Will Smith

great thought! I'll check on that tomorrow.

I just installed a rebuilt an engine for the Brat, darn thing runs fine. Only problem is the coolant goes into the crankcase almost as fast as I can pour it into the radiator. Any guess as to what went wrong? Thanks for your thoughts.

Good news-bad news. I have arranged for all of my materials to be delivered. Means I do not have to get my stuff, also means I will be unable to deliver rims. I am sorry bout that. BTW did someone put a spell on these rims to keep them in Reno? Will

well I might be going that way again within the next couple of weeks. I'll see if I can remember to tell you. To anyone else out there, I may have lots of room, even for a car east-bound only.

I know someone, just how happy $$$ will you be?

I have never seen a hatch or brat with power windows, however, you can make it work. The regulators are almost identical, one arm is just longer on the hatch/brat doors. If you lay the regulators out side by side(two door- four door) it is very apparent what you need to cut and weld. You can wire the remaining two window switches on the center console to power door locks.

your wagon looks to be an easy fix if you use the tailsection from another undamaged wagon, hatch, or Brat. If you do not want to fix it someone else here may want it -if you keep the car(yes that is posible) you can settle and keep the car as part of the settlement. Be my guess you can keep it for around $150-200.

I would be interested in your opinion as this subject has come up on another board I frequent. There was no follow through on the other board, just a claim made.

That looks like a nice Brat. I think you have some pretty cool plans for it. Looks pretty straight from here. Warning the following is my opinion:I would paint it first. I believe it would make a bigger impact than a lift. But that's just my two cents. Anyone else?

Always seems when someone is right I have more work to do.

I just pulled the panels off from behind the taillights and used an ohm meter to find the proper wires. You will need a 3 to 2 converter. The converters are marked as to the wiring.

that is a great idea. To calibrate your new face to your rig I can only offer the following: it takes exactly 60 seconds to travel one mile at 60mph. I use the yard sticks on the interstate. I know you can figure out other speeds and the elapsed times, but high school was sooo long ago I have forgotten how.

can't help with your prob, just want to thank you for a great headline!

sometimes a bad hub will give the same indications.

that thing should be in a car show!

I use it. You cannot charge by looking at the sight glass, must use gauges. You put a R-134 fitting an your suction port and use a 134 hose set up. Yes it is flammable but if that stuff catches on fire you got lots worse problems, like the rest of the car is on fire. Buy it here: http://www.foxtoolsupply.com/HC-12a.htm

Let's see now: it ran fine before you changed the thermostat, and it had problems immediately afterwards. sounds to me something was disconnected or broken. I would really search around the area I was working that is...if it were me.

at the top of your forum page is a link to USRM- repair and mod. go there and then go to the engine area. you may find what you need.

my expansion valve always froze up after my system sat open that long. Might as well replace that and take all the other good advice offered.

congrats Guy, looks like you did all the good!

white is best. black shows all imperfections, blue is transparent and will take a lot of paint to cover. get the $14.95 automotive spray gun from harbor freight. i use them all the time.

Oh yea, the yellow stuff is affectionately called "Gorrilla Snot".

the windshield cement will work down to about 20 degrees below zero, then your trim falls off. An automotive paint supply will have double sided emblem tape, just make sure both sufaces are clean before application.

great news. I figured that would work.

thanks for the heads up.