[HTi]Johnson

The maf unplugged causes it to change. ABout that switch...where is it?

I lied, I'm posting again. The timing is %100 on...I quadruple checked it today. I am starting to lean towards fuel cut issues. When I first start it, it idles at 1500rpm then suddenly decreases to a seizure....and then dies. THen i try to start it again... and it idles really low then dies...then i turn the key on off on off on off then start it and it idles at 1500 then dies, the same. When it is idling at 1500RPM and i give it gas...it bogs down, then when i release the throttle, it reuturns to 1500rpm then dies. [HTi]JOhnson

I hope you are right. Because I am going to check it tomorrow. As for plug wires, I have an inline plug tester....i tested all the plugs...i got spark through the wires. But I'm going to change them anyways...once i get it running right. I'm going to try to stop posting about this damn car...sorry for the troubles. [HTi]Johnson

I'll check the timing, again.:-\ Today I decided to look at the little LED in the MPFI box, it blinks 1 1 1 1 ::pause::: 1 1 1 1 . When the car isn't running. Then I turn it on and it pauses for a while...then starts blinking again same code. I fiugred that 1 1 1 1 means 4 so I checked the FSM and it said it specifies that it's a California AT car...or am I wrong? THanks, [HTi]Johnson

I'll post this, then I'll try to find the answer Here's a FSM for a 1988 Subaru Turbo (very helpful) http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 [HTi]Johnson

So it'll give codes when the check engine light isn't on?

I'm sorry for not stopping, but this car is giving me hell. I have it timed at 20'BTDC. The problem: Bad hesistation. When I first start it (Cold) it revs fine. Then it gets worse. I tried to move when it was cold. It started to move then it would lug and bounce and then once the turbo started to spool it would go to 4 grand and then cut and lug and bounce. I thought it might be to much back pressure so I removed the exhaust from the turbo and tried.(I know the O2 sensor isn't there). It would do the same thing. Could it be a bad o2 sensor? I kinda thought it could be the fuel pump, I haven't check into it yet. Could it be the fact I don't have any type of air filter on the intake, it's just the MAF setup? When it is up around 4 grand and I am trying to move, it backfires out the intake, not a lot, just every now and then...but I am pretty sure all the valve timing is on...Valve mark centered, Disty Side Cam gear mark up and passenger side down. Thanks for your time and help. [HTi]Johnson

My friend and I found a white brat in the wrecking yard, it was side swiped on the passenger side. It's tailgate is pristine, it has everything. It has the glass tops, 4spd Dual Range tranny, everything on the engine, inside is perfect...it's passenger window is shaddered. It had jumpseats....but my friend and I took em . Anyone want anything? PM me. Regards, [HTi]Johnson

1984 GL-10 Turbo OK i fixed it. But now, it lugs around 4kRPM like power cut out. Could it be a clogged cat(s)? It back fires. I'm sorry for lack of information and details...I'm tired. I don't have an air filter on and it's timed at 8'BTDC. I can't go faster than 50mph in third. When it is nuetral I can rev it out with no probs. Is there any common probs with these turbos? THanks [HTi]Johnson

Oh yeah...about the timing...there isn't a vacuum line coming off the disty...is that normal? And I have a place where a vaccuum line goes...in the back of the manifold...what's that? EDIT:: DANG I just read on the USMB Repair Section...Timing Belt Check and Adjustment. I installed the belts wrong.. I put both dots up at the same time...on the cam sprockets!! NO!! Damn Haynes manual...is probably says something about that...but I just looked at the pictures! AH MAN!

Did you check the timing? and how bad is the hesitation? And what kinda car? [HTi]JOhnson

Hey all. I have a 1987 Subaru GL-10 Turbo. I have a few questions. What makes the injectors fire? Is it the posistion sensor? And I believe my #3 cylinder is dead. IT wasn't before I resealed it. It has spark...so my guess is it's the injector. And how can I check to see if the injector is actually squirting? THanks all, it's been a long day. [HTi]Johnson

I've done a tranny swap on an 83 wagon and just finished an engine and tranny install in a Subaru Gl-10. What I would do about the engine swap I'd try to remove the engines and trannies as one. I would try to do it in one day so I don't forget anything. The lift... I believe you have to lower the engine crossmember and tranny crossmember. Therefore I'd pull the engine and tranny...set them aside and commence on the lift. SOrry if I don't make any sense. I just had 12hours of work on my Subaru GL-10. (I did an engine reseal and tranny swap.) I'm sure there's people with more/better advice. Good Luck and keep us posted. [HTi]Johnson

Not too hard, if you have two people. I just pulled the Down Pipe(from the turbo) and pull the engine with the turbo attached. [HTi]JOhnson

Where can I find the conversion info? to SPFI [HTi]Johnson

Hey I looked into the SPFI conversion...on the USRM and the link is dead. What carbs should I use? What is the simplest? Two Webers 32/36s or the equivelant to half (since it is splitting the intake by half) [HTi]Johnson

What's stopping me from running two carbs...one on each intake port? I know there is coolant lines running through those? ANy tips/shoot downs/incouragement? [HTi]Johnson

Thanks...i was thinking of using 2" tube...for the whole car...but a 20'ft bar is $2.50 a foot. $50 a bar. I'll look into 1.75" tube...it's .095 wall which would make the I.D. roughly 1 5/8 ". I am kinda limited to the die set my work has... Thanks...I'll post pics once it is done...if I ever get it done. [HTi]Johnson

The pump is by the tank, passenger side. I know you said you replaced the fuel filter. If this is like an EA81 Carb, there is two filters....one by the pump and one in the engine bay.

Hello. I have my motor back together (reseal) and I went to put the X over pipe on, I noticed it was fubar'd. All tore up and holes. So, I know that I could just get another from people on the boards...but I would like to make my own. With 2" I.D. pipe. Well the question is...should I make it the same as the original, or what? I've seen people do some crazy stuff....like use the same length of pipe for each port to the turbo. Does this really matter, to have each port go through the same amount of pipe before it goes to the turbo? I was also thinking of using 1.5" for the DISTY side to the turbo side port and then 2" to the turbo. Well, let me know what ya'll think. Thanks. [HTi]Johnson

What about the fuel filter in the engine bay? 85sub4wd...where is that about the SPFI? I looked, but I'm dumb. [HTi]Johnson

Yup, my subaru is getting a very early oil and filter change...like 2500 miles early.

I'd say you spun a cup. The Inner cup is spinning around the shaft...hence the funny noise you here. You should be able to do what mikie suggested with relative ease. You don't need to get on the ground. Just pop the hood and look. Keep us updated. [HTi]Johnson

there is a fuel filter in front of your rear passenger tire. Above a shield. Next to the fuel pump. [HTi]Johnson

I know people who used a carbed block in place of a turbo block. There is a risk of shiz breaking Due to the compression. But this car went 200+miles, rally-ed, and went another 250+ miles back home. No problems at all. So why not keep the turbo? [HTi]Johnson