Snowman

There are adapters to hook the VW engines up to Samurai and Totota truck trannies. You might search for those, as that could provide some insight. Of course, you could do an 8" lift and divorced T-case mod using a Yota tranny...

I think that's a great idea. If you can afford the $$$, I say go for it. Another possibility would be to make it a sort of hybrid, kinda like diesel-electric trains. If you got an appropriately-sized diesel generator, you could probably cut the battery bank size way down. If it was engineered correctly, you could run around town (maybe have a 20-30 mile range?) on just the batteries, then fire up the genset for longer drives if it was sized so that it could propel the car and slowly charge the batteries while cruising at 55. You could also make a custom bed cover that had solar panels in it.

Go through Subaru for rebuild parts. I've had very good luck ordering from 1stsubaruparts.com. They have OEM stuff in many cases cheaper than the crap at NAPA. Call them and ask about your motor since it wasn't sold in the US. I would be willing to bet that most if not all of the stuff is the same as the US-market EJ20 motors.

I would pump them up like 85sub4wd described. I have also heard that for this, it works well to submerge them in ATF, due to its higher detergent level. Soaking them overnight after this and before installing them also tends to help.

Check the TPS and the coolant thermosensor. If the ECM is getting an incorrect signal from either, stuff like this can happen.

I'd vote for the EJ22 n/a motor as well. They've got some balls and are TOUGH. Also, the 91 legacy, which had that motor, was voted the easiest car to work on by some mechanics association. As far as trannies go, people have had good success mating subaru transmissions up to divorced T-cases out of Nissan pickups. Haven't done it personally so I'm not sure what is involved, but it's something to consider.

Filters: Go to Subaru and buy a case of 12. It's $5 a filter for what is essentially the same thing as the top-end Purolator, which generally costs more if purchased individually. Engine oil: 10w30 Mobil1 is what I swear by. Castrol makes good dino oil, but for synthetic, most of the manufacturers that run syn oil from the factory use Mobil1. Gear oil: 75w90 Synthetic. I'm running Quaker State because that's what I had available at the time. After probably 30,000 miles, it looks just like the day it went in. I'd check out the Mobil1 or Amsoil stuff, as they have been around the longest. Most other manufacturers are relatively new to synthetics. I wouldn't waste your money on Redline or Royal Purple. Also, Setright actually had his EJ22 start making piston slap noise after he ran Redline in it for a little while. Another thing to consider is availability. Some of these synth oils are hard to find in gas stations and you might be up a creek if you're out in the boonies and need a quart. Mobil1 is pretty ubiquitous and is probably your best bet as far as universal availability.

I can't access it. The page says something about only allowing a certain number of downloads or being up for a certain amount of time.

Saturday around 8 sounds good.

Matt, when is the install planned? I can make it late friday night and any time after that.

That setup will be LOUD. Glasspacks really don't do much. I'm pretty happy with my Flowmaster imitation muffler from Summit Racing ($15) with a straight pipe going to that. It makes some noise but nothing that I consider annoying, even on long drives (14+ hours).

Hey Skeet, what are you doing in Juneau? Spark, I'll PM you with info.

Anybody interested, please email your contact information, location, what kind of subaru you drive, and if you want stickers how many of them, to subaruklubofalaska@hotmail.com

That's pretty good fuel economy for making the trip that fast. In my lifted wagon I averaged around 23 mpg and made it in 6 hours.

Another reason that I love Subarus: Yesterday, I drove home from college for spring break, 750 miles, in a car that I purchased for less than the fuel cost for the trip:drunk: . Amazingly, due to fantastic road conditions, I beat my previous best time of 13.5 hours and made it in 13! Oh yeah, thanks for the coffee Matt! That was my saviour on this trip, considering that I had like three hours of sleep the night before!

Um, Brad, not to diss what you're saying here as I run jet boats too, but what happens when the jet gets clogged with weeds and junk? Not much as far as propulsion is concerned. These boats are highly specialized to run in the marshes, where I think jet drives would not go.

Your ignition timing really needs to be set with a light. I've had a hard time getting the belts lined up before, but generally it's pretty straightforward. It seems odd that one of the cams was off a tooth (if that was the case) and it ran well. I screwed up last year and had one cam off a bit, and it idled okay but ran like absolute crap under load.

Ditto on the more timing thing. Most of my cars have run best around 12-14 degrees, rather than the stock 8. I wouldn't waste your money on fancy plugs. Most people have found that plain old NGK's are the best for these cars (that's what came from the factory and what the engineers planned for). Ditch the stock muffler for something that breathes a little better. I got a small 3-chamber muffler for $15 from Summit Racing that sounds cool but not loud and seemed to help with performance and economy a bit.

Yeah, boats are NOT cheap by any means. I could probably find a USED Jet-drive outboard motor for my jet boat for $3500.

I've seen a few 1.6 n/a VW diesels here, and heard mention of the turbo model in the manual, but never actually seen one. Do you know if they just slapped a turbo on and adjusted the fuel pump, or if it's got lower compression pistons and such? Also, was the turbo model available in the US?

Actually, I'm not so sure there are not ATV rims that bolt up to soobs. We put the donut spare from my mom's 87 wagon onto our 91 Suzuki King Quad once just to see if it would work.

Where did you get the axles from? I had a rebuilt one last about 50 feet before it was worse than the old one. With rebuilt axles, it really is kind of a dice throw whether they're good or not.

I think this deserves a . I'll take two.

The fan I added is rated at 7.5 amps. I would safely assume 15-20 for two fans. What I was trying to say is that you should put them on switched relays so that you can turn them on when you're cruising in the desert but turn them off when running down the highway. I would also recommend having them come on with the factory thermoswitch just as a safety precaution.

For my dual fans, I've got the stock one wired so that it turns on via the factory thermoswitch, or I can manually turn it on. Then I added a second one (Summitracing.com had a Derale fan pretty cheap) that I can either turn off for water crossings, have it come on via an adjustable temperature switch (also from Summitracing.com for like $35), or I can turn it on manually. However you do it, I would not waste the load on the electrical system of having two fans on all the time. Two fans would draw 15-20 amps, which is a third of the alternator output! Running at anything over 25mph will provide plenty of airflow to keep it cool.