Snowman

Get one from the JY. New solenoids are ridiculously expensive. Just put 12v to it and see if it clicks.

It's the air suction valve. It must be removed if you convert to SPFI, because extra air put into the exhaust will mess with the oxygen sensor.

Hrm, might have to look into better ground cables. Arch is right, I've been told that fine strand welding cable makes the best battery cables. Logically, it should make great ground cables too.

1986 EA82 d/r 4wd wagon 3" PK lift Rebuilt engine and converted to SPFI. Delta cams 27" BFG A/T's in summer, no-name studded snows in winter running on 14" pug steelies the LSD is sitting in my garage waiting to go in upgraded to turbo radiator with dual electric fans soon to have hi-output GM alternator SKA Subaru Klub of Alaska

85-86 had solid black bumpers. 87-89 had the colored bumpers like yours. The loyales had the same bumper shape as the colored ones, but I think they were solid black.

I cleaned up and reused my old followers and HVLAs but put in new springs. Been working great for over 10,000 miles so far.

Just go get some loaded calipers that have everything you need. It's probably not much more expensive than ordering all those parts individually, and takes a whole lot less time. If you really want to rebuild the calipers yourself, definitely pop out the pistons and inspect them while replacing the seals.

Air density. Less cylinder pressure and less oxygen to burn at higher altitudes. In the case of an F.I. and turbo car, it shouldn't make much difference since the air density is compensated for very well. It's much more of an issue on vehicles with carburetors and mechanical/vacuum advance.

Really shouldn't make too much of a difference.

My rule of thumb is to advance it 2 degrees at a time until it starts to ping under load, then back off until it stops. Rather than just going with a setting that somebody has found works for their car, this optimizes the timing for your car, your fuel, and your climate, all of which can affect where the timing should be set.

I'm gonna have to look into this...... I know you can do it easily with the T-cases on trucks, but I was under the impression that everything was going on inside our transmissions and it was a single rod poking out for both functions.

That's f-in' brilliant!!!!! At work I have used similar procedures to help smooth out the iron heads on our 1930's-1940's Desotos and Packards, but the thought of actually flattening out aluminum heads that way never occurred to me.

I broke one in a similar fashion last summer. You can probably just get that plate if the main body of the pump isn't broken.

It's in two scenes? I only saw it where Rex pulls up real fast and beats the crap out of that guy for hitting on his wife.

If you've got cams, your ignition timing setting will probably have to change. I'm not sure about the turbo cars, but on my cammed n/a EA82, I've advanced the timing quite a lot to get it to run properly. Just advance it a couple degrees at a time until you hear pinging under load, then back off until it stops.

Just be anal about cooling system maintenance and it should be a great ride!

Well put Ken.

Yes, the heads will swap over just fine. Internally, the two engines are IDENTICAL except for the pistons and maybe the cams. (The SPFI motor has 9.5:1 compression compared to the carb's 8.7:1, which is caused by the piston variation.) Your carbed heads have a port in the exhaust manifold where air is inducted to help the cat burn excess fuel better. If you put the carbed heads on the SPFI motor, you have to block off those ports, as extra air in the exhaust will confuse the oxygen sensor.

Could have just been trapped air causing problems.

That almost looks too nice to put on a car. Almost....

I swear by Chevron Fuel System Cleaner. It's had a bunch of different names over the years, but it's all the same stuff. I worked at a fuel company for a while, and it's the only product we sold that we guaranteed would do SOMETHING.

Hey there! Great to see some more AK soob heads coming out of the woodwork! Welcome to the board. We should definitely get somethin' going this spring. I might be in F-banks in early march for a couple days. SKA (Subaru Klub of Alaska) update: McBrat had some setbacks on the stickers, but they are in the works. I should have them sometime in the near future. If you are interested in joining, send your contact info and what kind of car you drive to subaruklubofalaska@hotmail.com.

If you really don't want any computer stuff, you could just put a carburetor on it. However, I don't see too much of a reason to ditch the factory fuel system.

I think hooziewhatsit is on the right track with the PCV system. It's a poor design on these car, and it you don't run a genuine subaru valve and keep it as well as the lines clean, it will suck oil out of the crankcase, which either goes into the intake or leaks out from where the hoses connect. Clean everything off and start looking around. S'ko's list is pretty complete, but it's also possible that on an EA82 (the engine that you've got), the cam-tower to head mating surface is leaking. The oil passage in there is sealed with an O-ring, which can leak profusely if it fails.