Snowman

Yup. Mine was pretty ugly, but it worked, and it cleared the hood just fine. If you actually took the time, you could make it look pretty good. I just didn't have the time.

I always do that to make sure that the timing is correct before putting all the other stuff back on. Usually, I get the cooling system all back together first, but you can run it for a few seconds like that without any problems.

No, the stock fuel system shouldn't make any difference for wiring difficulty/time. The only stuff you're hooking to in the stock harness is power supplies and the fuel pump, which is the same on any EA82 FI body and virtually the same even on carbed ones. Try the EA82T rad if you want, but keep an eye on it. Just remember that it was barely adequate for the EA82T. I used a radiator for a 90-92 legacy when I put an EJ22 in my EA82 wagon, and it required very little modification. The lower mounts went right in. The only issue is that the EJ rad is taller, so you have to figure out something there.

Wow. I need to start charging more.

I'm pretty sure they take more than that. What does it say in your owner's manual? Unless you see it coming out somewhere, or the level in your tranny has gone up, I can't see how anything would be abnormal.

Yeah, your car has a timing belt, not a chain, and it's time to replace it anyway. With the belt off, it's very easy to pull the oil pump off to replace the crank seal and the oil pump o-ring, one of which is probably leaking. You should also replace the camshaft seals, which are most likely leaking as well. Like has been said, the water pump and tensioner/idler pulleys should be fine. Thoroughly inspect them, and if they're okay, wait until the 120k timing belt change to replace all of those components as well as the timing belt tensioner itself. The danger of having an oil leak from any of the front seals on a subaru engine depends on how bad the leak is. If it just drips a bit, the worst that could happen is that it gets on the exhaust and smokes like crazy for a while. However, if the leak is bad, it can soak the timing belt in oil, which will cause it to fall apart and break, which in the case of your car, would destroy the valves and probably the cylinder heads. I've seen several cases of older cars with the EA82 engine breaking timing belts after less than 10,000 miles because of major oil leaks.

Engine crossmember is good. I'm assuming that the brat has some tow hooks up front...I've used those on EA82 cars. There are also places right behind the front wheel wells where the "frame" rails meet up, about a foot inboard of the side of the car. For the rear, the differential is actually the best jacking point.

Those still look pretty wimpy. If you're dealing with dirty fuel, you need all the surface area you can get.

I think I ran mine up to around 80 in 4wd once on an ice covered road. Run for hundreds of miles at a time at 60-70 mph, and the tranny was good as new when I parted the car out at around 190,000 miles.

That's a good lookin' car. Glad to see somebody else in Alaska playing around with the newer Subarus. I finally got the OBW struts on my legacy over thanksgiving and I love it. I just haven't had a chance to really test it out yet, but it still handled great on the highway even with the increased height (I made my best official time from Haines to Anchorage coming back from this vacation, at 11 hours and 45 minutes).

For any "serious" applications, such as marine, heavy equipment, or power generation, Racor is pretty much considered the only "real" option. You can get them for just about any engine size, fuel flow rating, or what-not, and they come with 30 micron, 10 micron, or 2 micron elements. They also have a coating on the element that repels water, which then collects in the bottom of the bowl so you can drain it out. One for your application would look something like this if you want a spin-on: Or this, which is the older style with a removable cartridge inside (These are rumored to be better at catching particulates because of the larger bowl, which allows the fuel to slow down more, letting more junk drop out): I found this site that sells the filters, replacement cartidges, and just about anything else you'd need. http://www.marinefilters.com/viewproducts.php?number=5

I think there are three that are shorter (maybe two...I'd have to check). Anyway, they go in the holes where the head is "thinner", i.e., less distance from the gasket mating surface to where the bolt seats on the outside of the head. All of the holes in the block are the same depth, there are just differences in the head thickness.

I've seen a loyale RS. It was one of the later ones, which were not EA82T powered...I think it was SPFI. Very cool looking car.

I would imagine you could just take the plastic off from around the steering column and clip the wires going to the switch.

I'm almost positive that Subaru had used the exact same block heater for all of their cars. It looks identical from the EA82 to the brand new cars (haven't looked on an EA81/71). I have had a block heater (and usually an oil pan heater as well) on every car I've owned. They do wonders at easing startup, getting heat sooner, and reducing engine wear. I generally plug mine in at anything less than 20 degrees F. Unless it's below 0, I just plug it in for a couple of hours. Below that, leave it overnight. If the temperature drops near the freeze point of your coolant mixture, plug it in any time the car will sit for more than a few minutes. It's also very easy to install. Beware the plugs on older cars, as I have been told that they get really stuck in there and can actually crack the block when removing them. Gentle use of an impact wrench should eliminate this risk. That's what I did on mine when I got it at 170k, and I didn't have any trouble getting the plug out.

Yeah, I forgot to mention what happened when I first switched over....I switched from dino oil to mobil 1 10w30 at the 167k mark, and it started developing a tick from one lifter right after startup. (that's probably what the people on the oil board were talking about). The tick persisted when I switched to the Delvac 5w40, so I tried adding a quart of marvel mystery oil and going on a long drive at high speed. No more tick for the last 2000 miles. I had similar issues on an EA82 that got switched to synthetic around the 80k mark. I think what happens is that the increased detergent properties of the synthetic cause a slow exodus of the built up crud in the lifters, and while that crud is coming lose, the lifters tend to leak down when the engine is shut off. After I ran the MMO through it, all the crud was gone, and the tick went away.

How did you hook up the cables? It's probably really simple, I just can't quite visualize it yet. Very cool! And yes, tractors are awesome! Nothing does donuts on ice like a Kubota.

Haven't tried the Ow40 stuff yet. I'm currently still in the testing phase with the Delvac 5w40 (on the second oil change with it right now). I've never had piston slap issues with my EJ22...mostly was looking for an oil that I could run in all of my vehicles, gas and diesel. I also like the higher TBN that comes with a diesel oil, which should better handle any fuel dilution that comes from extended idling in cold weather. One thing's for sure, the Mobil oil has way more detergent than the dino oil that used to be in this thing. I had a lot of carbon and junk come out with the first oil change. Is the 0w40 listed as a gasoline oil or a diesel oil?

Everybody complains about the stock hitachi carbs, but that's mostly because they are dealing with old worn out ones. I've had two carbed EA82s, and until I screwed one of them up due to ignorance, neither of them had any issues. They started well even at 20 below, got good fuel economy, and had plenty of power (for a subaru). If there isn't anything "wrong" with the carb that's on there, I'd leave it alone and it should work fine.

Most of the wheel bearing issues I've heard about on any of the subarus have been caused by severe use, mainly going through super-deep water and/or rockcrawling type wheeling.

It sould be a direct bolt-in...at least I'm not aware of any changes in the P/S system on the EA82s throughout the years.

Not having seen one of the newer cars like this, I can't say for sure if this would work better, but I've always had tremendous luck with oil filter pliers like these: Sure, they usually tear the crap out of the oil filter, but it's garbage anyway so that doesn't matter.

Wow, that's incredible! I saw that brat on ebay a couple years ago, and it did NOT look like that.

If your dealer is any good, they should have those in stock, as they used the same one throughout the 90's. It might also be possible to substitute a bolt of the correct size with a rubber washer on it, but you'd have to try that to see.

That would work if the radio and the cig lighter are on the same circuit and you pulled the fuse for that circuit. I've also seen setups with a cigarette lighter plug hooked to alligator clips so you can plug in an actual 12v battery.