WJM

Does the STi do 147+ in reverse? No. It is NOT a Porsche transmission. There are still a number of 6MT parts that interchange with the 5MT....

I thought the same stuff as well....but then I actually started playing with EJ engines. EA82=EJxxx Why? How? What are I smoking? Both engines blow headgaskets....both engines require 'building' to take the power needed for racing...both engines require SERIOUS engine management for racing...both engines have the same reliability side by side, when you get them apples to apples (aka both engines equally new and equal power output per displacement). As for smoking...I'm not smoking anything. I dont do drugs. I do EA82s.

comes with pin and clips....rings are a full set for 4 pistons.

Scwheeeet. THAT is art.

EJ's are for those who dont know any better.

you can visit subaruparts.com for pricing.

Its a helical. If you've ever driven an 05 or 06 STi...you will know those are worth their weight in gold. the 04 STi and all the JDM Version 7 and version 8's ahve the SureTrac...its nowhere near as good as the helical.

I already have an AWIC setup on my RX....I'm jsut upgrading the core unit its self with something that was more 'designed' for the car. Currently I am using a no reservior system to save weight, and i dont see the need for an extra tank. The SCCA class I run in deems ICE as an illegal method of cooling down the water/air in the system. I have a 4GPM pump on constant run, and an exchanger core that is approx. 20 " wide, 18" tall and 1/2" thick...aka the stock A/C condensor core mounted in the stock location. Intake temps are within or AT ambiant temp during cruise, I've seen the temps go as high as 140*F...but NEVER beyond that. I have an IAT sensor, the open element kind, right after the current IC. All of that will change in the future when I install this one ofcourse.

Will probably go on when I do the final install for the MegaSquirt and its systems.

Correct. WRX center diff is 1:1...but the output shaft GEARING is for some reason is 1.1:1...and rear diff is 3.545. The 'old school' 3.900 ring and pinion is the SAME as the 'new school' R&P sets...use it. It's been done more times that I have eat at Subway (WJM eats at subay 1~2 times a day, and has done so for the last 4+ years).

Front and rear STi diffs (6MT) will NOT fit 5MT or 4EAT Forester. why? Front: The SureTrac and Helical 6MT front diffs are much narrower than the 5MT and 4EAT front diffs. They will not drop in. MUCH custom machining to be done to make it fit correctly. IF the front diff carrier unit in the 4EAT is the same as all the 5MT 4WD/AWD transmissions...then go get a Helical or clutch type front LSD for your average WRX (pre 11/2003 production date) or 2.5 RS, or 5MT GC8/GF8 WRX/STi. Rear: The STi's have the R180 rear diff. Everything else has the R160 (including the ALL of the Gen1 Gen2 and Gen3 EA cars) the R180, while VERY similar in external size, its only about 1 inch taller, and bolts right up to the driveshaft and diff mounting...the axles are the difference. The axles for the R180 are MUCH larger. You will have to get some custom axles made up. I have tried to make hybrid axles taking R180 peices and trying to make them work on R160 axles and vice versa....NONE OF THEM INTERCHANGE. Custom axles will have to be manufactured. IF you get the axles, then you can use it. HOWEVER...the stock STi rear diff is a PEICE OF JUNK! It doesnt work at all. Its a DOWNGRADE to install one in place of a VLSD, and a DEFINATE stupidity move if you replace the R160 clutch type with the STi rear diff. the ONLY reason I would EVER consider installing an R180...is if I were going to be rally/drag/roadcourse/autoxing with oever 800 hp to the ground. The R160 can take whatever you throw at it, even up to that power level. Its perfectly fine. Go get a Kaaz/Cusco/stock RX rear clutch type for R160 and install that. MUCH less PITA work and you will get desired results.

Dealer. .25 and .5 oversize is avalible. I am sure the sizing is in MM only. You will need to bore accordingly, and rings are also avalible as well. Pistons, SPI: 12006AA060 - STD 12006AA070 - 0.25 OS 12006AA080 - 0.50 OS CARB&MPI: 12006AA090 - STD 12006AA100 - 0.25 OS 12006AA110 - 0.50 OS B: 12006AA030 - STD 12006AA040 - 0.25 OS 12006AA050 - 0.50 OS Rings: 12033AA000 - STD 12033AA010 - 0.25 OS 12033AA020 - 0.50 OS

No such item. You ment...AEM UEGO? Innovate LM-1?

We actually need a DRFPR. Especially when the AFR's are as rich as they are...11.5:1 is max power/reliability on turbo subies. I've been logging 8:1 to 9:1 under boost before the boost creeps past 7psi. Anything leaner is danger under boost. Anything richer is wasting power and fuel. On the same day, same dyno, within 5 minutes of each other, there was ZERO change in power output and AFR stayed the same. Keep in mind this is with STOCK injectors. With stock injectors, there is absolutely NO reason to change the fuel system, either regulator, pump, rails, etc. Its all perfectly fine from the factory. However...when you step up to...say...1000cc injectors...THEN you might need to worry about a RRFPR, rails, pump...etc.... Our systems are super similar to the WRX and STi. Those systems are pefectly fine, STOCK, up to 860cc injectors and more than 30psi boost/535 awhp. The only reason I'll be dumping the rails and going with my little POS setup is to simply clean up the engine bay, and allow more flexibility to build a new intake manifold, or install the spyder w/out having to use all the complexness of the spyder systems. Otherwise, my current setup is all stock.

That reminds me that I need to put my ground where it *SHOULD* be when the new sensor gets here tomorrow.

That is very interesting. Thanks.

SUBARU socket.

Thats normal...JWX has the same setup. Those narrow band gauges are junk. Seriously. I'm not knocking your stuff, but they are worthless.

Yep. Well, I dont consider what REAL tuners use for tuning big power cars ricer parts.

Yeah, i had to DL that to install the thing...I got mine slightly used. The gauge was new tho. As for the aging sensor part....if it didnt work correctly, I dont think AEM would make it that way....they dont exactly make cheap stuff. *shrug* I do have a full catless exhaust. 2.5 all the way back from the TWE downpipe.

You need to use the clutch to go from high to low. HOWEVER...the 'shift on the fly' saying means that you can do it while in motion. The typical 4WD systems on trucks that have Dual range require you to come to a complete stop before going to and from low range. Sometimes I even had to shut off the engine and have it in N before I could get my Dad's Ford in low.

VERY excellent. I've had alot of Pro Road course guys comment on how nice the wheel is.

compromised structual integrity and its not allowed in the class I run my RX in.

The heater is always plugged up. It has to be, or the system doesnt work. Its really simple...12v switched for each the gauge and uego controller, a ground....plug the sensor into the harness (has a locking plug on the harness) and put the gauge somewhere....done! Its a Bosch sensor.... I cant find the link, but each sensor has its own special resistor calibrated to the sensor....idk, i cant remember the details. I thought it was strange as well, but Doug here at Top Speed is an AEM Master Tech and Tuner, and he said it works 100%. We install them all the time and they work great. We've logged them on dyno runs against the DynoJet's wideband(The onboard Dyno wideband sensor), and they read within 0.1% of each other.

Bump cuz I was looking for that link today. Horray for the search feature!