Will Smith

This Brat runs and drives well. 5 speed transmission w/new clutch disc and pressure plate assembly. Extended drive shaft w/replaceable u-joints. Replaced front and rear seals on the engine, heater hoses and bypass hoses. Passed Clifornia smog about 500 miles ago. Will smog again if buyer is to register in Cali. 132K miles. Looks like near new brakes, excellent tires, new upholstery including new foam in the seats, carpet and padding on the floor. The dash has one large crack, now has a rug on it. The paint is a really nice orange color(paint code #547), no wrecks I can see. Has parking lot dents. Rust in the bed on the drivers wheel tub and under the battery tray, both areas are repairable. I have found no other rust on this vehicle anywhere else. Unmolested wiring harness. Stock radio with 200 watt sub behind the passenger seat, I use a FM broadcaster with my CD/mp3 player, works well. New batteryNo AC or power steering. No computer or O2 sensor in the system. Has the jump seats, headreasts, seat belts, ect for the bed. Glass, all lenses are good. Tailgate trim is in good condition. $sold I posted under vendors because I bought this Brat for resale. Required disclaimer: Everthing expressed here is my opinion, as is where is sale.

The difference is around 5%. If you are close to an interstate with mile markers you could test for the difference. One mile in 60 seconds is 60mph. Dink around until you get a 60 second mile then you can figure the difference. Don't forget to add this percentage to your gas mileage.

Amen! as a veteran of hundreds of salvage auctions---buy flood cars for sheet metal only.

they fit just fine, they also ride better and last longer too.

if I'm not mistaken your choke pulloff is an electric heating coil. check continuity of the coil check for power to the coil

2am and high centered on a trash can...now that's funny I don't care who you are.

make sure the motor mount bolts clear the cross member. The cases stick tight together sometimes. I have to use an old wood chisel to get between the housing, just work the crack around the case about a sixteenth at a time.

pretty sure it does, sending units may be different but I doubt it.

Some background: this conversion was an 83 4wd GL 10 digital instrument cluster to an 83 4wd GL analog instrument cluster.I never hooked up all the wires. Just enough to get me down the road. You will have lots of wires left over. After you pull the instrument panel you will see three bundles of wires and a green plug all used by the digi dash. My diagram will indicate color and from what bundle the wires come from. The bundles will be numbered from left to right ie: the bundle on the left is number one; center is number two; bundle on right will be number three. The large green flat plug is the furthest on the right. The wires are labeled with the primary(most) color first. Any color after the primary indicates a stripe. As an example a WHT/BLU is a white wire with a blue stripe. I have identified the following wires although I have not figured out where they go into the back of the cluster: 3rd bundle: BLU/BLK LR Door indicator RED/GRN Diode (darned if I remember what this is) GRN Park Brake indicator 2nd Bundle: GRN/BLK RF Door indicator RED Park Lamp There is a white male plug I believe should be pluged into the white female dash light plug. My Brat is currently disassembled so you may have to figure that one out for yourselves or wait until I finish.

I had to do that. Just make sure you wipe off the grit before you install it.

My kinda fix!

If I remember correctly, there are no adjustable parts on the rear suspension. Only things I can think of would be the swing arm is bent, wheel bearing is shot or strut is bent. All easy to find at the junk yard.

I converted my air ride to traditional struts, found out the springs on the air shocks were softer than regular strut assemblies. Darn car would bottom out all the time until I put regular springs on the struts.

I never tried it. Be nice if it worked.

I assume you changed both fuel filters also. You might try taking off the gas cap when this happens, if improved, a vent line is plugged. otherwise I'd guess pick-up screen in the tank in clogged.

If I remember corectly, there is a solenoid which prevents you from moving the gear shift unless the brake pedal is depressed. the jiggle you see is the solenoid dragging on your out of adjustment gear selector. I think.

need to take your mechanic a beer. there is lots of room for "play" on that bushing. unlikely the rear dif and related parts are causing the problems unless you are in 4 wheel drive, my guess is the problem is in the front end. just my 2 cents.

as long as the compressor turns easily by hand and the inside of the intake and exhaust ports does not seem dusty(aluminum dust), you should be ok.

It's been a long time so bear with me here...seems like we used to replace an altimeter on the passenger side of the engine compartment, bout the size of a small box of matches, black with one vacuum hose leading to it Seems like this was on fuel injected engines. Never did figure a way to test them, just put used ones on there until the light stayed off.

same here, inboard joint.

white smoke means coolant. could be a head gasket or intake gasket.

other ways of getting your vehicle on a dolly: ratchet strap block and tackle and my favorite a come-along

when this happens to me I also get black dust around the castle nut, this means I have the spring washer on wrong way round. Be sure the wide part is towards the castle nut, narrow side to the cone washer.

I for one would appreciate everyone coming up with a design. I am currently painting a Brat with approximately the same silver and blue as seen in above posts. I have tried to come up with something besides a factory paint job(boring). a few tries of mine: Anyone else?

Thanks for your help. I took the valve covers off, fiiled the radiator with water. The only place I had any water come out was through the crankcase drain plug. So I assume the problem must be in the head gasket. When the engine runs the water pump must have enough pressure to push the water into the oil pan. Just my guess, will know more later. Thanks again.