Setright

Rear pistons on my old Legacy went straight in, no tools just by hand! 12,14, and 17 mm sounds spot on. You might need an extension on the socketdriver to loosen the caliper support bracket, they can be tight. Spray some rust penetrant on them and tap them with a hammer if they won't move. Don't force the brake hose to bend too sharply. I would strongly recommend replacing the discs - or having the old ones resurfaced. If you don't, you will experience problems very soon.

Leaving the OE box in, and fitting a K&N is plenty. HOWEVER, you must use a short pipe, that ends in a "velocity stack" (trumpet shape to avoid turbulence) to suck colder air from the fender cavity. All the extra money spent on the pre-fabricated kits only improves the look underbonnet - and makes things louder, but often less musical.

The WRX is turbocharged, nes pas? So I doubt the piston can collide with the valves. However, any double camshaft engine can bash intake and exhaust valves into eachother. Usually far less serious.

Ahhh, its tricky, isn't it? "If it aint broken, don't fix it" will only lead to untimely failures of some components. On the other hand, every time you dismantle something you run the risk of damaging it or components around it. If it's not leaking, then why should it start now? What happens if a bolt breaks off during removal? Will you be able to re-seal it well enough? I agree that cam and crank seals should be replaced, but the oil pump seals have me in a pickle too.

Subaru.

M1, 6k, Sube filters.

I have long trusted JVC for my mobile music delivery. From MD walkman's to car CD players. No issues, despite some rough treatment. They also offer good functionality and sound quality in relation to price.

H&R springs and Whiteline, both seem to get good reviews from all sides. Eibach tend to be very stiff, and only suited for very smooth tarmac. Most experts will advise that lowering more than 40mm requires new shocks. I wouldn't go lower than 30mm on OE shocks. The lowering springs get stiffer the more they lower and the shocks can't keep up. Most of the time the car will get a bouncy ride, that never settles down, even though the movements are smaller than with stock springs. The stock damper's inability to contain rebound with very stiff springs can lead to dangerous behaviour. Stay in the 20-30mm range and keep your shocks.

Eop, you really ought to replace the rotors at the same time - o rat least have them resurfaced. You will run into premature problems if you replace only the pads. Btw, brake job is quite easy, and there will be plenty of support from this site

Timing belt interval for most of these cars is 62k miles! While in there, replace the crank and cam seals. I would leave the water pump and oil-pump seals until you reach 124k. Tensioner and bearings will also last two belts. Your list does seem comprehensive, so you shouldn't expect anything. Hats off for noticing the PCV - most people don't understand how important this is.

Remove the two bolts holding the rear seat squab, and remove the squab by pulling it forward and then sideways out of the car. Remove the three bolts holding the rear seat backrest, and unhook it by lifting at the headrests. It helps if you can find someone to assist in lifting the backrest out of the car, it's a little cumbersome and the brackets love to scratch the door sills. Unhook the two plastic plugs and one plastic "bolt" securing the kickplate - aka. doorstep. Both sides of the car. Pull the vertical plastic trim off the doorframe - two clips holding it on quite tight. Both sides. Unscrew the single screw at the base of the "C" pillar trim, just below the slit where the seatbelt emerges. Get your fingers behind the panel and pry it off. Two plastic "rivets" at the rear, and a host of clips along the way up to the roof and forward to the "B" pillar. Drop the panel down by extending the seatbelt to allow some play. Let them rest outside the car, if possible. RIGHT! You can now pop the four black plastic rivets holding the parcel shelf and hey-presto there's the speakers! An 8mm wrench will allow you to unscrew the entire speaker mount, without clashing for space with the rear window. I did all this today, and it took about two hours, doing it single handedly, and learning as I went along. Drilled new holes in the speaker mount plates and screwed in my JBL's. I expect half an hour can be trimmed off when you know what you're doing. Oh yeah, installation is the reverse of removal

RedeX fuel products are the first I have come across that offer a noticeable difference before and after. "And it really, really, works!"

Cheers GT, I will be in the drive dismantling my rear seat if you need me

Glad it worked out, cheap and easy

bump

How do you get the lousy factory speakers out of the rear shelf on a 4-door Imp??? Tried pulling on the plastic grill and something snapped, but the grill is only loose in that one place. Someone please help me quick! I wanna do this NOW, and I will end up breaking something if I don't know what I am doing! 2000 model year, last of the MkI

Lol :-)

BC7 Legacy, EJ22 @ 125k. Compression leaking into coolant on cylinder three.

Oh, and of course, check the thin black hose that drops into the coolant overflow tank for blockage.

A new rad cap, would be very good place to start. Try running the car until the engine is at operating temp, and then checking the hose.

While you're at the local stealership buying OE hoses, get a new PCV valve too. Makes a big difference:D

Uhm, the original intention is that you draw blowby gases directly from the crankcase spigot, with throttle body vacuum. The valve cover spigots are there to allow fresh, filtered air into the engine. Take note, this is opposite to most other car makers, who choose to draw from the valve cover and let fresh air into the crankcase. Subaru system is better, because it removes potentially harmful blowby gases directly from the crankcase, instead of pulling them through the entire engine! If you have modded the car extensively and lost the original "Positive Crankcase Ventilation" spigots on the intake, I would suggest a couple of those tiny K&N breather filters, one on each valve cover spigot. And then find some way to connect intake vacuum to the crankcase spigot. You must use a PCV valve in the hose, to avoid sucking too hard and prevent backfires from igniting gases in the crankcase!!! Don't disable the PCV system, your engine oil will be under attack from the blowby.

4WD and AWD are just jargon. Subaru started using the AWD moniker to distance themselves from part-time 4WD vehicles. Which in essence means that AWD is permanent and 4WD is switchable. Make your own rules

There's a spring in that valve, and that certainly ages. Replace the valve. Worked for me!

If you wanna be sure, disconnect the battery for an hour. Start the engine, dont touch anything, let it idle up to normal operating temp, and switch it off.