hooziewhatsit

if you pull the hub cap off, the castle nut is the large nut in the center of the wheel. It should have a cotter pin through it. The book says it should be torqued to 140ft/lbs, however, the tighter you can get it, the better Personally I lean on the end of a 3' cheater bar and call it good. oh yea, leave the car on the ground when you tighten it. -Dave

Sounds like your castle nut is dangerously loose Even if you don't get a new axle, I'd highly recommend checking and tightening it as needed. (it's a 36mm) -Dave

The hole is on the C pillar, right where the shoulder belt pivot would mount to the car. Only problem is, I don't think there are any openings nearby to get behind it from. However, it has been a while since I looked at it. I do like that idea though! -Dave

I tore into a car without shoulder belts in the junkyard once researching this for my 88 GL. The holes are there, however, the nut on the backside is not. Soooo.... it will work if you feel safe mounting the bolt in just the unibody metal, unless we can find an easy and safe way to get a nut to thread the bolt into. (All that is for the upper mount for the shoulder harness). -Dave

I'm assuming the 6 is like the 4 in that you need to crank the engine over once in between the belts to get the cams 180* from each other. Common problem is to put both cam dots 'up', and put both belts on. That will cause several running issues, which it sounds like you have. -Dave

vice-grips work great to break the screws loose. After that you can usually get them by hand. -Dave

for the cruise control, I believe there's a vacuum operated thing right over the gas pedal in the car. I think the computer should be over behind the glovebox somewhere. There should also be a vacuum pump in front of the passenger side strut tower. I have no idea if everything will plug into a non-CC car or not. Relay for the power windows I've heard is under the passenger seat I'd grab the EGR/PCV solenoids, coil, etc, if their prices are decent. -Dave

A friend of mine installed the factory cruise setup into a '95 (?) legacy a couple years ago. IIRC, he said the CC computer went kind of behind and to the right of the glove box, not behind the heater stuff. In theory, the connectors should be there for it to plug into. So, I would think if you took out the kick panels and glove box, you should see something to plug it into. -Dave

bouncing idle is a classic IAC (idle air controller) problem. A search for "IAC " should turn up plenty of threads on how to clean it -Dave

To remove the dash above the steering wheel: -remove the two screws right above the cluster -On the left side of the dash, remove the plastic plugs in the corners of the rear defrost panel, then remove the two screws in the corners (not required, but makes it easier). -Remove the two screws in the heater controls (mirrored position to the rear defrost panel) -Remove the screw under the rear wiper control, and the one on the other side of the wheel Around the heater vents are tabs you'll have to pry out before the rest of it pops out. Then you'll have to unhook the ~8? connectors to stuff on the dash. The heater controls will stay hanging to stuff behind the dash. Behind the heater controls is a small hole to match a plug on the controls to help support it. It could be that's not lined up causing it to bind on stuff (MTSuby) Putting back together is opposite of disassembly. It can sometimes be fun pushing the connectors back in so theres enough room to fit the dash back on. -Dave

Even if there's no vacuum to the switch control, they should all press & latch like normal. You can remove the section of the dash right above the steering wheel & cluster to remove/check that switch control, rather than pulling the entire dash. -Dave

put your wrench/breaker bar onto a jack, and jack it up Then you can jump on the car if it still doesn't break loose from that. -Dave

On some cars, there is a connector under the dash you need to switch around. There should be three plugs near each other; disconnect the two that are connected, and plug in the other one. That should make it go out for 60k miles. -Dave

PMI, Here's how I think I would do it. Cover one of the slits, then MS will know where it is after one rotation of the disty. Then, in software, you can move TDC for each cylinder around, since you know where the covered slit is, and where that is in relation to the engine cycle. Then, you wouldn't have to move the covered slit around to change your timing; just do it all in software. You can even adjust the disty itself to change the timing. -Dave

So MS currently just uses the signal from the 4 large cutouts in the CAS wheel, instead of the 1* cutouts? It seems like it wouldn't be too hard to modify the code to run off those instead. I may also be interested in helping with the MS code as well... -Dave

That does kinda sound like it's running rich. Does it smell like it's running rich? How's the fuel mileage on it? I'll admit I'm just past a noob when it comes to carbs. If we can get some ideas to check on here, I'd feel a lot more comfortable messing with it. -Dave

Will the car make it over the pass to K. Falls? We could probably work something out. The brakes are easy enough to do; after you do them the first time that is (The first time I did brakes it took a few days ) Not sure about the other smoking issue though. Aside from a compression test... Is it an automatic or manual? -Dave

So the sprocket with the recessed area behind it was not closest to the engine? /clarification Interesting... I may have to tear into mine and check that as well... -Dave

turbo Automatics are 23 spline turbo 5-speeds are 25 spline non-turbo I believe should all be 23 spline

I cleaned the MAF a few months ago. Do have another one I could try swapping in, although that car had running issues as well. Removed the connector and several inches of bad wire to the CTS a while ago. Didn't seem to make a difference. Put a different TPS on last summer; thought it helped at the time. It tested fine. Haven't checked rotor/cap since last year (right after WCSS8). Have not checked the timing belts since I replaced them 40k miles ago They could very well be loose by now. That's the first thing I'll check once it stops raining. -Dave

update: A couple weeks ago I took my exhaust out, and am now sure that it's not clogged It did have a lot of fine dust fall out of it, and it looked pretty plugged up. It seems to have made a definite improvement; Hardly any off-idle hesitation & stumbling when cold and accelerating. It's still kinda twitchy when letting the clutch out when cold though That may be the O2 sensor though? -Dave

What kind of car is it? Looks like it's probably 55 EGR Temperature Sensor or Circuit, which would only be in CA cars. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918 What code do you get if you disconnect the white connectors? -Dave

Looking in the FSM I have ('85), the throttle is 'closed' if it is 2* (or less) open. So, I believe the stop screw needs to be set to leave the throttle plate open by 1.5* or so. Basically, so the plate is barely open. Then, you will want to adjust the TPS so that one set of contacts is connected until you open the throttle 2.5*. After that the contacts should be open (not connected). (the '88 TPS may be different than the '85??) The other contact on the TPS should then be connected when the throttle is opened beyond ~45* past that. Then, for SPFI, it says to disconnect the idle air controller, and adjust the idle to 550rpm. Then when you reconnect the idle air controller, it comes up to the 700+- 100rpm. (may be different for MPFI) I'll try to remember to take my friends car apart today to see how open the throttle plate is. (85 turbo). On my two SPFI wagons, the stop screw is set to leave the throttle just barely open. -Dave

A friend of mine got the complete dealer kit to install CC in his '95 legacy. Said it was a breeze to install. "Go here, plug this in, go there, plug that in", etc. Still had to install the cables and stuff to the throttle plate, but again, was just plug & play. The steering wheel switches even retrofitted well. ymmv, -Dave

I've fixed several cars just by adding another ground wire from the wiper motor to the body. Internally, they all looked fine. -Dave