Snowman

The cam profiles are slightly different, but you probably won't even notice. Cams are timed via the same procedure, and your SPFI disty will drop right in. You might experiment with advancing it a couple degrees beyond the stock setting (is it 20 degrees on SPFI engines?) to compensate for the lower compression.

If you have a complete parts car, you can swap over anything else that might be different (i.e., the turbo car might have a hydraulic clutch). The big thing is making sure that you have the proper rear end ratio to match the tranny.

Ditto. I've put together EA82 engines from various combinations of carb and SPFI engine parts. The carbed engine has slightly lower compression, but it's not a big deal. I made up some AIS block-off plates from an old street sign I had lying around, and they worked fine.

Sorry if I was misleading there. Like Keith explained, it all depends on your application. I'm used to living in areas where there is hard packed snow or ice for months at a time. If you're mostly dealing with slush and wet pavement, then some studless snow tires would probably serve you better.

A soob with "real" winter tires is incredible in the snow. Having studs will do for turning and braking what AWD does for acceleration.

The stock subaru block block heaters work great. Since it's a screw-in design and most others not, I doubt there are aftermarket ones available. I would recommend installing a stick-on oil pan heater at the same time.

What kind of tires are you running? (I suppose there are class-specific restrictions).

So, this is in case you need to pull out a stuck Hummer?

DUDE!!!! I will seriously help sponsor a USMB-er entering this event. (I'm not kidding. PM me if you're seriously interested.) I would love to do it, but I'm just too far away.

I couldn't have said it better.

Have you checked to make sure that the disty rotor isn't loose because of a missing screw? I've had them do all sorts of weird stuff when that happens.

For fuel injector cleaner, I always use the Chevron stuff. It's always worked well in my subarus, and has made dramatic changes in fuel economy if the fuel system is dirty.

Thank you for your help!

Hey everybody, So I'm here in Hawaii, helping a friend with a 91 legacy. It's spitting out code 35. I have looked EVERYWHERE here for a manual to see what that code is, but I have had no luck. Soooo.... What is code 35? Thanks.

Yup. I've seen pics of Aussie Soobs with very large flaps on there, designed to prevent the boot from getting hit with stuff.

Wouldn't the larger jet size be giving more fuel, causing rich running and poor fuel economy?

Grumble grumble...EJ dual range... Don't make me come over there!

Yeah, that's what I was going to do, but I ended up junking the car for other reasons before I had a chance to. It should be easy to find an FI tank for an EA82 car, but getting one for an EA81 might be kinda difficult.

Well, I just dropped $70 on one of these fuel filters for the 92 Legacy: Of course, I won't be able to install it until I get back from vacation in three weeks, but I'll let you know how it works. In case you're curious, it's got: -A spin-on 10 micron filter element (I'm looking to see if I can get a 2-micron replacement) -"aquablock" water separating coating on the element, so water beads up and collects in that blue bowl on the bottom, where you can drain it off:headbang: -rated for WAY more power than my EJ22 could dream of:headbang:

Dude! That's so cool! In high school I did a couple of fundraisers selling hot dogs and soda out of my EA82 wagon with a cooler and a coleman stove...wish I had one of those things back then.

I figured it was something like that...different spline count on those or something? Manual looks good overall. I wish I'd had it when I was doing my swap:D .

Another vote for air in the system. Did you bleed the air out using the little bleeder screw on the passenger side of the radiator?

I think the fuel surge tank may be necessary on any car that was originally carbed. I did my conversion on a carbed EA82 car, and I DID have fuel starvation issues when cornering or at extreme angles with a nearly empty tank. I have also been told that the FI EA82 gas tanks have some sort of baffle setup inside the tank that keeps a constant supply of fuel available, essentially like a surge tank. I'm also curious about what you said regarding swapping the entire EJ drivetrain. I used the 5MT from a 90-ish legacy, and my axles went right on the rear diff without any problems.

If it's a manual, put it in 5th gear and the parking brake should hold the car stationary. I've made a couple of tools to hold the crank pulley, basically replicating the super-expensive one you can buy from Subaru. Just get some angle iron, a couple of bolts, and a welder, and you're set.