Will Smith

the remaining part should be on the shaft snug but should come out with some kind of a hook. I know you can do it just keep pluging away, cussin at it always helps me.

if you are talking bout the outboard bearing, that's easy. surrounding the output shaft/stub is a retainer which holds the seal. the retainer has spokes/fins radiating from the center. there is a bolt which keeps this retainer from turning, remove the bolt and the retainer will unscrew and slide off of the stub. your bearing will now be able to be removed.

my van came with one. I took it out and could not tell one iota of difference.

i agree with the warped rotor. you can have them trued at a machine shop or most auto supply stores.

the filler neck will be under a part of the core support. I assume you could trim to fit.

they just might cut you a good deal if there was shipping involved. Ask em, the worst they can do is turn you down.

Bob I would not trust anything the auction company says. Go look at this Brumby first. As you've noted the listing states the vehicle is a GL yet single headlamps. I've noticed the vin number is incorrect-the 10th letter from the left should be a letter not a number. At a salvage auction here in the states this vehicle would bring around $200 US. Another $100 if it was started and did not smoke.

the last brat tumbler assmy. I pulled had four 10mm bolt heads.

My fuel pump and carb always tick. I just never notice it unless the idle is really low or the key is in the on position.

A lot of places will not even stock a rebuilt pump because a new one is so inexpensive.

that is a 70 watt sub under there. it does have a gain control on the unit. you may have to remove the seat to see it.

I'll bet it is a stone between the rotor and another brake part. try going in reverse for a little bit see if that brings it out.

I took my ignition lock cylinder in and the lock smith rebuilt it for $50. If you are going to do the junk yard thing already mentioned it is easier to replace the whole steering column than to try to replace just the lock cylinder.

i would love too, But, both brats are torn apart for various reasons right now. If I can get one together by spring I'm there.

under the floor mat in the cargo area is a key hole shaped cover of metal about six inches long held down by one phillips head screw. Lift the cover and you will be able to see the top of the sending unit. remove the 5 or 6 nuts that hold it down and lift the sending unit out to inspect the filter. really easy.

don't know how to put it in readout mode; can only suggest to check the relay under the drivers seat. box is 3"x5"x1" with two plugs of 20+ wires each. check to be sure the connectors are pluged in tightly.

I used STP for engines (really thick) with some success in my my manual trans.

you can also use a acetylene/ oxygen gas rig and coat hangers to weld on your Brat. very inexpensive that way. Easier to grind down the welds also.

that is really nice. you did a fine job of fabrication there. Don't think there will ever be another even close to it, truly a one of a kind. Congrats.

X35 THAT was it. thanks for the memory. Did you use grade eight or grade five? I can't remember that either.

we used to do something a bit different, it has been a while (10 yrs) so I do not remember much of it. I do remember it DID work with no come backs. Here goes: when we found a head bolt stripped we found we could use a standard thread bolt just slightly larger than the metric bolt. we would drill out the hole and retap for the new threads. I think we used grade 8 bolts. I do not think any other problems were encountered. It is what I will do if I come accross a bad head bolt as you mentioned. Just a thought.

i think you did the conversion the best and cleanest way. congrats.

this has been the subject of very heated discussion just recently. there are adjustable proportioning valves available for aftermarket apps. just as you describe. Your prof has good reason to wonder and with comments like "the rear wheels lock up first" and "kinda squirley" makes me wonder also.

just old race car knowledge: if you do it you have to have an explosion containment system. vis: if you lighten it you weaken it and it my blow up.

sounds like a bad O2 sensor to me.