WJM

ATF is the fluid it usues. I would fluch the whole system, with the front of the car in the air, that way if there is any air in it after the fluch, you can easily work it out by turning the steering wheel, but there will be no load on it. I think the air is causing the noise. cavitation. air in the system. Ive had that before.

same as stephenw22, but my connectors are black and the wires are brown.

ive seen several with ICs under there, and had no problems. They use round pipe, skip is the only one that I ahve seen to still use that aluminium peice. Skipper? pic? SubaruTex used round stuff, but now has a spyder intake, pics? and some others i have seen that rally crossed/autocrossed or 'es' I for one, have not replaced that peice. And I always shut my hood as gently as possible.......

HAHA! It IS too much flow! Thats what I was trying to get to. I think I will throw a stock DP on it, that is cut at theend of the cat canister and the cat is gutted....thats what I had on the RX before. it didnt boost creep. But it was still an AWESOME sound and performance increase over what came on it from the factory. Its quite alright Skipper, we are all wrong at one time or another. You just happen to be right more often than not. I think the wastegate arm travel is the limiting factor. I was thinking, you could slot the bottom wastegate...so that when a secondary wastegate engages, it wont be fighting the first one, since its already bottomed out. Or somthing like that. or you could shorten the arm on the wastegate, athat the actuator arm attaches to...or something.

Dennis ex24: Sure shoot away. Meeky Moose: Cams from Delta ran me about $120. For the pair ofcourse. Leone400, and everyone else: Lets please not be so quick to dismiss anything. We dont want to scare the guy off, expecially if his findings are true. We can use that as a template to go by, and possibly engeneer a cheaper way to make such power. I found one: Cams+intake+exhaust. Cams being the real key. Cams boosted power WAY more than the 9.5:1 did, on pump gas. While we all would like ot see the dyno results, and the car in person, we all cant for some reaosn or another. Also something else I have learned....our EA82T engines respond well to the intake and exhuast mods...but anything bolt on (IC, larger turbo, etc....) seems to have only small increases, while on the EJ engines, it provides a larger increase. Ive nver had more power with running more boost. In my first boost experiment, 8 psi felt the same at 10, 12, and 16. Same now with the 1986 GL-10. The RX, felt the same with 8, as 10, 12 and higher. The difference came in the cams, and opening up the intake and exhaust to as little resistance as possible. Doing those single two things, and in combination with the cams, made the largest increase of all. Now, you can bolt on all day with an EJ engine, and still outrun an EA82T, no matter what you bolt on it. Now, you can build an EA82T all to hell, and outrun most bolt on stuff for EJ...but you start seriously building an EJ...then the EA82T is jsut too far beind. I find that the lesser weight, and higher output with the three keys installed, can outrun a stock WRX. But a modded WRX...with more than 230 hp...its starting to get expensive, and most of us cant afford that. not even I. Lets not be so qucik to call BS and rub it in. lets be patient and see how it all transpires.

that is certinly true. I was told 20 more hp, and about 30 more TQ from Delta cam, since my cams are a TQ grind. But it sure felt like the power was double that of the original engine. Given the org. engine was ragged out pretty bad and the new engine was sealed up, and had proper tuning. Id say I had about 180-220 at most on my RX. It was faster than a stock WRX. And sure did handle better with the suspension that i had on it.

no i did not use sucha tool on it skip... I will check that line and possibly replace it. I still dont get how it does it on two cars. one 1989 and now the 1986. This is only by changing to that down pipe. I made no other changes.

First, its an H6. Flat 6/horizontally opposed 6.... anyhow, that engien is supposed to be one of the most reliable engiens subaru ever built, next to the 2.2L engine. it runs a timing chain, which seems to last forever in toyota engines. (22R) Im sure someone more qualified to answer your question will reply soon....

there is nothing but that line from the turbo to wastegate. I never messed with it. The RX always had the stock solenoid setup. Still...i dont understand how mine is boost bleeding. it only does that with that DP...and ive checked the wastegate actualtors. they are fine. I guess my DP design is flawed. Too much flow!

Skip: two turbos, two wastegates. same issues on both. with stock exhaust, 7~8 psi all day long. but with my custom DP, both boost creep. and both cars had the wastegate/boost control as it came from the factory. and what do you mean exactly? you mean, actually hooking up the wastegate? or what? its hooked up.

ok, no problem!

if I may....a pic from NC's snow.

the 9.5:1 setup seems to be reliable...18k miles so far, over the course of a year and some. I need to update my sig. Ive never heard of anything other than 9.5:1 or 7.7:1 on an EA82 from the factory...but EA81 and older, all kinds of things. So no prob for the heads up!

Skip: i am using the factory stuff. No modifications intended for increased boost presures. Same for the RX. the_bard: Yes, it keeps creeping higher. In the case of my RX and the GL-10...it stops creeping at about 16 PSI. I want it at 8!!

anyone?

If you use a MBC, ignore the boost solenoids. Just put a piece of line from the compressor housing to the appropriate inlet of the MBC, then to the wastegate. Yes, it perfectly fine to run an open down pipe. I did it a couple years ago with no problems. I did make one...and I am getting ALOT of boost creep. See that thread again, i edited some things again. BTW: its 2.5 diameter pipe. If you drive normaly, on stock boost, but higher octane fuel and as open of an intake and exhaust as possible...your MPGs will go up. But lead foot always decreases that figure.

ummmmmm........i guess I will be changing my rear diff asap. BUT...the rear diff its self has a TON of play...while the play from the center seems to be nill....hmmm.. Oh, and different tires seem to be the thing for EJ trans, with thier clutch packs and Viscus center diffs. Remember, outs are open in the center. BUt i get what you are saying.

Run 93 octane, and hook those solinoid lines back up. and take a look at this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/usmb/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9994

Ok.... That is the down pipe i made. Now, ive checked the waste gate travel on a turbo with out a pipe, and then the turbo with the DP on it...the wastegate is NOT in anyway shape or form...being interupted with its opening/travel. I am getting boost creep of up to 16PSI with this DP...it did the same on my RX. I figured it was the cams/ultra free flowintake combo i had on the RX....but its doing the same with stock turbo cams as well... ok ok...heres my new intake for it too. Any ideas on why it boost creeps so bad?

That or pug wheels. That racing fuel is also what makes a HUGE difference with power output. My 9.5:1 turbo engine feels like a regular stock turbo engine on pump gas....but with racing fuel, and the timing advanced to where it shoudl be, it screams. I think a VF22 should work great on that thing. I can also get some 15 inch pug wheels. you could slap Kumho Ecsta MX's on there and have gobs of traction with a 4wd setup. Again...i know where a cheap donor car is...and a FT4WD trans and matching diff.

JWX: My GL-10 has a 3.70...with a 3.90 diff. The XT6 trans that was supposed to go in it, was 3.90...I didnt know the XT4 turbo FT4WD trans were 3.70....and Ive never gotten time to change diff. XSNRG: Ive got matched tires. Just need to switch that diff. Turbone: 2 peice? Huh? The driveshaft is a 2 piece.

repalce the seals on the pump.

Ok, my GL-10, 4wd converted. When coasting, and I get back on the gas, the drivetrain loads up, and there is a very loud clunk/clanck from the drive tunnel, all the way to the back of the wagon. Its done this with two different driveshafts. My Racer RX did it too....until it was too loud for me to hear it. lol Any sugestions to what it is? Repair manual says loose bolts. Thats not the case. What is excessive gear backlash? Thats the other thing it states.

myossfeece: ALL nonturbo EA82s are 9.5:1 compression.

looking thru that post reminds me....someone mentioned XT6 throttle body. its WAY bigger than the 4s. Pleadies has an ER27...and in person, its unreal how much bigger they are than the regular EA82 thr. bods. WE need some! EDIT: I certinly dont know anyone personally that has an XT, that is modified.