stinky

Just found this awesome auto-panorama tool, does everything automatically for you, just point it at the source images. here's two that I made : AutoStitch

Yeah the welded diff went superbly .. for once it was the Subaru that came through relatively unscathed, and a Patrol and a Hilux that were fairly beat up by the end of the day. Here's the full gallery including all of the other cars on the trip. I was the only Subaru, and let me tell you it went from laughter at the start of the trip to earning the nickname "The Mountain Goat". There were a few spots where the real 4x4's got stuck that I just sailed straight through. Gallery And some video of the Subaru doing a 70 degree slope into a puddle of mud : http://xesla.ro/static/video/Ormeau1.asf http://xesla.ro/static/video/ormeau2.asf

My exhaust gets hit every time I got out ... never done any real damage to it though, a friend of mine had the headers ripped out of his sedan from a big hit though, so is probably worth protecting it somehow ...

Dunno yet, only just put them on, am doing some wheelin' next sunday though so can report how they go then. The car barely moves when I jump onto the bonnet now. The struts were fine before, this was just to toughen them up a bit, means I can go a bit harder and not worry so much about breaking a strut top.

I'm sure you could, the difficulty arises with the difference in size, the ea82 is slightly wider, and depending on whether the brumby is lifted or not could require chopping up the chassis rails. Also the ea82 wiring loom would need to be used along with any EFI gear if it's not carbed. Pretty much all the things you'd need to do to fit an EJ series engine. So the only real extra cost for the EJ series conversion is the extra price of the equipment. IMHO an EJ20/EJ22 NA would be a better choice than an EA82t. More than enough to power a brumby/brat along.

A brumby is an EA81, so the conversion will be fairly involved. Unless you get your hands on one that has already been converted for EA82/82T. There are people that have put EA82/T into Brumby/Brat so it's definately possible. Cost/Effort of doing so would not be that much less than that of an ej20/ej20t conversion if you are doing the work yourself. I wouldn't run over 10/12 PSI boost, and even then ONLY if you have an intercooler, otherwise the stardard ( 7 i think ) is about the best you'll get. I've heard of people going 15PSI+ with copper head gaskets.

Kermit? It's not easy being green.

bought a second hand "dual shock" kit from a dude. Basically it has an L bracket that ubolts onto the strut and the shock bolts between that and just behind the strut inside the engine bay. This toughens the front end right up. Probably make for a rougher ride though I can jump onto the bonnet and the front of the car barely moves

Is the tacho from the leone the same size as the clock on the brumby/brat ? I've seen subies where the ( generally broken ) clock has been chopped out and a tacho of the same size put in it's place.

I wouldn't do a suspension lift as it puts the CV's at bad angles. Instead give it 2" body lift ( or higher if you don't care about legality ) and stick some bigger wheels/tyres under it. The standard wheel upgrade here in Aus is a 14" Sunraysia. Something like the Wrangler TG for the tyre. Skid plates are a good idea, most 80's subarus will have a basic sump guard which will be enough for beachwork. Make sure it has dual range 4wd, preferably with a 3.9 gear ratio. If it's just for the beach you might want to weld the diff up as well. join http://www.ausubaru.com there's a few guys on there from the stockton area.

I've heard of people driving around on a welded diff with no problems, however it's just adding unnecessary strain to the driveline system, for the 10 minutes to put on/take off is it really worth it?

Thanks. Something tells me I'm gonna have no luck finding one till after the easter stuff is over. I tried an 8mm which would have worked but I don't have a ratchet strong enough to be banged with a hammer. to make matters worse the 3.7 welded diff has obviously been taken apart before as the bolts for them are rounded .. so I'm not sure how I'll deal with that :/

I am swapping the innards of a welded 3.7 into a 3.9. Am following the LSD swap instructions but need to know what size socket I need for the little bolts inside the stub axels so that I can remove them. I *think* they're 8mm but I don't have a socket long enough to reach ( or an extension bar that fits inside ) and I want to make sure before I go and buy one.

Unfortunately that car died in a warehouse fire a year or two back. I believe it was a 10 sec car without hitting the nitrous.

Having lost a front left wheel on a freeway doing 90km/h (lug nuts worked their way off), I can definately say, NO it doesn't balance with a wheel missing. However the only damage that was done was to the nut holding the balljoint to the control arm. I just swapped control arm / balljoint for a good one I had spare and it was all good.

To put it through right up close to the back of the bonnet I think you'd need to cut through extra steel ( reinforcing etc ) possibly affecting the strength / safety of the car ?

A friend of mine drilled a heap of holes on the front / back of the std air filter box ( so that it still gets filtered) and reckons it did make a difference. Just make sure that the air coming through the holes will still need to go through the filter so put them in sensible places.

For a really easy cheap snorkel, make it out of PVC pipe with a few bends to get it where you want it to be. put it through up near the front of the left side panel ( there's a spot where there's no re-inforcing to cut through ). As for attaching it to your engine, you *could* use a hose attached to the air intake of the stock blue filter box. or you could a seperate sealed airbox taken from a random snorkled 4x4 at the wreckers ( usually has 2 hoses coming out, one goes to carby, other to snorkel ) then get a adaptor build that's basically a box that bolts down to the carby and has a fitting for the hose to attach to. If you have a webber redline makes a snorkel air filter that will bolt onto it. Here is mine ( before I actually attached it to carby ), can see the airfilter box sitting in the spare wheel holder.

Made by an Aussie company called Suba-Xtreme.

that makes sense, cameras tend to do that ... nothing worse than doing something completely awesome, going home and watching the video which looks totally tame.

Are those cars auto or manual? They seem to have more trouble than they should on that video. Although we all know that video / photos never do the terrain justice and always looks like it's heaps easier than it really is. I've noticed doing trips in the past that auto subies ( ea81 at least ) have problems on stuff that seems effortless in a manual subie. Is that the same in your experience ?

Cool thanks look forwards to hearing from you

I had that exact problem, as well as my feet getting soaked with warm green liquid when i turned sharp corners. I actually rerouted the coolant hoses to skip the heater core entirely ... but then I live in a warm place and it's not my daily driver.

strange, it should easily run at 1/2 guage temp, I drove mine 100kms with the needle just below red on the way back from Double Island Point coz my thermos were playing up, no problems. not really much else constructive to add to that. btw, love the subaru nut inside icon .. got a bigger copy? would make an excellent vinyl decal.