Snowman

The ECM should kick up the idle with the A/C on. Also, it generally starts out at a higher idle speed for a couple seconds right after you start the engine, regardless of temperature. The IAC could be the problem, but I would lean more toward the coolant temp sensor, which is a common issue on the SPFI soobs.

That's the one for the gauge.

Subarubrat is on the right track with his advice. When they had the heads off they should have cleaned them, especially if it was a dealer, so the heads should look cleaner than the block next to them. The gaskets may also be shiny (they went to a metal HG on those right?). I wonder if the guy could go to the dealer and have them pull up the service record for the repair.

Another vote for perfectly normal. The stock gauge is not very good, and what you describe is typical of the EA82.

Use copper pipe where it doesn't have to be flexible. That's how the Vanagon Soob conversion guys do it.

Does it look easy to replace if you have to grind or torch it off?

Looks like it was custom built for your car! Sweet deal!

Just because the cap is new doesn't mean it works properly. If it's an OEM Subaru cap, I'd be less suspicious, but that could still be the problem. I'd try replacing the cap again, and double checking that the hose to the overflow tank has no issues. You could try pouring coolant into the overflow tank with the radiator cap off and making sure that the coolant flows through the hose.

I've had a couple of leaks do the exact same thing on my EA82s. There isn't anything underneath the T-belt cover, aside from the headgasket of course, on that side that could leak coolant. It's most likely coming from up above and running down there. I'm not sure how the ER27 is set up, but on the EA82, it could be leaking from the thermostat housing gasket, intake manifold gasket, the upper radiator hose, the coolant thermosensor for the ECM, the temp gauge sending unit, or the little coolant jumper hose that runs from the intake manifold to the block. Clean everything up really well with some brake cleaner (careful not to get too much of it on the rubber components) and observe that area while the engine is running. You can also feel around for dampness under any of those components when the engine has cooled down after a drive. If you can't find the leak right away, I think I'll have to use this as an excuse to buy a cooling system pressure tester:grin: .

I would highly recommend removing that second 90 degree elbow at all costs. The first one is necessary if you're going to use the stock air cleaner housing, but if you were to eliminate that it would help even more. A 90 degree bend has the same effect on flow as adding 7 to 9 feet of extra tubing.

Install them dry or with the spray-on copper stuff. Do not use a liquid sealer here.

I think the first series of pics was from just after they finished building the car. The second series was its "last hurrah" right before it was retired, and that jump left a large crease in the roof. Looks like fun!

Also double check that you lined up the crank using the three little marks rather than the TDC mark.

I think you should try replacing the axle, cone washer, and flat washer before resorting to buying a new hub. These cars don't eat hubs for no reason...it's usually because of some other problem.

I saw a show on hovercrafts a few years ago, and that one has MASSIVE gas turbine engines. Even though it's not Suby-powered, it's freakin' sweet!

It's probably okay for short distances, but yes, the input shaft and countershaft must be spinning in order to fling lubrication onto everything.

A very popular conversion is the EJ22 engine from the 90-94 Legacy, I think they call it the Liberty where you're at. 130-140hp with tremendous reliability and longevity. They're also relatively common and cheap to come by. Do a search in the Retrofitting forum, as lots of people have done this swap recently and there is a lot of information available. A WRX EJ20G turbo engine has a lot more power, but is also more work. Talk to Corky (Dr. RX) about this swap, as he knows a lot about it.

The 3.3L has the same bellhousing bolt pattern as the EJ22, but it would be a TIGHT fit in there. There was an ER27 powered GL at WCSS7, and the guy had to mount the radiator on top of the engine because it wouldn't fit in front. I don't know the length of the EG33, but it's probably at least as long as the ER27. It's worth a shot though.

As long as it's the same gear ratio, any subaru diff should work. I'm not positive about the newer ones matching up with your axles, but I know they will at least through the gen 1 legacy.

A coworker of mine ruined his transmission by towing 2 up 2 down for about 30 miles. If you disconnect the driveshaft, you can leave the rear wheels on the road with no problems...you just can't turn the tranny without the engine running because it doesn't lubricate the bearings and stuff properly. Same goes for flat towing...short distances are okay, but that's it. Most tow companies are switching over to those big flatbed trucks so that they don't have to deal with liability issues surrounding towing vehicles with wheels still on the ground and damaging drive components.

Very nice!

OMG, the little rubber hose with the speed bleeder is the best idea I've seen in months! I'm going to make one of those that I can just transfer between all the vehicles I work on. That is going to save me so much time. Morgan, you are the MAN!

You may be able to put springs from an RX onto your hatch struts. I'm not positive they'll fit, but I think people have done it.

http://www.angelfire.com/tv2/tvthover/ This is for sale on ebay here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hovercraft-Boat-aircraft-ultralight-subaru-not-rotax_W0QQitemZ4587978287QQcategoryZ26434QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Looks like an EA71 or EA81 engine. I think one of those would be really fun...if I had the money.

I would say that your clutch is probably on its way out, but it may very well have some more useful life in it. Clutch pedal free travel decreases with age/wear, so it's probably not in need of adjustment. Most of the parts should swap between the two cars. I'm not positive about everything you mentioned, but you should be able to use the suspension/brake pieces and the steering column. Not sure about the power steering rack. Unless you plan to put very large tires on, I don't think it's really necessary. I'm running 27's without P/S and no difficulty turning even at low speeds. Good luck with your new project.