LosDiosDeVerde86

this reminds me of a funny on/offtopic story. when i worked at the local independant Good Year (Wexford Tire and Service) there was a guy that came in saying that every day at exactly the same time on exactly the same hill in the morning on the way to work, his check engine light would come on. we checked the codes and there were none reading currently, or saved. it ran fine, emmisions were great, tires were aired up, gas cap was tight and held pressure, no overheating, etc. What was the problem? Think about it, then reaad the answer below. Nice bimmer. my best friend's been through 3 of them. his first was a 1984 535i, his second was a 1992 (i think) 535i, and now he has a 1995(ish) 525i. he loves those stupid cars. He killed the first one when he forgot to turn on a road and hit a roadsign that punctured and tore a few engine components:banghead:, he killed his second one after sliding on ice (nevermind he was high (which is why i wasn't talking to him at the time)) and so far his 3rd one is a tank. Answer to the Check Engine Light story: Sunglare through the window in the morning bounced into the car and illuminated the CEL space.

my legacy's 4.11. some are 4.44. your forester is PROBABLY 3.90

hmm....i know that when i hook up my flux capacitor to my to green day connector, i throw a light every time. (that green day part is a line from House Arrest)

lthrpup37

thanks. i'll look out for that. i actually tried to get a hold of you outside of the forum earlier after i talked to the dealership, but you didn't answer my yahoo request.

UPDATE:: i just got off the phone with subaru and they're saying that the problem lies in the Duty C and the tranfer case housing. Quoted price: $892.48 sound reasonable?

they might be rated similarly power-wise, but i bet if you look at a dyno graph, the vw has a longer spectrum of higher power that the forester, which peaks out around 4500 or so, then begins to lose power. so, the forester might get up to 165ftlbs but it's only there for a span of about 300rpms whereas the vw will be around 165ftlbs for a longer time, which makes it feel faster and more spunky

wow, how'd you manage that? figure out a way to throw a light when it's locked in 4x4?

HEY, THAT'S ME!!! ...and probably why i'm in this mess to begin with

i've done a few flushes. do you think that they'll recommend a flush with the replacement?

would the valve part being stuck cause the light to flash and the FWD fuse to not work? i would guess that the FWD fuse part would be true because if it's stuck, it can't separate....and i guess that it would make sense as to why after i pull out the fuse it works well, until it gets stuck again. but wouldn't the FWD fuse light come on even if the valve is stuck?

yeah, thats why i'm saying that its electrical because it acts as though it loses power.

what are the torque readings?

with my description, what would you say? keep in mind that: when there's the malfunction, it acts as though there's no power to the solenoid.

do you think there's any chance of them saying that i need both because they "like to do them together"?

hey man, if you do it, and it actually works, let us know, it'll be a cool trick. there's just some non-believers here.

$10 for the beebees? sure. then if it doesn't work you're paying for someone to dismount and mount 4 tires to empty the beebees, then you're pay for a balance that you probably dont need, because any good shop will rebalance tires after they'ce been dismounted.

yeah dude....there's gonna be. you can't expect to put tank treads on a sedan and expect the ride to be baby's-butt smooth it's more than likely the tread on the tire causing the vibration than the tire being out of balance.

why dont you just get your tires balanced..

what the hell are you talking about....

yeah...funny thing is, i probably could go for a new tranny....my car's very "tired".

i really wish i took pictures of my car. this is all i got...

i'm taking my legacy (1996, LS, 2.2, 115k miles) to the dealership on thursday. my theory is that it needs a new Duty C solenoid. Why? - awd goes bye bye and wheels get locked into 4wheel. - HARD binding in turns when this happens - when i put in the FWD fuse it sometimes doesn't work right after i install it (which leads me to believe there's an electrical problem) - after i have binding the AT TEMP light does the "16-flash-boogie". So, i think i'm pretty on top of what the probem is, but i'm not telling the dealership that i kno anything aside from the symptoms. i'm going in as a no-nothing customer because i want a real diagnosis instead of just going in and saying "replace my Transfer Duty Solenoid" and have that not be the whole problem. so, what do you think i can expect the dealer to tell me?

i've seen people de-bead a tire with a back-hoe before... but you dont have tools... take it in and pay up. you can't do it.

they're not promoted as an ice tire. outer edge for handling, inner for water, center for snow. looks like this: =\^/= =\^/= =\^/= =\^/=