l75eya

Since I've had the 87 GL, the driver's side front wheel bearings have been an issue. - -Wheel slop (tire off the ground, I have play in the hub. Tie rod = tight. Ball joint = tight. Grab wheel at top and bottom and the whole hub moves..) - -Grinding/squealing noises that alternate between occurring sometimes when there is load on the drivetrain (while accel/decel) and sometimes only while free wheeling/coasting in neutral (down a slight hill; between gear changes) - -intermittent clunks - -And this: Apologies for the large resolution, I wanted the deformation of the wheel bearing hub (top) to be clearly visible. I do not have much experience with wheel bearings..or the steering knuckle this one is fit in to. Just by the look of that, is it reason enough to judge the steering knuckle is warped/deformed in some way that would require me to replace it? That's one of my main concerns.. The other is that the whole assembly comes loose in time; I tighten down the axle nut and everything seems okay After some miles the axle nut is loose again and the whole assembly has play and the bearings make noise. Today I took the whole hub off (not the steering knuckle though. Ball joint was not being co-operative) I did a quick visual and noticed that 1.) The grease packed in the bearings looked pretty cooked and dirty. It was new 10,000 miles ago. 2.) There was a lot of red powdery dust everywhere. Kinda like rust, but I'm not sure if it is rust. 3.) The damage to the hub noted in the picture above When I re-assembled everything, I put on a new beveled washer and I cranked the axle nut down as tight as I could (standing/jumping on the wrench. I'm 140. Should be pretty tight) I also packed some fresh grease into the bearing as well as I could without removing the whole knuckle. I am contemplating trying out ordering a new washer, the one with the slit in it. GD has named that part many times but I forget what it is actually called at the moment, though I do know from his and others' explanations on here that the tolerance and importance of that piece being within spec is very important and could also lead to some of the issues I have if it is not. Here's a picture of the dust and that slit-ed-ed-ed washer Sorry for the lengthy read, just trying to be thorough in my explanation.. Trying to finally get one of these last few quirks taken care of and thanks for everyone's time!

My mistake, it was awhile ago. As a matter of fact, this car is the pedestal of mistake for me, as in that previously mentioned post (where I thought it was for sale) I also mistakenly called it a hatch. Your car is schooling me my friend lol I would love to hear it, I mean I watched the quick dyno vid, but it's gotta be so much different IRL. Going through the gears, no clutch slip....that's going to be wild. Amazing build you have here, and what an awesomely unique approach you've taken with it too!

I remember when this thing was up for sale, wished I could have grabbed it, but glad I didn't! I must admit, I was a bit taken off guard when I clicked through this thread for the first time. Never seen that before! haha Excellent work, and amazing visual result. Bet you're dying to see the numbers without any slip. How loud/hot does it get in the cabin?

I do not know why the resolution on the camera was like..ALL the way down...but; What have I done in MY soobie lately? 100!!!!!!!!!! I know it's hard to see, but that's 100 MPH @ 6,000 RPMs The 3AT did it! Benjamin Hooptie Loyale for the first time has met and breached 100 mph topping out at 101. I was astonished. In other news; got my rear shocks done on the GL! No more bouncing half a block after driving over a speed-bump or being shot in to either the lane to the left or right of me randomly when driving over rough pavement! Safe cars FTW. :clap:

Check your fuel filters again. If you had the same gas in the car that caused this last time, maybe there's something in your tank clogging your filters.

How are your ball-joints?

Swap in the 5-speed. The 3AT is crap

You're probably going to want to get a shop to do it. I wound up just taking my struts off and bringing them to a garage for them to compress the springs after dealing with putzing around with the spring compressor tools I bought online. Granted, the tools I bought were cheap, so if you get a QUALITY spring compressor...you may be able to do it yourself.. But if you go through the trouble of taking the whole struts out of your car yourself, and just bring them to a garage, they shouldn't charge you more than like 20-50 max to compress and swap in the new shocks for you.

Plugging that hose seems to have helped my chugging and surging issues, as well. Hopefully I'll see a MPG bump! This was on an SPFI.

You can't tell me you think using a smart-phone mounted to your dash is as cool as that picture is a couple posts above? =P

Did you even have to plug it? Isn't the EGR valve opened by applying vacuum? It's ordinarily always closed, so I'm assuming the vacuum opens the valve. Reason I ask is I have a faulty EGR solenoid and was just thinking about doing what you mentioned because I have surging while accelerating and have been wondering if it's the EGR... After going out and taking a look, it's a real simple system. There's a hose leading to the solenoid from the manifold, there's the two wire electrical connector that activates the solenoid, and then there's the hose coming from the back-side of the solenoid that goes straight to the EGR valve, so if anything it seems you should plug the hose coming off the manifold so you're not losing any vacuum. This is on my SPFI ea82 though, I haven't looked at the EGR system on my carb'd ea82, though I should, considering it's parked. If it's a similar system (though I doubt it, carb'd ea82 doesn't have an ECU, correct?) I'd just snatch the solenoid off my GL and throw it on the Loyale. Just my .02.

lol, how was it *not* bad?!

haha, my CEL for my EGR went off on the 4th of july while coming back from the fireworks. I took a picture. it's back on now though

That's some archeological search digging you did there to find this lol

Said he saw the rotor spinning already, so it's not belts. That leaves your distributor, it's ignition module and the coil. I'd test the coil and then follow jeszek's guide above for testing the ignition module

My d/r pops out of gear too. I don't remember which one though...and I haven't driven it in awhile. Think it was 3rd..

+1 above and/or also your wheel bearings.

Took mine to Canada and back. You're in for a nice, high rev 65 MPH journey Let us know what your fuel mileage works out to!! lol

I think you should get rid of any bits of metal that are left in that lip that could come off and wind up in your cooling system. I also think you should just replace the pump, as you're going through the engine and a water-pump is relatively cheap to have on there new, but if you don't want to do that you can always use that one, get your build together, fire it up and see if it leaks. If it does, it's not that hard to replace; I mean you've torn the whole engine apart now lol, what's the big deal if you have to swap in a new waterpump after your done Sucks that happened though, don't get me wrong. Good luck!

That's good to hear... The front springs aren't the same story though...those things are pretty stiff Going to have to do the rears in the Loyale soon though, so chalk me up as grateful for that tid-bit too.

I'll give that a shot before I tear into it at all. Order up some boots and clamps and then clean the hell out of them, re-grease and re-boot and see how it goes. I've had success doing that before, but then again that was for a car being driven around locally. There's a looong haul in the future for these axles lol

LOL that's awesome

Haha! You must be relieved. I went through a similar thing with my GL. Same scenario 1987 46,000 miles Car had done a lottta sittin'.

That's crazy, comparing all the pictures, the 86 Canadian spec front bumper looks like a cross between the 87 spec US bumper and the 86 spec US bumper, haha!