sealer as of a few months ago due to some EPA guideline(s)...but that was then, maybe something has changed. I had sealing problems...but i think the main causes were 1: not enough TQ on the head bolts, and 2: slighty warped heads that warped even more dueing and overheat when the sealant crapped out due to not enough TQ. Make sure you get your heads trued/machined up. absolutely no wareped heads. Thats how my 9.5:1 engine has lasted this long, it has a fresh head machine job. These are Gen2 heads. I have a set of Gen2's if you are interested. But you will have to get them machined. There are supposed to be Nissan injectors that will work that are larger...ive tried them, and the ECU doesnt like thse injectors. Cams...there is a huge difference between non turob and turbo...well, the turbo ones are more suited to the turob car and it will make more power with the turbo cams. The 87+ cams are supposed to be the best stock cams to use, so you've already got those. 15psi is about you max on the stock turbo, IC or no IC. Now i had a semi built EA82T...Delta cams, freshly selaed up, extreamly high flow intake and exhaust...all on a stock turbo shortblock. the thing pulles to no end from 3k to whenever i decided to shift or let off. Pegging the speedo was no problem, and it didnt take all day to get there either. I would STRONGLY recommend sticking with the stock EA82T shortblock, just go with OEM SUBARU turbo headgaskets, machine the heads, get a pair of Delta cams made (677-260 is the part number I think, http://www.deltacam.com/index.htm), and go from there. Good luck!

*drool*

Email comming your way! BAM! Sent.

I know that about the mounting. The means of zero back pressure behind the turbo, i know that. Now...before the turbo...thats where I have not gone before. I was thinking...make the pipes from each side the same size as the actual port...then size it down at the "Y" to the turbo. Also.......massive idea I have had for a while about reducing turbo lag for large turbos....Jet engine exhaust nozzle. hehehehehe.

ROFL

Looks great! Thanks!

new plan........adapter plate for the EJ engine, and a stock USDM EJ205 to start with.

Fuel is not a problem. Detonation is not either with the PROPER fuel, as i have read, our pump gas is the worst on the planet. Tell me more about this water injection....please?

Yeah, you'll have that sometimes. Its a great setup for the low end. With my higher compression, i really have to use race fuel to utilize the high end.

Yeah, just depends on what all you need. I could send a complete car. its like...a 1988 or so, EA82 powered wagon. 4wd, 3AT pushbutton. Runs....it over heats. needs a new rad I think. I can throw that in if you need it. $500. Then we got to ship it. lol Otherwise, id have to strip another car to get all the 4wd parts. According you the engine in your sig, it should be a pre 1985 car, but if i remember, its actually an 85+, but with an older engine in it. PM or email me if you want. wmaham1701@hotmail.com

Yes indeedy. Ive been searching fora good while for a turbo and IC. That DP i made is kinda killer. Too much flow on the little turbo tho. Boost creep. I had a thread about that. didnt you chime in?

Yep. Ive been looking for one, and a stock WRX intercooler as well....and Ive been looking for a Downpip for one. But then again...with an adapter plate...and a complete EJ20....

Email sent to both. rallyruss: i know that theory for low speed power...but it really really makes the engien suffer at the high end, which is where these engines should really be making the power. Its fine for the average street driver, aka non perfomance minded "normal" person, but for some one like me, who is searching for power power power...seriously, look at the peak TQ, 2800 RPM on the turbos. Thats pretty low. The EJ engines have it around 4000. Granted our HP is up there, 4800, and then 5200 from 87+. The TQ drops of past 2800, I would like to move it to the 3000-4000 range, and push those HP figures up as well, not the RPM way, but just increase the figures. That and a DP, I am sure that we would pick up 10-15 HP alone from those mods. I do have the parts to make a Jig (extra turbo, heads, block, engine crossmember)...its jsut that I dont have the time, and I dont ahve a welder. I can get the pipe! Thats about it.

Alrighty! Thanks Marnix, you are da-man!

Thats exactly what I discovered. Evidently the comb. chamber is pretty efficient, since I was far away from the det. limit on those first 2 runs. the last two....i was right on it. And you see about 10 WHP difference.

Has anyone ever attempted to make one for the EA82T? If not, and even if so, I am going to make one. I had a factory one fall apart on me, and it looks like its about 1 inch pipe. What a work art to reduce performance. Tips? Suggestions? Past experience?

mine dont cross at 5252 either. the second session, the RPMs were correct.

Hmm....maybe i should look under some hoods.

Basically what I want to know...are they all the same from the EJ15, to the EG33? Does auto or 5/6spd make a difference? Would an 02 EJ25 bolt on to an EJ18 trans in a 93 impreza? or vice versa? what about the EG33, and EJ22, can they trade places, bolt right up to the trans? Ok, an now for all those EJ20s, K, G, 5, 7...etc...would those bolt up the same to any other EJ trans? Are all the engine and transmission bellhousings the same from 1989 to now? (since the EJ was introduced) Ive got some crazy idea...and i dont want to go and buy something, and find out I cant use it...so, please, i need some accurate information....Thanks guys/gals!

calebz: yep, I had to go all the way there, just to get it! LOL He is cleaning garage these days, and offered it to me. josh long: from what I know of our systems, it does the same thing...but there is a limit on how much the ECU can retard the disty. If its already retarded all the way, and its still detonating, there is nothing it can do about it. Down low, i think the engine can do 30 deg, and put out a ton of power, but up high, its gets tricky and wants 25...then 20. Then its not putting any power due to the speed of things, and the lack of an IC, lots of compression, and crappy crossover pipe....that and cams and other things that need sorting before we can make power up high like the EJs can. Oh, the knock sensor puts out AC voltage according to knock. more AC, more knock, and vice versa.

I have not tried to mate one to a spyder, or a standard intake. I guess its time for me to find one and try! The Euro ECU gave the Euro cars 136 HP and about the same TQ as opposed to the USDM 111-115 and 128 or so TQ number. The one i got uses an EGT sensor instead of an O2 sensor. I will plug it up tomorrow and see what happens with no O2, and with an O2, and see if it works the same...or something. I hope it doesnt fry it.

the last 2 pulls we had te car hooked up with one of those probes that read rpm from plug wire. it was ACCURATE.

Hey Warp3, how about I give you a set of tires for your RX, and i get to use that Gtech for a bit?

Dude, this the the latest mustang AWD dyno. Its got the electromagnetic brake system on it, so it can hold the engine at any RPM.

What is a REAL dyno then? And, woops, i posted in the other thread, where does mine cross at 5252? I dont mean to sound like an a$$, but im just really curious.