WJM

Try to copy and paste the links in new windows. I cant even view it from clicking on it. Copy and paste. The smoke was from coolant/oil leakage...that and I was turning 7500 on a few places.

http://www.subaruworld.net/rxracer vidoes.

Ok, found some options.... with rallyruss's honda spring upgrade for the rear....and some new options for impreza stuff on the front, by using XT6 5 lug conversion.... would it be worth it to take this RX, and turn it into some kind of ultimate G puller in the turns? I think ive got the power department covered, and drivetrain.

ummmmmmm..........standard torque? LOL. I just made them a bit more than snug. Worked fine on both cars.

Dude...ive done what you are doing. Quiz away!!

Well, it actually made it. GOt there and bled the brakes twice nad the brakes were ready. After 2 bottles of stop leak, the cooling system stabilized. After a QT of Lucas oil stabilizer, the oil leak was legal. I only got 2 runs in tho....i have both on video, but unfortunatly, the AWESOME launch wasent on tape for the second run. what a bummer. Ive got...one good pic. And a few others to show before the event. Ive got the two vid files, they are 18mb each...if anyone is interested...I'll have to uploadthem somewhere. I dont ahve a place to do that. Copy and paste the link for the pic. The engine bay: http://www.geocities.com/wmaham1701/100_0015.jpg The 1st section of the Down pipe I made: http://www.geocities.com/wmaham1701/100_0033.jpg The RX in line for tech: http://www.geocities.com/wmaham1701/RXline.jpg

No oring'in fer me. oddcomp: I used the Permatex Ultra Copper RTV. Supposed to be good for 700deg F. archemitis: Maybe so..... Skip: Maybe so as well. When i take the engine out, I'll see how far they CAN run in the block, as opposed to how far they run in when holding the head on, with no gasket. And i used the stock .043 thickness. MilesFox: My GL-10 has gone 17k miles with standard turbo headgakets, and the high compression and turbo...no problems like I am having with the RX engine, stock bottom end and turbo....so must be some error of some kind with the mating of the head and block somewhere along the way. oddcomp: I wonder where i can find studs??? Nuts are no problem. The car made it thru autocross tho. Vids and pics soon. Edit: Ok, posted that. Now for some info about what Im gonna do with the RX...since the GL-10 is no longer a platform for modification and testing since I got the RX...the RX will get some experiments going. I will use factory turbo headgaskets when I get a pair and just see what happens. I'll also....ummm....oh, Oil cooler. I'll install that too. Lower it too.

Miles: Copper headgaskets. I was not aware of oring'ing the cyls. SVX: To the mating surfaces.

problem 1: Upper strut mounts. ....... Problem 426: rear track is different? Solution: Its do-able. Take GDB STi and sit it beside an RX Coupe. Strip both down. Attempt to fit GDB suspension to Leone. Get creative, time to modify.

ya know, now that i tihnk aobut it........ its kinda dumb that an engine i actualy spend time and money on lasts about 2 days, while an engine i threw together at the last minute jsut for the heck of it lasts 17k miles and a whole year.

GL-10 in sig gets 28~29.

USMB does not support this thread. Lock please. No flame wars.

WTF did I do wrong? The RX is overheating, thtere is coolant in the oil, and now is way down on power. Oil is vitually running our from under the heads. I applyed sealer to directions. touqred to specs. heat cycled. Used proper oring for oil passage. CU HGs are not supposed to blow. No leak. why they leak now? I followed directions!!! Was this the ONE time I was supposed to make my own rules instead of following everyone elses??????????????? WHY???????????????????????

spend $2k, and the engine leaks to no end, overheats for no reason, and then doesnt...and for some reason, wont cooperate. when you need it to the most.

Miles, 21361 is the silver filter. SFI line code. The Gold filer is 1361. FIL line code.

Well, that darned cork gasket looks to be leaking like a...well, alot. I was thinking on dropping the pan, and using a rubber gasket if I can find one, or using some high temp RTV. I hate this, its brand new and I didnt over tighten it. (the engine is in the RX) QUESTION: Can I drop the pan on this EA82T with the engine still securely bolted in the car? I've never done this, and with all my vast experience with these cars, this is one thing i've never done. And since im up here, celebrating t-day, with no shop, its not like I can go outside in the cold and execute this. So im hoping someone has done this before and can give me some advice. Yes, this is how you do it, or no, you've got the lift the engine up or something....would be great. Thanks guys/gals!

Yeah, spark could cause this....no, i dont have an A/F guage, although Id love to have one. But, I dont see how spark could cause this. I have NEW: Cap, rotor, accel coil, Beck/Arnly wires, and NGK R plugs. The engine temp rises by 10-20 deg F when power drops off, and then hops and skips when I dont let out of it. Last i remembered...the leaner something runs, the hotter it runs. Recently, I took out and cleaned each individual fuel injector.

I wonder if anyone is willing to build these for those who are interested....Like me...who doesnt have time to go to radioshack and get the parts and put it together. :-\ The connctor there...which color wire does what? Yellow input? Red 12v input, and the green as ground?

Ok, the GL-10 in the sig...1986, FT4WD, Turbo EA82. (Originally 2wd auto) Not surging, but skipping, hopping, and cutting out, and leaning out. The Fuel pump is 3 years old come this march. Its already got a brand new fuel filter...and its still doing it. So...under accel, before boost, it cuts, hops, skips. Under boost, it doesnt do it as much, but worse and more violent than not under boost. This problem has been getting progressively worse, over the last couple weeks...but only showed up like this on tueday...ironicly the day the RX roared to life. Jealousy rage? So...bad O2? Flapper air flow meter going out? Fuel pump starting to fail? Or is it just jealous of the RX? I dont think turbo soobs should be jealous of each other. But seriously...what could it be?

I use the NAPA Gold filters, made by Wix/Dana corp. DO NOT use Fram/Penzoil filters on turbo cars. They will come apart. I had one do that. Puroilator, K&N, Mobil, and the dealer filters are a fine alternative to Wix/Dana filters.

The wiring loom connectors. Other than that....if you take the plenum chamber off of the bottom section you need to remember how the thing came apart, VAC lines galore, and PCV routing as well. The throt cable position is different, and i think that you might have to use a different anti pitch bracket...like, one from and XT that mounts on the trans instead of the engine. Other than the harness connectors, i dont know what else is different...like say the TPS, coolant sensor and the such, I didnt go that far. I just saw the connectors, and switched back. When i aftually get around to doing the conversion, I will be simplify'ing the heck out the vac/PCV lines and all that stuff. The engineers at SUBARU put in alot of hours comming up with the design of that intake system, everything is compacted under the plenum chamber. That cold idle thingy is underthere too, i think it will work fine.

So, after much $$$$, much delay, much work, and some aggrivating small things...the RX roared to life on this cold morning. My new DP wasa bust, needs more machine work...but the intake work great. The camber/caster plates work wonders for handling...those Delta cams sure do a number for the neck during acceleration! Skip's Lite Flywheel and the New Napa Clutch set for the XT6 is just great, revs great, and the engine comes down just right when shifting. I also added an Accel coil, and new NGK plugs, great stuff. Unfortunatly, the Spyder Intake was pretty complicated, so the standar intake is installed for now, the spyder conversion to come sometime later. Pics, HQ pics, to be posted sometime this weekend!

I'll get pics. I wish i wouls ahve took some before I put them on the car.

seems like 60/40. My wagon looks more like 55/45. I bet the RX is 65/35 with nothing in the rear, being all stripped out.

Well....I know that I cant figure out which switch is what on my XT FT4WD trans either. I tried all three, and none of them are the reverse lights! I know which one is the diff lock tho. The one on the difflock side! I'd like to know this info as well....