WJM

Welding that plate on makes the turbo sit higher...but not by much. Since I am getting a TD04...I'll now need one of those pipes.

Hey hey....another thread just for me..err, all of us EA82T guys. Ya know, i think there is an aftermarket fuel rail system for the EJxx engines...I think....with the right backyard equipment, we could have a home made type system, for next to nothing...other than the cost of some quality parts, such as fuel injectors and a regulator.

I must point out, that NONE of these problems seem to be present on any Impreza...... Also on a note...the Legacy Platform is now built here, in the usa, along side of some other GM products. Suzuki, Isuzu or so as well. While the Impreza is built entirely in Japan. Or am I wrong here?

I also had the same boost creep incident on my wagon...it detonated like heck cuz of the pump fuel, high compression, and high temps. It didnt rev any further. I would HIGHLY NOT recommend running more than 12 psi on a non IC system, especially without all the other factors checked out, clean fuel system, open intake and exhaust, high quality oil and a BOV/BPV fitted... As far as max boost on these cars, i think that 14~15 is the max reliable limit for the turbo. As far as the rest of the engine...if its in great shape and taken care of in other regards, fuel, cooling, oil, i think it can handle 20 psi for a while....as long as it breathes correctly, fuel is delivered, spark is on time, etc. etc....But i ahve not fitted a turbo and done this yet, this is just a speculation. As far as oil goes, thats really a personal preference. But face the fact, synthetic protects way better under pressure. I dont ahve any leaks....but i do have some kind of oil blowing out somewhere around the turbo, it may be PCV relate'd, or otherwise....but i dont have any physical leaks from seals...yet. Its been going for 19,000 miles now on synthetic, just did the 4k mile change friday morning. Bottom line is that I would not run more than 12 psi on a stock turbo and intake/exhaust tract. With open'ness...and a proper IC-BOV/BPV setup, and a slighty better exhaust crossover pipe...14~15 is the max id run on a stock turbo...unless I had 5 laying around as extras, id run 17 and a very large IC core.

A truce. Amen.

email to you.

I would keep a spare of all the major hoses in the back, along with 1~2 gallons of coolant...or just replace all the hoses now...thats what I would do.

Its questionalbe. Do what you feel is right, and you will never go wrong. I think that Emily will have the right answer tho...from CCR.

I was about to ask that!

wait! That should not have worked! 85/86 is a completely different system (but still somehwat similar) than the 87+! The 85/86 uses a vane/flapper door style air flow meter, while the 87+ uses a Mass Air Flow sensor - MAF. Hm...ive got one sitting around, maybe I should try that, sicne my Euro ECU didnt work. Then again, you could have a really early 87 that was still a vane style system.

Yeah, I remember reading that...I dont think it works anywhere near as well as a BOV. Ive also seen non Jap cars, and many other Jap, Euro and US cars with that little thingy on the throttle close stop. Mine doesnt function at all, not on the RX either, to keep the throt. partialy open for a sec....

I think that the turbo stuff will replace prettymuch all the original carb stuff...its just more wires to run! Ive not done that conversion...Yet. Please please please please pretty pretty please...tell me more and/or post a pic or a few of the header pipes and 3" dump....and if those can be found easily in AUS.... And check out this thread: http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10738

Its the thing that burns!! Well, it burns when some 42,000 volts jumps a gap and ignites it...well, it will ignite it PROPERLY when the fuel is mexed correctly with the air, and the volts jump that gap at the correct time. The more correct it is, the more power you make...or more MPGs you get. So here is the deal, US spec 87 octane will ignite and burn faster than US 93. And 89 doesnt ignite quite as fast as 93, but burn faster than 87. In my owners manual, its recommended that 91 or higher is used...thats for a stock turbo engine. Well, for ALL EA82 engines for that matter. So here is the deal...detonation/knock/ping/pre-ignition is the ignition of the air fuel mixture before the volts ignite it, OR the volts ignite it, and the burn completes way too soon...such as before the piston passes the TDC position. Ideally, you want to draw in the mixture, then have it compress...but before the piston reached TDC, the volts jump, igniting the mixture, the piston compresses the burning mixture to accel the ignition, and as the piston gets to TDC, the explosion has it greatest forces as the piston starts on its way down, and the mass presure is now there to push the piston down the PROPER direction...and not before. You can still not have knock and it be at max pressure before the piston starts down. Power loss there. So now, its up to the timing. Too much and you loose power, MPGs, and engine life. Too little, and you get incresed emissions, less MPGs, and more engine life than with too much timing. Just right, and you've got a little choice of ranges...one for max MPGs, and one more max power. In order to get max power...you need to have the proper fuel. Engines are tuned to run on certin fuels. After readgin this page several times, and seeing real life results with regards to intake ari charge temp, different fuels run thru my 9.5:1 turbo engine, and seeing other stuff happen...I firmly belive what is said about the fuels in the great ole USA. http://www.spdusa.com/new_page_4.htm Now that brings me to the point. 93 is fine for the average mostly stock EA82T. Ive ran one with semi-racing cams, and it boost crept to 15~17psi, and not a peep of detonation, even with 25deg BTDC. All of this with no IC either. Just the most open'est intake and exhaust possible. No octane booster either. So if you all take the time to read that...i think it applies to our tuning situation with these engines as well. Since the Dyno Day, ive been running nothing but 100 octane competition fuel, unleaded. Where i used to have to back off in the high end due to detonation, I now lay into it all the way to redline. It now no longer detonates under the 10inches of mercury vac adavnce, and it pulls like...like...well, A TON in the low end of things. Pure power from 2000 to 6000 now. Were as before, it was only 2400 to 4200, and even that was tricky, i could not use WOT. Now I can. For a stock EA82T bottom end...with proper timing adjustments, and other mods, I think that the engine would greatly benefit from using this fuel. Especially under high boost situations, high load at low engine speeds, and in warmer operating conditions. Now here are my recommendations for an EA82T user in search of more power (basic low budget power that is): Run the highest octane pump fuel you can find...usually 91~94 at any gas station. Ya know, that Premium stuff. MAF adapter from expressautoparts.com APC or equivilent 3inch ID cone filter to stick on that adpater, right on the MAF (or flapper door style on the 85-86 turbo cars) *NOTE: on 87+ turbo cars, that assy mentioned above will fit perfectly in the spot of the factory airbox, if a 1985/1986 "MAF" to turbo pipe is fitted to the 87+ system. I did this on my RX. YOu should rotate the assy toward the front of the car 10 deg with all the pipes/hoses underhood warm, so they wil flex some, and begin to rest in thier new positions. END NOTE* Open the exhaust. Atleast make sure that you have a ture 2 inch ID flow from the downpipe back, and a glasspack/cherry bomb or some kind of stright thru muffler is fitted. Its is recommended that a Subspeed, or Skipster stlye downpipe is found, and 2.5 inch exhaust is run back, WITH a 3 way universal cat fitted ofcourse. We want to make sure there is a future enviornment for our children to drive SUBARUs as well, dont we? The turbo crossover/up pipe assy is in DIRE need of better flow characteristics. No solutions have been made at this time. R&D has started. Fuel system: its just fine stock, as long as the fuel system is clean and everytihng is working properly. Make sure to check fuel pump, injectors, pres. reg., and Evap system is all working properly and within specifications. I've ran a gallon of Laqure thinner thru both cars, and it worked wonders for clearing crap out. People think I am crazy for that...Oh, change that fuel filter when you do that. Cooling, water and oil: Flush the system properly, and use a new rad if the current one is in question. a good one can be had for around $100 at any auto parts store, or online. *NOTE: Use a 180 deg T-stat!! END NOTE* I have not had a problem with hot oil...YET. I have not had a clean run during the summer time to record temps. It would be recommended that under hard driving conditions, an oil cooler be fitted. I have a source for the thermostaticly controled sandwich adapters. OIL: MOST IMPORTANT!! Run a known good synthetic oil I run Mobil 1 10w-30. I have not tried Castrol, Valvoline, or any other. All I know, is that I trust AMSOIL, Mobil, Castrol and Valvoline, although my preference is Mobil at this time. DO NOT RUN CONVENTIAL MOTOR OIL IN THESE ENGINES! Especially 20w-50 in the wintertime, I lost an engine and a on separate occasions turbo to that. DO NOT RUN FRAM OIL FILTERS, they will come apart internally due to the high heat of the oil. They are made of cardboard and glue, while Wix/NAPA Gold filters are all metal construction. Use OEM SUBARU filters when in doubt. i change my Mobil 1 and NAPA Gold filter every 4k miles, and the oil is not black...its still clear and not far off from looking like it was just poured into the engine. Overall: Use only OEM SUBARU parts, especially with the gaskets. EXPECIALLY HEAD GAKSETS! Use the OEM Turbo head gaskets. Ive never had a problem with those. The NAPA ones...they blew in 4 days. Use NGK plus, an Accell coil is recommended, I use Beck Arnley plug wires, dont use the NAPA Beldon or Mileage plus wires. NAPA Echlin Cap and Rotors are good to use, I used BA this last time...it was in stock! A BOV is HIGHLY recommended. I have mine rigged to recirculate, instead of venting to the atmosphere. It keeps the turbo spooled between WOT shifts. Most impotantly, it increases turbo life. When you let off the gas when the turbo is spinning (anytime the engien is running), the turbo is pushin air into the engine...when the throttle closes, that air that its pushing has no where to go, except back out the way it came...there for it puts the compressore in a nid, it wants to reverse, while the turbine on the exhaust side is still going farward being driven by the exhaust output...so, it binds it up. Bearing score'ing happens. Life of the turbo is decresed with each shift, or closure of the throttle plate. With a BOV/ABPV fitted, it allows the air to escape, instead of letting it attempt to reverse the turbo and bind it up. A BOV/ABPV opens when the throttle plate closes and creates vacuum, and that vac. from the intake manifold opens it. Boost pressure alos helps open it. I think Ive convered everything....it too late to tell now. Experts: Have at it! What did I miss? Newbies: Read on! Everyone: Feel free to chime in suggestions, Im always open!

Hey Dennis...Ive only had one engine self destruct....and that was when I didnt know what I was doing. Still...if I'd had the proper sealant and the heads true'ed up...id still have the RX running. Then again, life is full of Ifs, hads, woulduve coulduve... DJ, i officially invite you to an Autocross event. http://www.ccrsolo2.org/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=66 Pics, and we can dyno it the next day, or the day before. What do you say? Oh, I found a part number for the RX front 'air dam'...and its over $300 from from subaruparts.com. Hm.

I think a CO@ spray on an IC would be better. that stuff gets cold. But...its more expensive.

I see many many levels....some levels i want to see, but cannot.

Ok, so either you reused old intake gaskets and didnt TQ the bolt properly on them, or you are running insane boost leves...something like 70 PSI. Now I am seriously thinking something is a-miss here...

Thats awesome! Which new ones have it? Do you happen to know that?

its BIGGER! But it wont bolt up to a stock intake. I dont know if it a direct bolt up to a spyder intake yet, Ive got some I will try it with, but Ive not had time yet. I also have a free EJ22 i am playing with that I got from the same place.

I have not had the re-TQ issue on my wagon, i just TQ'd them them here they are 19k miles later no problem. WIth the RX...I think I should have done that I guess, expecially with the CU HGs.

75 more hp at the crank and I can do what Dennis said cannot be done.... Just messing, but Id still like to do that. I do have ideas...the cams, crossover and down pipe, smoother intake piping, and turbo to throt. body piping...oh, a secret I stumbled upon, XT6 throttle body, and....well....what else is there...maybe an IC would add 5hp at speed...but i dont know about all that IC stuff yet, i need to do some studying on that.

Skip, as usual, rock on!

I bet so. Rice boys, excuse me, Import Tuners would be all over that stuff. But i would just run my EA82T with out the Tbelt covers...like i have always done, on both my cars.

XT6 flywheel is the same bolt pattern as all other EA82 flywheels. I think its a little lighter tho. maybe 2lbs? The NEW clutch and pressure plate is much better than anything else SUBARU had, so use it. I have that on my RX, along with a Skip Lightened Flywheel.

I got a steady 28~29 mpg on my GL-10....until my RX blew the HGs agian and i started driving it like it was a rally car...