Craven

Looks great, how's it feel?

What? You never drove a car with a pipe wrench steering wheel. It works fine, unless one or both fall off. Then it gets real exciting.Craven

I should have some anwsers tomarrow afternoon. It finally quit snowing today.

Anything in a pinch!!!

So did you ever run it at the track?

Well the tire test won't be today. Damn near a freaking blizzerd around here. Maybe tomarow if it quits snowing and blowing.

The springs worked good didn't they;). I tore the faceing right off a new clutch before, but never did one in like that.

Brian Nice looking Brat you had there. Your 60's were almost an 1" taller than 225/50/15 24.73" v. 23.80" in the Mastercraft line anyway. I'll find out tomarrow if it dosn't snow to damn much tonight. My friend that sells the tires, also has a snow plowing business. Glenn

My friend owns a tire shop and the only tire he has in stock right now is the 205/55/15 which is the same height 23.90" but about 1/2" narrower than 225/50/15 . Here is the tire I'm going to test. http://mastercrafttire.com/us/en/ProductDetails.asp?ProdType=Passenger&id=204&title=Passenger+Tires I like the looks of the Avenger GT better, so if this tire clears the fenders with room to spare, I'll order the 225/50/15 GT's or the P794 205/55/15 Click on the pass car icon to see the other tires I'm talking about.

Are those the tires your running on your RX with pug Wheels?

I'm doing about the same thing. Only with 15x7 wheels with 1" less backspacing. I'm getting a 225/50/15 Mastercraft GT tire mounted tomarrow to do some testing. I'll post my findings and maybe I can give you some insight in how much clearance you might have. Craven

Or a thin film grease and not roll it over until you put it back togeather. Then roll each piston up and wipe off the grease.

I've been thinking about this.(I know, not a good thing). Now if you park a car outside and not run or turn over the engine for quite some time. Wouldn't the same thing happen, being that some of the valves would be open to let the outside air into the one or more of the cylinders?

What is MMO? Duh I got it.

It should work just fine. The only thing is you will have to use a new style coil wire end on it. They sell new for around $80 US so you should be able to get it for half that or less. Craven

Accell Super Coil #140001 and Accell Super Stock coil # 8140 are two different coils. You have to watch the MSD coils you listed also, depends on the part #. Maybe this will help. (Taken from another site) MSD/Accel round coil info As most here know, I am in the ignition system business. That said, there is information I'd like to post on coils. I used to recommend MSD Blaster II and III coils for my HEI conversions. They used to work well. These coils used to be manufactured at Andover Industries, Andover, Indiana, and were of superior quality. In early 2000, production of RED MSD Blaster II and III coils, p/n's 8202, 8203 and 8223, was moved from Andover to a company in Mexico, Pro-Bobbin. When this happened, I started to experience HEI module failures for no apparent reason. Others did as well, and MSD box failures when the RED Blasters were used. It was so untraceable that the problem would only be found by changing the coil. The cause was the insulation materials between the wire windings was deteroratinf and falling away from the coils, causing a layer shorting of the coils, and change of resistance/load on the module/box and failure of same. The 8200 chrome Blaster II coils remained at Andover, and had only the regular failure rates one would expect from a mass produced coil, functioned correctly. Sometime last year, production of the 8223 RED Blaster III coils with the HEI terminal,was returned to Andover. When I finally figured it all out, I switched my recommendations on coils to Accel round Super-Stock, made at Andover. Good quality coils, problems stopped, up until about a month ago. IN the last month, numerous Accel coils, 8140 and 8140C, were coming up either new defective or had operating issues like missing, erratic idle, no performance. This was traced to a move in production in the Accel coils. Accel was sold earlier this year, off the Dana Corporation, and the Accel coil production was moved form Andover to Taiwan. It was these Taiwan Accel coils that were having the issues. I have vended 19 Taiwan Accel coils in the last month, had 16 of them defective/develope problems with under 2 hours run time on them. No more Accel recommendations for me anymore. To identify different Accel round Super Stock coils: Andover Accels have segmented crimping at the top of the case to retain the top, with raised sections around the top. Taiwan Accels have a clean full crimp around the whole circumfrence of the top of the case. AVOID THE ACCEL TAIWAN COILS. Coils and their origins: MSD, 8200, and now, 8223 Blaster II, III series, Andover, good quality 8202, 8203 Blaster II series, Pro-bobbin, Mexico, avoid Accel 8140/8140C, 8145/8145C, Taiwan, avoid A good black coil with the same specs as the good Andover Accel is the NAPA IC12, same specs. AVOID the lesser cost NAPA IC12SB, Mexico made, low quality Crane PS20, PS40, Andover, quality PerTronix, NO, Taiwan, reboxed with USA logo, avoid Mallory round coils, no info Jacobs coils, overpriced Taiwan, avoid Hope this info stops someone from getting a problem coil. Craven

http://www.performancewholesale.com.au

Try looking under Mr Gasket

Ya in 94 they became a Ford Ranger clone.

Accel Super Coil # 140001 is one of the best coils made and would look wild under your Brumby's bonnet. Like this one below. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33689&item=7956467822&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW Craven

They will work just fine. Just drill a pair of holes and grind the center hole some to clear 4 little tits on the Subrau hubs and as a bonus the Suby hubcaps will fit them also. I drilled mine by knocking out two studs out of a old Suby brake drum and bolted it to the wheel, then squribed the centers of the holes on the wheel and drilled.

http://www.turbocity.com/product_info.php?cPath=15_20&products_id=178

$32 for a pressure check, thats more like it.

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=2932&prmenbr=361

Check this out. http://www.myclassiccar.com/HowTo/restoration/crackdetection/index.shtml found it here. http://www.penntoolco.com/catalog/products/products.cfm?categoryID=4193 All you realy need is a can of cleaner, dye penatrent and developer. I have used this stuff and does work. They use it in Nuke Plants to check pipes for cracks. http://store.weldingdepot.com/cgi/weldingdepot/SKx.html