Snowman

Just order OEM ones from 1stsubaruparts.com. Most of their stuff is cheaper than the stuff I can get from NAPA, even with my student discount.

I had considered putting a B-series Cummins 4 cylinder in a Toyota truck, but was told that the engine is too heavy for that. Definitely way too heavy for a soob. The VW engines would be just about perfect for our cars. Relatively light, okay power, and in the Rabbit pickups they got 40-50 mpg.

It is possible that they screwed up the machining and ground more off the center portion of the flywheel where the disk mates up than where the pressure plate bolts on. That could definitely result in slippage. Like Qman said, I would also ask if he used sealant on the flywheel bolts. If even a tiny amount of oil leaked past there, OR if he put too much grease on the input shaft, the disk could have gotten lubed up and started slipping.

Put in a radiator from a turbo soob. You car will be much happier and more thermally stable that way. I wouldn't worry too much about the SPFI. Replace your oxygen sensor and that's about it. Since you've got a lifted rig that sees some offroad use, you really should consider a kevlar clutch disk. I talked to a local clutch rebuilder, and he said that he could make me one up for an extra $100 over the regular cost. He also said that for that kind of use, it would last way longer than a regular organic disk, so it would be worth it. Just something to think about.

That sounds about right. If any of the sealing surfaces are worn, it won't last as long though....my rebuilt 205k motor started leaking a TINY bit (no drop on the ground yet, but a bit of residue on the engine) from what I think is probably the front crank seal. If it starts to leak much, I'll just sleeve it though.

Sounds like you just want an excuse to try out your welder! Let me know if I can help out with anything. I also really want to see the finished product because the foam in my drivers seat is trashed and if Legacy seats are a viable option, I might put a set in.

What kind of IM testing do they do there? If it's visual, I'd leave the AIS bolted on but not functional. If they do tailpipe testing, removing the AIS would probably affect the readings. I would seriously consider the SPFI conversion at this point if your state would allow that. It will simplify the underhood mess a great deal and improve power, drivability, and economy. This is also the best time to do the conversion.

A plugged cat will not allow the engine to rev much, even in neutral. Aside from that, I'm not sure of the symptoms.

I've had problems with the thermostat housing gasket. Check that because it will leak onto the head, which heats up, causing the smell as well as making the coolant disappear. Another mysterious one I had recently turned out to be one of the heater hoses where it attaches to the firewall. It was leaking and running down the firewall, and the leak got really bad before I could figure out where it was coming from. Another bit of advice. If you keep having problems with coolant leaks, don't overlook the radiator cap. If it's not venting properly, allowing too much pressure to build up, leaks will start from all kinds of places.

Oh man, you reminded me of something that might make some of you on this board very excited. Finding a diesel that will bolt up to the Subaru tranny is virtually impossible, but now it looks like there may be an alternative. There are a few companies that sell kits to connect VW diesels to Totota truck trannies as well as Suzuki Samurai trannies. It would take some fab work, but I think it would be entirely possible to put this comination into a lifted soob in the same fashion as the increasingly popular divorced T-case mod. Any thoughts on this? BTW: The Rabbit diesel produces somewhere around 50 hp and 100 ft-lbs in stock, non-turbocharged form. It would not be terribly difficult to increase those numbers.

Go with a turbo radiator. I got one from radiator.com for $125 and I haven't had to turn the fans on since.

I've had great luck with the Aviation Form-a-Gasket for sealing water and oil. It's also really easy to clean off if you have to take it apart in the future.

If that second legacy is real, it looks like it's sitting on a Yota or Jeep frame or something. Actually, at second glance, I noticed the offset rear diff, typical of Landcruisers. Edit: Just checked out their website, and I WANT TO GO THERE!!!!! :slobber:

Maybe try using some of that spray-on copper stuff on the TB gasket. Intake manifold gaskets should be installed dry.

The throttle sticking is kinda weird. I would lube up the cable and where it connects to the TB with some good low-temp lubricant. I know this won't fix the problem, but if mine doesn't want to start, I can always get it to go by putting it to the floor and cranking. Sometimes it takes like 10 seconds, but that has worked every time. I'll have to look into replacing the thermosensor on mine too. Apparently that is a common problem.

Something I've been wondering about with the synthetic oils with ratings of 5w40 or 0w40 is if they have the same problems that 10w40 dino oil supposedly does (namely, it tends to break down and gel over time since it takes a bunch of additives to get that viscosity range out of it). Anybody know much about that? BTW: I've had excellent luck with Mobil1 10w30 year round and we have temperatures from -30 to 90 degrees here.

I just bought some oil filter pliers from Mac Tools. Havent tried them yet, but they look pretty slick. Big knarley teeth to dig into the filter and three size settings like Channellock pliers.

Sorry to go off topic, but your PM inbox is full, Tex. Are you still interested in selling those coil springs from the RX? Please PM me or respond to the thread in the marketplace. Thanks.

That's really cool! How much did the unit cost? What kind of boost is the car running?

Is there much good offroading near Homer? A trip down there would be fun:D !

Wow, I was tired yesterday.....I finally got that this morning when I woke up and thought about coffee....

I need to talk to the guy more about the setup. It may be entirely possible to find a heavier spring that would fit in the stock pressure plate. I will let you know what I find out!

1stsubaruparts.com This is a good idea. The list should go either in the USRM or maybe as a sticky in the marketplace.

I'm putting RX springs in the front of mine. I dunno if they're actually taller, but they are stiffer, which should result in less sag.

I think everything is there for the ASV setup. The heads are completely identical aside from that. As has been said, pistons and cams are different and that's it.