Snowman

Yes, the OEM filters are repainted Purolator Pure One (or whatever they call their most expensive filter) filters. I've compared them side to side and they are identical. The only other filter I would run besides those two is a WIX filter, which you can also buy at NAPA, where it's rebadged at the NAPA Gold filter. They even have basically the same part number, just with or without the first digit.

What does a Gates belt cost for the EJ22? OEM ones are $44 plus a couple bucks shipping from 1stsubaruparts.com.

Ditto. It's not worth your time to replace the boot. Once ANY grit or other foreign objects get into that joint, it WILL self-destruct in a matter of time.

Try changing your tranny fluid a couple of times. It probably is time for new clutches, but I've been able to get the "lag time" to decrease noticably by getting clean fluid in there.

True dat! It's been in the teens here in Anchorage, but it was 35 below for most of my 800 mile trip home for thanksgiving.

I've heard of several people doing exactly this swap. The only thing you'll have to deal with is making some ASV block off plates, which is easy.

I've owned 14 Subarus and each one has amazed me in some fashion, whether it's their supernatural ability to handle bad weather, their absolute refusal to quit running, or the ever-present fun to drive factor.

Nipper, when did your car chuck a rod? Hope it wasn't in the middle of your big trip. Am I right in assuming that the CC gave it full throttle, causing the tranny to downshift and send the RPMs sky-high?

Dual wheels will help in situations where you're looking for floatation, rather than traction. I've seen them a lot on quads where they're going through crazy mud or really boggy ground. However, if it's possible, you'd probably be better off with a single really wide tire.

Lots of things we do "up here" are completely unknown to those in warmer climates.

Is the fan slow, or are you not getting hot enough air? These cars often loose some of the fan speeds when the switch or the resistor pack dies...speed #4 usually works though, as that bypasses the resistor. I just got back to Anchorage, and I'd be happy to look at it for you sometime. PM me with contact info if you're interested.

Ditto. I've seen tons of videos on cooling systems in class, and there are lost of "reverse flow" systems out there. There are even cars with a thermostat on each end of the cooling system. However, Subaru has not done that yet. The thermostat controls the coolant flow into the engine from the bottom of the radiator, rather than controlling the flow out from the top. I've also been told that this provides more consistant temperatures.

Okay, so maybe I just don't get out much, but I've never seen this before, and I'm curious. So I was replacing the brake pads on my friend's Forester, which is a Canadian 1999 LS model (I think) with a phase II EJ25. I got to looking around underneath, and it has a factory oil cooler sandwhiched between the block and the oil filter. It's a water-to-oil job, about 2" thick, with one 5/8" coolant hose coming from the block drain on the passenger side and one going to the thermostat housing. What's the deal with these? Is this the standard setup on those cars and I just haven't noticed before, or is this something only offerred in Canada, or what? I would really like to get one for my EJ22, as I've wanted an oil cooler, but I'm scared to go with an air-to-oil one for fear of overcooling in the winter and because external oil lines frighten me.

The filter in the WIX catalog is the same one that Subaru used to use on all the EJ cars, which is still smaller than the EA filter, but it's way better than the new factory ones, which are microscopic. Just curious, has anyone tried just putting an EA-series filter on?

I've had quite a few EJ22s get water around the spark plugs, causing horrible misfires. It usually throws a code, but you never know. I'd go for new plugs and wires.

Ouch indeed! Generally, I replace all of the idlers and the tensioner assembly at the 120k interval regardless of condition. If there's any play or they look rusty, I'll change individual ones at 60k. If the customer is trying to save money, I'll do the same at 120k and then replace everything at 180k. There is just too much of a risk with running old idlers to be able to justify not spending the extra money to replace them.

The only thing I'm aware of is that EJ22s like to get water past the spark plug boots and down around the spark plugs, where it causes arcing and intermittant misfires. I've even had that damage the plugs. If you're going to see a lot of water, I'd use a bunch of dielectric grease where the plug boots seal to the heads.

Wiring, cooling, and all that take a lot of time but are doable. What I see as the major hurdle to swaps in a Subaru is that the odd design of the Subaru engine and transmission leaves very little room for different engine configurations. Even fitting a small four cylinder inline engine would be difficult because of the height increase. I remember seeing a brat at WCSS6 with a Chevy 2.8 v6, and it was lifted sky-high to maintain decent ground clearance with that engine in there. BTW: My understanding is that the main advantage to the 6 cylinder inline engine is that inline engines (not just diesels) with multiples of 3 cylinders are naturally counterbalanced. I believe that the 6 cylinder engines are slightly better so than the 3 cylinder ones, but I'm not sure about that.

To do it "right" this last summer, replacing all the seals, the timing belt, the water pump, etc cost me around $700 in parts. That's without needing any machine work on the heads or new heads (Mine never actually overheated before I did the job. If yours was overheated badly, you might need two heads for it). For a shop to do it, you're surely looking at a few hours, so I would be amazed if it was less than $1200-$1500.

I haven't actually swapped one over, but from looking at them, I'm about 99% sure that it's the exact same alternator.

Way cool! Why can't they do that kind of stuff over here?

I'm going to adapt an EA82 plate to mine since I don't do any serious offroading. I know Primitive Racing makes some beefy looking rally-type skid plates for most of the EJ cars, but they're not cheap.

Pardon my ignorance, but I tried searching on google to find out what a G63 is and couldn't find anything. What kind of engine is this and what did it come out of? Anything is possible with enough time and money! And to answer your question, yes the loyale uses a transaxle, but it's longitudinally mounted, not transverse like most small FWD cars.

With any fuel system swap, the first step is to find a factory service manual, a haynes manual, and a chilton's manual for both the donor vehicle and the engine recipient. I've done an EA82 SPFI swap and an EJ22 swap that way, and between all the books, I figured it out without much trouble. Basically, you're just replicating the setup that was in the donor car.

You may or may not need a new flywheel, and you most likely need a new starter. Pull the starter off and inspect the teeth. If there is any damage, it's toast. Then, look at the flywheel teeth through the starter hole while barring the engine over (so you can look at all of them). You may have gotten lucky and just damaged the starter, which sometimes happens. It's also possible that there's a bad spot on the flywheel. You should be able to tell pretty easily by doing this, so I'd check it out before making any rash decisions about it. If the need arises, you can probably use parts from the other legacy, but you'd have to look at them and see if they match up.