darsdoug

Yes I can relate. My 99 wagon is doing the exact same thing. I remember one of the moderators here was describing that issue. Something like the trans computer thinks the downshift has already happened and thus increases line pressure within the transmission causing a hard bang shift. Usually from 4 to 3.

My wife was paying for the parts. I didn't even want to go with the low cost graphite HG's from Ebay but followed her wishes. Catch 22 situation ya know. Everyone should be married. ha ha.

After replacing the headgaskets and enjoying a perfect running engine for a change I decided to check/replace the thermostat on my wifes 96 phase 1 EJ22 but I ended up snapping off one of the two 10mm bolts. My attempt to drill out the rest of the bolt was a pathetic pita and I only accomplished getting a metal shaving in my eye. Subsequently I ended up notching out one of the ears on the pump with my angle grinder so I could get a longer bolt and washer to grab thus holding the thermostat housing in place. It's gone a couple thousand miles so far without leaking but I just happen to have a good water pump from a 99 EJ22 phase2 block. Will it fit?

Look what I found in the glovebox today.

Whoa...! I sure hope the pistons in my 88 SPFI wagon doesn't have any stress fractures.

Hmmm? Thanks. I'll inquire further at Retroroo.com and see what Shawn can tell me? It's most certainly out of my realm.

How do I determine if they are in fact worn out OEM Subaru axles on the front of my 88 4WD wagon? Is it stamped anywhere?

So what are the years of EJ22 heads that you can bolt onto the EJ25D block and still produce a genuine non-interference engine as a result?

This may or may not help. IAC.htm

Jeez...it was just the pigtail at the crank sensor wasn't plugged in all the way. ha ha ha.

Changed the plug wires a few minutes ago and it's still having same problem. The old wires didn't have any oil on em. Right now I'm guessing a bad igniter on the firewall or bad gas? Contaminated fuel is exactly what it is acting like. I took a sample from the fuel line but it appears clear. A big tall pounder of it in fact. Could it be a crank or cam sensor? I'm not getting a check engine light.

I put the coil and new fuel filter on and it seems to have cured the problem about 95 percent but it still cuts out (with the pedal to the metal) around 5K RPM like it isn't getting enough fuel. I haven't put the new plug wires on yet but I'll get to that tonight. Question; the small plastic nipple on the purge solenoid that gets vacuum from the top of the intake was snapped off at some point so we plugged the vac line going to it. Could that maybe be a factor with the current issue ? see pic.

He already ran to the parts store and bought a fuel filter, new coil, and plug wires. He likes to throw money at it apparently? I'll put that stuff on tomorrow but personally I tend to gravitate toward the skipped timing belt scenario like you suggest. He said he had it scanned earlier today and that #1 and #2 were misfiring.

I replaced the HG's on my wifes 96 Legacy LS EJ22 with 274K miles last July and it runs just fine. Went with a cheap head gasket kit I found on E-bay for only $34.00 containing single layer graphite head gaskets, cam seals, etc. Havent had any problem's with it. No air bubbles coming up in the surge tank anymore. Actually little if anything comes up in the surge tank now. I shaved the heads the GD way. Saved a grip of money on that one. She drives it like NASCAR too.

This 5MT DOHC EJ25 OB is actually a low miles sub... about 140K. I helped the owner put new intake valves in it and it has been running just fine (like a swiss watch) until today. We installed a new timing belt and those pricey six-star HG's. It also has a brand new fuel pump that we installed last year. I know the owner put plenty of miles on it during the past ten days. It started bucking slightly yesterday on the freeway but it has gotten much worse. Presently it will idle o.k. but if you jab the throttle fast it just goes BLAHH and almost dies. So what could it possibly be? Any educated guess would be appreciated. Also; why would the title say it's a 99 when the manf. date on the door says 8/98? Isn't the cut off date/month normally Sept?

Does the fuel pressure remain constant at all four injectors while under load or accelerating? Sounds like the fuel supply is dropping off at injectors #1 and #2 ? Fuel pressure regulator? I think you're on the right track for sure. Determine the cause of failure and reap the rewards of victory.

Here's a 94 intake. Which one are you referring to?

You're welcome. Upon reflection I believe the valves were only about 14 to 16 bucks apiece. Still a hefty sum for the novice.

Previous attempt to replace a timing belt on a EJ25 had bent all the intake valves because the arrow on the crank sprocket had inadvertantly been set at twelve o'clock. We lapped in eight new valves this weekend and it runs good now. The new valves cost $220 at our local Subaru dealer. We sure won't make that mistake again. (expletive).

I have a pulley and a knock sensor from a 94 Impreza EJ22 you can have for free if you are still thinking about fixing your EJ22? A couple of small imperfections as you can see, but still in working order.

15 minutes worked fine. No more cel on.

I replaced the HG's on my wife's EJ22 and it runs good but now the cel is on all the time. Can I get rid of it by removing the negative battery cable for a couple minutes to allow the CPU to clear any codes?

Hmmm?..... So any valve float whatsoever at high RPM would be a bummer?

I adjusted the two intake lifters on #3 back to .020 and it fixed the tappet noise. I put a new filter and fresh oil in it and I must say it sounds as good as a new car. I checked Kelley Blue Book and they value it at around 3,800 in "fair" condition. I am a little concerned (in its present state) with only the four out of eight bellhousing bolts holding the engine to the transmission. I'm not going to the dragraces or offroading though so it should be o.k. It is still an interference engine? Correct?

I'm presently contemplating the 1999 OBW DOHC 2.5 HG project my son in law has put on a back burner due to improper timing belt installation and the subsequet bending of the valves. It's a 5 speed Manual transmission OBW and I'd like to know if that shortblock will mate (exactly) with the "Automatic" transmission bellhousing in my 2.2 1999 Legacy "L" wagon?