WJM

I put the pins in....still the same. Everything is tight. Driveshaft inbalance?

I guess it was an option. I know of several GL-10 turbo 4wds that dont have Air.

idling? Well, i tihnk that goes out the window here...on the way home yesterday, I was going down hill, and turned the engine off and put in the neutral...no engine noice, but plenty of some other noise....Im going to knock those pins in. I hope thats it.

I think he means the air supension Corky...maybe? Speaking of that I did find (and now own as a parts car, but theres not much left...) a 1986 XT Turbo 4WD, 5spd with air suspension. Strange huh? I thought it only came on autos.

Even on stock cams, I stayed above 3k. If im in traffic, it'll be there too....but who says I'll be in traffic? lol

oh no, like the inner CV joint(s)?...That I just remembered that i forgot to punch the pins into them...???

Ok, first issue...on de-accel, with engine dragging or not, there is this rumbling sound/feel to the whole car. I cannot locate it. It's almost a grinding rumble at higher speeds. It goes away below 30mph. It shifts like new, and everything feels right about it except on the de-accel!! On accell and cruising, there is no such feel/sound. Ok, issue numba 2...I just found out this is an extreamly rare trans out of an XT (ot maybe the XT with this config is extreamly rare?). An XT Turbo with FT4WD. With the spyder intake too!! I have located the complete engine too...minus turbo mind you. Does anyone know the final drive ratio on the XT Turbo FT4WD trans? I orginally got two XT6 FT4WD trans for the conversion, and I got a 3.70 rear diff form my parts car (XT turbo, 1986, 5spd but with air suspension!)...and later traded it for a 3.90 to match the XT6's FT4WD trans...since this second one (first one has the shift forks in the trans messed up) is out of an 87 or better XT Turbo w/FT4WD, I dont know what the ratio may be? 3.70 maybe??????? And dont tell me to find the car and look under it...its gone already:madder: Bummer. It was a vitim of Rust and several 9MM bullets. (not my doing tho) If no one knows the ratio, how could I tell if its actually a 3.90 or 3.70 trans?

I learned it form webpages, other USMB members, SUBARU information stuffs, my own experience...etc... I eat, breathe, sleep, and live SUBARU. SUBARU runs in my vains. Longitudal engine and AWD, Turbo, and the best engine layout in the world. Bam. Perfection. "SUBARU's All-Wheel Drive system is perfectly symetrical, Symmetry creates Balance, Balance creates Control."

Marck: You can take the AAV and bolt it right up on the spyder and run wires for it, I believe. It seems as if the XT6 stuff is better. Strong plate and clutch, that way you can cope with more power. A lighter flywheel allows for an engine to rev faster, it has less rotating mass to rotate, therefore more power to the wheels. You can turn an EA82T FW down...but you can do the same with an XT6 one, and it will be lighter, yet just as strong. Any 4wd/turbo car clutch set will interchange with another 4wd/turbo car. I can use an XT6 package on a 2wd XT turbo. Or on a GL 5spd D/R. They have the larger spline on the trans, and the clutch discs are the bigger 8 inch versions. 2wd non turbo have the smaller discs and splines. (that I know of) The Spyder intakes flow ALOT better for turbos. If you look at any EJ engine, you will see a similar design. During the time of the spyders, the EJ engines were in development, and if you look at any EJ engine, you will see an intake of somehwat similar design...but even more efficient than the EA82 Spyders. The Spyders also came on Turbo XTs, but are RARE. I've got two from a Non-Turbo, and I know where one is that is still bolted to a known good Turbo motor. I plan on getting the WHOLE motor, and dropping it in the RX.

I didnt ask for specifics...i was aiming for price. He said something like a 270 duration...? Or something... BUT... i got this email a few moments ago... "Will - Our best cam grind for a stock EA-82T engine is our SB-6000. It has a duration of 266 degrees and a lift of 0.400". This is a torque grind, designed to provide more acceleration. The cost is $210 per cam, exchange. You will need a Hi-RPM valve train to go with these cams and we have that also. The price for the springs and retainers is $160. - Carl at PAECO (800) 326-640" I am thinkign $130 for BOTH cams sounds better, and I bet I can get springs too for much less...maybe. I'll call delta again this evening and get specs.

The center diff package. On EJ cars, the center diff is a better than LSD type, called a Vicous coupling. It keeps the front to rear split a constant 50/50, but lets the front and rear travel a different speeds when you corner. The autos use clutch plates/discs to do the same thing, but there are different duty solenoids that allow 50/50, and 90/10, and I think there is one other, for like 70/30 or something...BUT the WRX's have a constant 45/55 split on their autos. On FT4WD, its an open diff. I could pull up the front ebrake, and do a RWD burnout...or if I had a rear handbrake, I could do a front, with no/little center diff damage. This would destroy an EJ AWD trans. On 4WD models, its in 2wd until you pull/push something to push a mechanism inplace to tranfer power to the rear, as a constant 50/50 split. Its like a tranfercase on a truck. On FT4WD, when you puch the difflock button, it lock up the center diff, being just like regular 4WD. Does than ans. your question?

on my GL-10, 1986 mind you, with the green connectors connected, and you turn the key on, it cycles the fuel pump. Other than that, I dont know what it does. My trouble codes still flash whether they are connected or not. I am not sure what it does on 87 plus cars.

thanks!

I called Delta... $130 for a pair, talked to a guy about a rally type application for the EA82T...3k to 6k (as in RPMs!)...sounds good...

on 87+, the green connectors are underhood at the firewall.

on 85-86 EA82 cars, they are under the dash beside the fuse pannel, and if left connected, it will trigger the ECU light, for some kind of starter issue. Otherwise, no harm.

I got 24 mpg in my wagon, when it was 2wd auto. Then 29 mpg when it was 2wd manual. Then I got 29 mpg when i swapped in the 4wd rear, I was draggin the diff and axles. Now Im getting x mpg now that the XT6 FT4WD trans is in. (x being the new mpg figure! I am expecting 26 or better) I know of a 1996 Outback, AWD EJ25 phase one that gets 26. My RX barely gets 20-22 mpg. But then again, pay attention to the engines. Non stock (GL-10), and stock (RX).

Anyone.......?

I seen some WRX and STi front clips on ebay a few days ago...they are mid 90's tho.

RIGHT! I was wondering when someone would catch that!

when I launch forward on gravel it feels like 70/30 or 60/40. But then again, weight is being trans. off the front, and with an open center diff, the power goes to the place of least resistance...so that may be the case. Autos on the EJ cars have a soleniod that give it 90/10 when cruising.

I remember it was someplace in CA that we got them from...it was about a year or more ago that someone sent in a CAD or something, and the prices were like $75 a set, and there was some kind fo sealant to go along with it, and...I jsut dont remember the site... Does anyone remember?

My GL-10 with a certin timing setting has tons of lowend...but looses high end. At about 16 deg, its optimal. good low, good high, excellent mid, and little detonation in hot weather. IF...I had better cams for high end, and an IC, and 100 octane fuel, and DIS, AND a spyder intake, the engine would be perfect. Oh, dont forget the CU head gaskets.

I was thinking more on the lines of.....Liquid Nitrogen.... Now that should certinly keep the intake air charge not just cool, but COLD. *shiver*

Myxalplyx: Ive got 205/60's on my stock 5 inch wide rims. I think I might coiuld suqeeze 215/60s on there...but it'd be tuff. Even so, the tire profile would be more rounded on the outer edges, more so that the 205 already is. But then again, I am running about 43 psi is each tire. And Subarutex: I have the same Q's!