avk

I know '97 control panel is different from '93-96 because recirculation flap is operated by cable, but the opening and trim should be the same. If so, the screws should be on the recessed surface of the bezel that surrounds the knobs, at 12 o'clock position facing straight down. The screws go in at an almost vertical angle so they aren't seen by people in the seats. If you still don't see any screw maybe the bezel is held only by the tabs, as '98+, but their dashboard is completely different.

This is very easy, the only thing to remove for access is the trim bezel with vents, held with two screws above the knobs and some spring tabs. You will see three bulbs in 1/4-turn sockets. The bulbs are type 74 and can be found in part stores.

The lower numbers are for the original, cylindrical tensioner design.

If those are the plastic stopper pins near the top corners of the door, they can be removed by carefully squeezing the prongs that hold them, or you can just try and squeeze the glove box itself to make the pins clear the slots. All this should be done in warm weather.

The square hole in the plug is actually 13 mm, but in Australia, shouldn't it be a standard size instead of half-inch?

There is another car on that list with the same body structure as Saab 9-3, it's Chevrolet Malibu. The difference in rating between the two must be due to side airbags.

Don't cut the hoses. They made them in one piece for a reason.

The box you're looking for is called illumination control unit. I don't know where it is on a Legacy. The variable resistor in the stalk changes its input voltage and the unit controls current in the main circuit. It sits on the ground side of it. I'd suggest checking both input and output voltages with a meter while moving the adjusting knob, then you'll know which component is bad.

I believe a marine epoxy paste will hold it. I used a product found at hardware stores, named PC-11, to attach to the roof a bracket for a Legacy map light. Has been holding for 3.5 years, car parked outside. It's thick enough to stay in the gap and gives you enough time to position the parts. Then there are specialized structural adhesives sold by body shop suppliers but they are necessary only for load-bearing parts.

A while back, someone posted a "limited time" log-in info for a certain site that has the information. That's not working anymore. The least expensive option for TSBs is an Infotraxx subscription sold through RockAuto. It will show in the parts menu after you select the vehicle.

Yes, it's also the same kind as on 1st gen. Impreza. Both aftermarket and Subaru-branded auto-dimming mirrors are the regular type with two ball joints that can only be mounted to the glass.

Charlie: I think a '97 still has a mirror mounted to the ceiling, is that right? There isn't an adapter for that type of attachment. As shown on scoobymods, you would need to remove the stock mirror, keeping the screw cover, and glue a standard wedge button to the windshield.

Buy a factory kit if you can find it, it's only $60-$70 now.

I did advertise one in the FS forum a while back, a late model Gentex unit, although that mirror has a standard wedge (dovetail) mount. But if you want to fit it on a '95, you'd have to glue a "button" to the glass anyway.

The 2" tube is a bolted-on reinforcement piece that connects left and right A-pillars (and makes some people wonder whether strut braces a.k.a. strut bars are really needed). It's not painted so maybe there was some grease for rust protection. I didn't notice any on mine but it's a '95 model.

So you like that Ford's Duratec? I haven't been near one myself.

Servicing it at Subaru shouldn't be a problem, except maybe for anything that requires look-up by VIN.

The procedure for original style, solenoid (not stepping motor) IAC valves is simply to disconnect the bypass hose from intake duct and pour the cleaner in it with engine running.

Yes, GM cleaner through by-pass hose. It was posted before.

This is from an aftermarket parts catalog, used by a number of vendors, in reference to phase I SOHC timing belt: Timing belt 13028 AA102 is exactly the same size as belt 13028 AA150 and can be used in its place as long as the different position of the crankshaft reference marks (dotted paint stripe) between the two belts has been taken into account (belt timing positions on California engines for this application are slightly different than those for Federal engines). Not sure I understand what they mean. Are the tooth counts between timing marks not the same between Cal. and non-Cal. belts? The service manual does not say about any difference.

Instructions for 1993-97 Impreza: radio.pdf

Tom: the OE boot I used came with a band clamp that required a tool, so I bought one. But I'm sure any style clamp will work, and probably they're all stainless.

Tom: that is correct, but you still need to unbolt something in the suspension to get enough room for the joint to slide off the stub shaft. I removed the front pivot bolt for the control arm, as it says in FSM.

If the two IACs are different, then one is Hitachi and the other JECS. It's true that Hitachi was used with manual transmissions and JECS with auto.

There is an article about that in Endwrench. It says Hitachi and JECS IAC valves are not interchangeable.