WJM

I know that on 85/86 with the flapper MAFs, you can unplug the overboost sensor and run as much boost as you want. On the 'hotwire' MAFs, 87 and up, there overboost is built into the ECU. It receives the signla from the MAF about how muc air is entering, and about the 9psi mark the signal from the MAF becomes a cetin level, and the ECU starts timer, and at the end of that, fuel cut. I may be wrong, but thats what Ive heard. I know that...hmmmm. I just tohught of something. Too bad the RX is not here, id try it. It seems like the waste gate plumbing is more complex than 85/86 cars. Hmmmm, re route the stuff. do soemthing. *rambling*

well, let us know what happens in the rain at high speeds! I think the red is 5 hp.

the camber plates for the leones appear to be the plates I was talking bout making and wleing on the lower crossmember, to move the lower control are out. I dont know if those rear camber plates would work. I know the fronts do.

note the bluc square: "Weld-on-mounts to lower / inner control arm connection point." Ehh....I got a suprise for ya'll Pleadies had a set of MRTrally camber plates that he didnt like and I aquired from him. They were on his legacy (1998 or so?) So...I have bolted them up to the RX. Its not hard. you have to drill the holes out a tad tad bit, and thats it. They bolt right onto the RX struts. Which are the same for any Leone/Loyale car. Pics soon.

that and the exhaust routing for the turbo...there is no place for the exhaust to route to on that side...i think

GL-10 could do 116(2wd auto with stock engine). But then, in its current state...no faster than 104. RX 110....but it was on 3 cyl.

check out subspeed.com. He also got some JE pistons. The company is in CA. They are supposed to be just about the best.

the MPFI engines will have that rear PCV too, the way to tell the difference between them, are the pistons. N/A pistons are mostly flat, and only have two small crescents in them, for valve clearence. Turbo pistons have a rectagular recess in them.

As the engie is still running and there are no problems, and i havent had time to...there is no write up. Simply, All I did was swap the turbo shortbock out for a non turo shortblock. Be mindful of the engine temps, run a 180 deg t-stat, and be mindful of the fuel you use, and you will have to retard the timing in order to prevent the engine from detonation when you run regular pump gas. I always run the highest octane fuel from Shell, its been the best fuel. You will ahve to block off the rear pcv vent tubing, as the carbed and SPFI blocks dont have this vent.

I got mine form NAPA, Delta Cams, and Gasket Works USA. Oh, the engine from a local subaru mechanic.

Delta Cams. Torque grind. Thats 20 more HP and tons more TQ.

i think id like to look into getting a pair of those FT4WD auto trans.

Ok, lets have a look at this VIN as see whats up... JF2AX7528HG310419 And now for the muffler. Im getting 21.7 MPG now. I HATE it. I was getting 29MPG!! Reason: I installed a factory 4wd exhaust system to pass emissions. Now, usually, the max allowed CO readin is 220, and the last time i got it inspected, the reading was way up there (sometihng like 218 or so), and I had a straight thru muffler. IE no backpressure. 29 MPG. Now...BIG backpressure, stock muffler, quietness, and pass emissions with 81 CO reading, and LOW LOW MPG now. So, Back pressure, low CO, and the sence came to me. The muffler restricts the air from flowing out so quickly, that way the air stays in the cats for longer, giving the honeycomb and the exhaust gases more time to interact, much longer, therefore the air comming out of the cats, are cleaner than before. Thats my spin on it. I'd still rather get more MPG tho. I AM switching to a 3 way cat on the GL-10 when I get some more $. The RX will get a 3way, as its sitting here waiting to be installed.

supposed to be a torque grind. But a 20 HP gain as well.

No. Awaiting CU HGs from CA. I also have much work left before I put the engine back together. Finnish cleaning heads. Dissasemble heads. remove all gaskets and seals from the engine. Finnish cleaning engine. Inspect engine. install NEW gaskets and seals. reassemble the heads. Receive CU HGs, and lighten'd flywheel. install those components. Install cams. Install and swap over thingys for the spyder intake to go into a non spyder car. Take old engine out. install new engine and swap some more things over. Run engine. Burn those rice boys in their boy racer rice cars to the ground. Oh, and THEN tune the car in. :banana: :banana:

Enjoy! http://free.inkfrog.com/pix/wmaham1701/deltacam.jpg

so what is shot peening? For those of us who dont know...like me, for once.

Sounds like a plan.

You can get pistons from JE. I dont think that there will be any kind of crank avalible...except stock. You might could have some place balance it, or do something to make it stronger and lighter...but i seriously doubt that there is anything more avalible over stock for the EA series engines. Rods....you might could find something...but Ive never looked. I've left the bottom end alone on all of my engines.

I do not know of any differences in cranks and rod on EA82s or others.... Under the right setup, care and everything, turbos are much better than N/A. Its just alot of trouble turbo'in a nT car. Most people are not that adverture'ous. Some of us are. I for one, would do it...only if I had a donor turbocar to work with tho.

From what I have seen, all EA82 blocks are the same with the exception of the rear PCV vent between the MPFI/TURBO and the carbs/SPFwhich dont have them. As for forged internal...I have not heard of any. The only real difference bwtween a MPFI turbo engine and a non turbo MPFI motor is...injectors, pistons, and a few small things on the outside.

Either bad oversteer or bad understeer. The rear wheels would be turning slower than the front.

Its FT4WD...the difflock is off. I still have everything hooked up. Driveshaft and all. AWD/FT4WD is da bomb....even with an improper diff. So far, as a data note, I have noticed no difference in car/drivetrain behavior from the RX vs the GL-10 with the XT's FT4WD with a mis-matched diff.

no problem. i imagine a properly maintained DL/GL/Loalye/Leone 4wd manual, EA82 with fuel injection, and freel flowing intake and exhaust, SPFI or MPFI, would get over 30 mpg. Even with FT4WD. I imagin the turbos would'nt get higher than 26. As for carbs....I ahve no clue. I hear of them getting higher than 30. As for my turbo, it got a SPFI shortblock under all the turbo stuff...so I get higher MPG than other turbos, plus Ive got mods on it. After I get it to pass inspection and the RX is done, I'm gonna try to get to the 30 MPG mark...then pass it.

sho is.