Snowman

That's my understanding of how it works. I assume the knob on the gun is for cars with a mark just at TDC. Mine doesn't have that at all. I think the stock setting is 8, but you can usually go to 10-12 without any problems.

My wagon doesn't have a rear swaybar. Doesn't look like there ever was one either.

Welcome to the board! I don't see why that wouldn't work.

Just brainstorming here..... Didn't find anything searching. What would it take to swap an EJ22T into an early model impreza? I would assume that the ECU is different, but would I need anything else like the complete wiring harness, cooling system hookups, different crossmembers, etc? I'm thinking that maybe I could find an early model AWD impreza with a blown engine, and a legacy turbo that's been totalled, maybe some WRX aftermarket parts, and end up with Franken-Roo, the rally beast. Your thoughts please.

You probably blew a fusible link. I'm going from memory here. All I can assure you of is that both yellow wires go to the same side, which I think is the ground side.

Crikey that's cheap for a complete rebuild kit! Carbsunlimited, where I bought the carb from, wants $29 for the power valve assembly alone. That article on theory is some good reading too.

The voltage regulator can cause your headlights to dim by reducing the voltage available. Simple.

YES! Don't run it like that unless it is a life or death situation! 18volts will (not appropriate for a family-oriented forum) up.

Thanks for your help SB. Do you know if it's easy to get to the power valve on the weber, and if so is it easy to tell if it's damaged? I just don't want to do another flippin' carb swap on this thing (three different carbs on it within a month and a half last fall), but I will if needed. And since the Weber is brand new as of last fall, there shouldn't be anything else that would need replacement, although it could probably benefit from a good cleaning after 6,000 miles of use. If taking apart the weber is a big project, I may just put the Hitachi back on until this summer when I've got the time to mess about with it some more, because I need a reliable car with decent fuel economy, and the Hitachi was doing great for a Hitachi.

Yeah, time for a new VR. I'd just grab an alternator from a junked car.

It smells a little rich. I've played with the idle mixture adjustment a bunch and that can't get it to run right, so it would appear that it's got something putting fuel in that shouldn't be. (If I remember correctly, I had to lean out the idle mixture noticably, so it's probably getting a decent quantity of poorly atomized fuel from the PV or some other source, hence the bad running until the engine speeds up and can handle that fuel better.)

Somebody suggested that maybe the power valve was damaged by a big backfire, and is now dumping fuel. Does this sound possible?

Not that I know of. I could swap the hitachi back on and see what happens though.

This has been happening for some time, but has recently manifested itself moreso since I put in the rebuilt engine. The increase in the severity may be due to the fact that I think I still need to advance the ignition timing a bit more due to the hi-po cams that I now have, however, it's pretty much the same problem that I've had for a while. Basically since I installed the weber, although that may not be the single cause, Roxanne has idled a bit rough. For the first few minutes after startup, she will slowly decrease idle speed until she dies. Also, although she seems to start okay when warm (sometimes takes some effort, but fires right up most of the time), cold starting is an issue. Here's what normally happens when I start her up in the morning (keep in mind this is around 25 degrees). Pump the gas a few times, crank, and she fires a bit but can't quite get going. Pump again, then crank, tries again. Then the only way to get her going is to crank at full throttle. She then fires, missing a bunch, then takes off. Still no idle until she warms up though. Then when I go to drive off, she'll try to die sometimes, but I can keep her going with some pumping of the throttle. That has also happened once or twice with the engine warm. Even when warm though, the idle is rough, like there is a miss. If i slowly give it throttle, once she gets above about 1300 rpm, it smooths right out. I'm thinking there are two probable areas to investigate. Either the Weber just isn't set up right or has gummed up idle jets or something, maybe the float level or choke is off, or I've got bad ignition components. Maybe when we took off the intake manifold, the carb got jolted and it screwed up something, or it was damaged by the backfiring when the drivers side cam was off a tooth. It's been two years since I replaced the coil and wires with Accel high voltage stuff, and the cap, rotor, and spark plugs are less than 6,000 miles old. There is also the looming phantom that I screwed up something internally when I rebuilt it. This doesn't seem likely though, as if that were the case, then there would probably be other symptoms like oil burning or lack of power, which I haven't seen any of yet. I'm going to mess with the timing today or tomorrow to see how that affects it. It seems to want some more advance, as it runs a bit smoother with that. I just need to take the time to get that right. It seems to me that the starting problems are related to carburetion though. The only experience I have with webers is what I've done on this one, which is installing it and adjusting the idle speed and mixture, and the choke and high idle, so I don't know how things like float level affect performance. I do have a hitachi in great condition that I could put back on, but I like the way the weber runs when it's going good. Please help!

Why not just get a BYB lift for it?

14.8 ft/lbs is the high end of spec, which I would recommend going to for this part to avoid future leaks. Do I count as a soob addict if I "just happen to have" an FSM sitting within reach of my computer chair?

That'd be awesome. The best hippie ride would be an early-gen VW bus with with murals on the sides and a twin-turboed SVX engine. That would be psychadelic, man:cool: .

My understanding of the FT4wd system is as follows. There is a differential connecting the front and rear axles. The "diff lock" locks and unlocks this differential. So you can either have sort-of four wheel drive for pavement, or true four wheel drive for low-traction conditions. As to LSD in the rear, I'm not sure. I think the likelihood of that is rather high though.

I know that putting the turbo closer to the exhaust ports on the engine will make it spool up faster. If you could somehow mount twin turbos, one on each head, they would spool up really fast if you sized them appropriately to account for there being two instead of one. I don't know enough about the ea82T to make any guesses as to what you would have to do to the size of the turbos. Adding exhaust pipe will decrease the performance because it will take longer to build up pressure, and a lot of the benefit of the thermal gas-expansion stuff will be lost. That said, it apparently is beneficial to run pipes that are of equal length from all the cylinders so that everything is equal.

That's the same method they use to seal the water pipes that go between the cylinder heads on Cummins truck engines. If it works for them, I think it should work on a soob. That said, I too apply an ample amount of silicone as a backup.

Probably leaking between the head and the cam case.

The reason for lower compression with a turbo is that you can make more power that way. Having a normal compression ratio severely limits your potential power gains because of the increased potential for detonation. More power can be gained by running low compression and higher boost.

I think there were a couple of hitches for sale in the marketplace. There are various sources. Some from the factory, some from U-hual or similar places, some from actual hitch companies. I've got one that was custom fabricated when the car was new by a place in Washington called Mann's Welding. They're out there, but not always easy to find.

Ah, you just got to the fun part. This took me an hour to figure out. To get them back together, you will need a dull awl or similar tool that can press on the little ball, and a piece of hose a couple inches long that fits inside the main body of the lifter and can push down on the inner plunger thingy, while allowing the awl to freely move inside of it. And you need a flat screwdriver to apply downward pressure to the hose. Now, once you have the spring and plunger/ball assembly thing inside the main body, which you have assembled under oil, set the lifter assembly in the oil, which should be at least an inch deep. To depress the inner lifter assembly, do as follows. Stick the awl through the hose first, then insert this into the lifter body. Use the awl to depress the little check ball so that oil can flow freely. Now use the screwdriver pushing on the hose to shove the entire assembly as far down into the lifter body as possible. Release the awl to shut off the check valve, then release the pressure on the hose. Without removing the lifter from the oil, put the other piece in. Then you can temporarily take it out to put on the retaining collar. This probably sounds really weird, but it will make sense as you do it.

Update: Plugged off the ASV system: no more backfire Bumped up the timing a couple more degrees: More power and smoother, still no detonation yet, so I'll go a little more when I get the time (ha ha ha... not funny). I'm pretty sure that the more agressive cam profile just demands earlier ignition timing to run right and reach it's full power potential, so more experimentation is on the way. The rings seem to be seating well, and the lifter tick went away on its own. No other strange noises or anything. It seems like my rebuild might actually be considered a success at this point, knock on wood. Oh yeah, I was able to torque all the head bolts in the car, but it was an extreme excercise in masochism.