JWX

and one more thing, are those rear "hats" (the thing that bolts the strut to the car) stockers? I'm guessing you bend the crap out of them rallying

so what are those agian? and how come you don't run camber/castor plates? oh and where did you get them?

so you don't think I'll need to re-surface my flywheel. and dropping the tranny seems like a hugh PITA, but if I do it that way I'd like to replace the shifter bushing.

so I finaly got a newer/better carb (still a Dellorto dhla 48, but a C this time and ready to bolt on and run, if I could just bolt something on and run ) and I can't get the damn throttle cable to pull the throttle plates open fully. any of you guys know a trick about getting around this?

truest thing evAr said

hmmm thats a good idea, but I'm not old enough to try it (I only be 19). dang it and BTW this is for my RX, which for you newbies out there would be an EA82T

oh and I doubt any of my friends would help unless WJM wants to come down and help.

what needs to be done to the flywheel? or can I just take it to the machine shop and tell them to machine it?

so what all should be done when one does a clutch? I've got new bearings and clips coming, but what else. and whats the best way for one to do it when he does not have an engine hoist?

not yet haven't had the time and I need to get the scraping/grinding noise taken care of first. I just bumped it so maybe DIS will tell us why he doesn't like speedbleeders. as I love them and I'm guessing you do aswell

I thought the same

bizump

but I can't see where it would be scraping at, but I'll have to have a better look

ok so its more of a scrap,scrap,scrap sound and it really only does it when you apply the brakes.

wish I could make it saturday. I'll be there sunday

well mine doesn't rub anymore

205/60/13 on the enkeis rubbed on the rear of my RX

its just soft, with the engine off its hard as one would expect but just driving around its soft. the car stops fine its just the pedal is soft. and why are the speedbleeders crap, do it sideways? I like them. I'm thinking it is the MC right now thou.

oh ya I forgot to add I bleed them with the engine on and off

ok lets start with the answers 1. RXs' had rear disks as they were/are turbos 2. speed bleeders all around 3. bleed in an X pattern like the fSM states 4. braided SS brake lines 5. new pads and rear rotors, turned the fronts 6. brake pads are PBR metal masters and rear pads are everstop metallic(sp) and more questions can I get more info on the worn brake caliper mount being worn. fronts are from the 89 parts, rears are factory I'm guessing so that could be it. and the Master cylinder is from the 89 aswell but could be bad, I'm going to switch it out with another one I have just to check. thanks for all the help

I figured it was too good to be true, as I already got myself with it in a dream .......................I need help

I've always thought the same thing even in my hatch. so if you do find a way ket me know. but I think the only way is with anothor motor or with another wiper control box.

blacks the better color

whatg would cause a soft/mushy brake pedal? I've bleed the ************ out of EVERYTHING (calipers, MC) and its still soft, the car stops fine its just the pedal feel it crap. car is the 88 RX

I've been seeing these coil packs (like tec 2 looking stuff), and have been trying to find info on them but no luck. anyways what about using these things with the MS and a CAS would that work? or would one still need a VR (I think thats what it is called) wheel?