Snowman

Actually, I forgot to mention that part of it:cool: . I spent a week trying to track down the o-rings by application when I had the external leak last year on my other car, with no luck. None of the parts stores even list them, and the dealer had to special order them but ended up getting the wrong ones. Finally, I just checked around in the o-ring assortment at one of the stores and found some that matched up. The smaller one can be exactly matched, but for the larger one, the closest you can get is one that is just a hair smaller on the inside diameter. It works just fine though...I ran it for several months with no problems. I'll check and see if I can find out the exact dimensions and post them in the USRM for reference. Another thing to mention is that I was concerned about using "standard" o-rings for fuel system stuff. As part of my search last year, I went to a major rubber products distributor and asked about it. They checked in their books and assured me that regular butyl-rubber o-rings are just fine for gasoline and that's probably what the stock ones are made of. The only difference between the butyl-rubber o-rings and the highest grade ones that they manufacture is the ability to withstand extreme high temperatures, but the range they are talking about is way higher than you would ever see in that application anyway. So yes, to answer your question, they are available at any parts store. You just have to take your injector and the old o-rings with you in order to find the right ones. They are also cheap that way. I think I paid less than $10 for enough to do all my injectors and some spares.

The fuel rail attaches to the intake manifold, then the injectors sit in the fuel rail (in this style of mounting...there are other types). So, if fuel gets past that bottom o-ring, it goes in the intake manifold.

Yeah, generally that sort of thing indicates a problem:clap: . That's a bummer. I would also be curious about the soft plugs in the heads. If it's leaking fast enough to "pour out", I kinda doubt it would be a HG issue.

Maybe it's different on the EA81s, but I put a 4wd disty in a 2wd EA82 last year with no problems. I didn't know that the coils were different, I just happened to swap that out too in order to eliminate that possibility. Plugged off the extra vacuum line and it was ok. I may have had to change some wires, but I really can't remember at this point. Whatever it was, it wasn't a big deal, and I had it done in a couple hours.

I think I may have finally figured out what was wrong with Sophia, my 92 Legacy. So, basically all winter, my fuel economy has sucked. Most of the time it has varied between 19 and 15 mpg running around town or on the highway, which is not what this car should be getting even in the winter. During the last six months, virtually everything that could possibly affect fuel economy has been changed: spark plugs, air filter, oxygen sensor, PCV valve, fuel filter, reset the ECM, and cleaned the MAF (the only thing I left alone was the plug wires, since they appear to be about a year old). None of those things made any difference. At that point, I even started checking around to see if I was leaking fuel out on the ground, which I wasn't. In addition to the fuel economy issues, about 2 out of 5 cold starts would take longer than normal, requiring about three seconds of cranking before the engine would fire. Finally, I realized that these two things might be connected, but what would cause such an issue? I then remembered that a previous EJ22 had developed an external fuel leak from one of the injector o-rings at 150,000 miles, after I had driven through some really cold weather. If the o-ring that seals the fuel passage externally could leak, then why couldn't the one on the bottom that seals the fuel passage from the intake manifold also leak, causing poor fuel economy and flooding the cylinders causing hard starting? Yesterday, I decided to pull the injectors and have a look. Lo and behold, all four bottom o-rings had a bunch of tiny cracks on the inner surface, which looked like enough to leak some fuel. A trip to Schmucks and $7 later, I had new o-rings on my injectors. The starting problem has not reappeared, and I took a short trip down to Girdwood to check out my fuel economy, which came out to be 24 mpg. Of course, that's only one trip, so I can't scientifically prove that any difference was made, but going from 16 to 24 mpg would probably indicate some difference. So, if your fuel economy sucks and you don't know why, pull your injectors out and look at the o-rings.

Finally got a chance to try out the Lightforce 240s on my F250 last night, and DAAAAAAAAMN! Those things are way better than the 170s on my legacy, which themselves are awesome. I'm definitely going to get the larger lights for my car soon.

They say that the best things take time, and this one sounds pretty awesome.

That is sick and wrong! But oh so wonderful:slobber: .

As far as HG oil leaks, you're kind of up a creek there. The only thing you can really do besides replacing them is try running thicker oil in hopes that it will slow down the leakage. I generally just use 15w40 diesel engine oil in situations like this.

How do you say "sonofab****!" in Russian?

Garner put an EA82T in gen 1 brat. I didn't look at the install too closely, but it didn't look like the frame had to be clearanced much.

Blast! Foiled again!

Nipper, you may have a rear facing foglight, but check this out! Rear facing floodlights, baby! (They come on manually or with the reverse lights.) I've also got high-mounted LED running lights and turn signal flashers on the top of the rear gate so people can see me better in the snow).

I always do them at 75, which I know is within the specs given by all the manuals.

Funny how that works, huh?

Right next to Kluane Lake in the Yukon, actually. Now that I think about it, it does kinda look like Turnagain, doesn't it?

hehe, now that would truly be useful I know Eric has had a yota for a while, but when did Ken get one?

Here's a pic of mine finally. If you're going to go with one pair of big lights, I'd get some Lightforce 240s. About 95% of the line-haul trucks up here use those.

Didn't WJM's 9.5:1 wagon run for like 20,000 miles? The first thing that comes to mind on this issue is that you should remember that anybody who actually builds a high compression EA82T is going to beat the living snot out of their engine. The second thing that I would be curious about is how many people who have done it started out with NEW or otherwise PERFECT heads and a block that hadn't seen much abuse, which I think would be a requirement to get any longevity out of a hopped up EA engine.

It's the spring "boinging" as it quickly releases its pressure. Nothing to worry about.

Another vote for Lightforce lights. They're freaking awesome, but they are expensive. I run one pair of 170's on my legacy, and I can easily see well enough to cruise at 80-90 mph at night on the highway. They also have adjustable beams and you can get different colored light filters (blue is great for whiteouts). Just bought a pair of the 240s for my new truck, so I'll see how those do.

I really like the way the legacy looks with lights mounted in the grille like that.

If you want AWD instead of part-time and are willing to sacrifice low range capability, the legacy 5 speed can be installed without much difficulty. You just need to get EA82T front axles, fabricate some tranny mounts, adapt the clutch cable and shifter, and alter the driveshaft. I used the legacy driveshaft because I've been told that they are more durable. It will bolt right up if you have the front section of it shortened by one inch. (I don't remember exactly what the issue was, but the stock EA82 driveshaft was going to have to be modified anyway, as it was either too long or too short).

I would agree that in your area, you should be able to do a lot better.

The later subarus (I think when they went to OBDII) don't have the power light, so the AT Oil Temp light flashes to indicate there is a problem.