Craven

http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/we...t_Nbr=99004.731

Glad to see you got it running. Now find youself a timing light and see where timing is, then set it to specs

I don't recommend this. But back in the old days, Used car dealers would put sawdust in trans and rearends to quiet them down before a resale.

When the pressure stops you should be on tdc, are you sure you are finger testing #1 cylinder. Front plug on the pass. side?

No

Yes, you might be on the exhaust stroke, not the compression stroke. The rotor should be pointing at #1 plug wire on the dis. cap.

Yes the #1 piston is at top dead center, but it still could be 180 deg. out. You have to make sure your on the compression stroke. Take the #1 plug out and stick your finger on the plug hole and rotate the engine with your socket untill you feel the pressure push your finger off the plug hole, then look at the timing marks on the flywheel and 0 the timing mark. The engine should be on the compression stroke.

I didn't write the article, I found it on another car site. But it does anwser some questions on why some people have problems and others don't.

It wasn't ment to be a flame or anything. I just thought this would help people on the ones to look out for. It just goes to show you how all this off shore stuff works. A company builds up a good name and then the bean counters say " we can get these things made in Bumfuk for 90% less and throw our stickers on them and no one will know, just think the money we will make".

Found this on another site. MSD/Accel round coil info As most here know, I am in the ignition system business. That said, there is information I'd like to post on coils. I used to recommend MSD Blaster II and III coils for my HEI conversions. They used to work well. These coils used to be manufactured at Andover Industries, Andover, Indiana, and were of superior quality. In early 2000, production of RED MSD Blaster II and III coils, p/n's 8202, 8203 and 8223, was moved from Andover to a company in Mexico, Pro-Bobbin. When this happened, I started to experience HEI module failures for no apparent reason. Others did as well, and MSD box failures when the RED Blasters were used. It was so untraceable that the problem would only be found by changing the coil. The cause was the insulation materials between the wire windings was deteroratinf and falling away from the coils, causing a layer shorting of the coils, and change of resistance/load on the module/box and failure of same. The 8200 chrome Blaster II coils remained at Andover, and had only the regular failure rates one would expect from a mass produced coil, functioned correctly. Sometime last year, production of the 8223 RED Blaster III coils with the HEI terminal,was returned to Andover. When I finally figured it all out, I switched my recommendations on coils to Accel round Super-Stock, made at Andover. Good quality coils, problems stopped, up until about a month ago. IN the last month, numerous Accel coils, 8140 and 8140C, were coming up either new defective or had operating issues like missing, erratic idle, no performance. This was traced to a move in production in the Accel coils. Accel was sold earlier this year, off the Dana Corporation, and the Accel coil production was moved form Andover to Taiwan. It was these Taiwan Accel coils that were having the issues. I have vended 19 Taiwan Accel coils in the last month, had 16 of them defective/develope problems with under 2 hours run time on them. No more Accel recommendations for me anymore. To identify different Accel round Super Stock coils: Andover Accels have segmented crimping at the top of the case to retain the top, with raised sections around the top. Taiwan Accels have a clean full crimp around the whole circumfrence of the top of the case. AVOID THE ACCEL TAIWAN COILS. Coils and their origins: MSD, 8200, and now, 8223 Blaster II, III series, Andover, good quality 8202, 8203 Blaster II series, Pro-bobbin, Mexico, avoid Accel 8140/8140C, 8145/8145C, Taiwan, avoid A good black coil with the same specs as the good Andover Accel is the NAPA IC12, same specs. AVOID the lesser cost NAPA IC12SB, Mexico made, low quality Crane PS20, PS40, Andover, quality PerTronix, NO, Taiwan, reboxed with USA logo, avoid Mallory round coils, no info Jacobs coils, overpriced Taiwan, avoid Hope this info stops someone from getting a problem coil.

I know your just going out to see what the car will do and have a good time.But Easing or Sliding the clutch is harder on it than dropping it. But like you said that is harder on the rest of the drive-train. Thats why you want to leave at a high enough RPM to break the tires loose just a little, to take some of the shock out of the rest of the parts.

Somewhere between bogging the engine and excessive wheel spin. Your car and track condictions dictate this. Start on the low side and keep increasing the launch rpm untill you get the quickest 60ft time. Go out and play on the street, to get an idea. But remember the starting line at the track, should have more traction.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/134929361/143408244PhombE

It is true we're not building a lense for a telescope. I'm just talking about a glob or a hump that you could do without. Now if you had a ridge across the middle of the stone, over lapping sandpaper or a line of glue, you never would get the head flat.

Skip A sample of it you can find in any hardware store, they use it for sanding drywall. But it is too small 4 3/16 x 11 1/4 for what we need. That's why in the shop I worked in, used the 20" floor sanding disk and taped it around the edge. I don't like the idea of spray glue, I have never been able to spray that stuff down smooth (probably me), but why have a stone that is flat to 1/10,000 of inch and then spray on something that would very by whole lot more than that. Craven

This would work to cover your milling/sanding granite table also. The self adhesive backing would help on keeping it farely flat and uniform over the surface of the stone. http://www.onlineindustrialsupply.com/sandpaperrolls.html

Not if you use a sanding screen or mesh as I stated. It has gaps Like a household door screen, that will hold quite a bit aluminum particals before you need to clean it. Then you just vacuum with a shop vac or what ever.

The grade B is all you need for what we're doing here.

Enco has them also and free shipping;) . http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INLMK3?PMK0NO=407251Go with the 12" x 18" and one of these http://www.aaabrasives.com/shoponline.asp?point=moreinfo&catid=155&id=2699&pRange=0&iCurrentPage=2 and tape the edges. That would give you lots of room to do the figure-8 action.

Another happy camper.

We used that system years ago, on two stroke motorcycle/snowmoble heads and jugs, works great. But we used 20" dia. sanding mesh off a floor sander and taped it to a hunk of glass.

This has nothing to do with bearing size. He got lucky on the gear spacing. If a Nippon rearend was built to a far greater quality than a AMERICAN piece, than it wouldn't need shims to mesh the gears properly. But both use shims to get the gears aligned right.

Clock http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=26603

Sea Foam Deep Creep

http://www.seafoamsales.com/buy.htm