el_freddo

I didn't realise there was a difference between Off roading and Wheeling - but I'm from Oz if that's an excuse. IF this was to happen I'd stick with my subaru. Probably build another L series and get it engineered so it's all legal over here. The setup would be EJ22, L series daul range AWD gearbox with locking centre diff, 4.11 diff ratio, scorpion 14 inch rims with a 27 inch tyre, 3 inch lift kit, air-bagged all round, rear manual locker, snorkel. Basically what I've got now (minus the air bags but I'm almost near the end of my build plan - after 7 years!) but with some refinement, a less abused body (this one's near 500k km!) and more care taken when offroading/rock crawling. I'd also weld the door frames and the window frames too for extra rigidity in the body: I would look into machining a better low range. I'm also surprised that no one has spoken about importing a dual range EJ gearbox from here or NZ - the L series low range makes an EJ totally different offroad! Superu will be able to tell you all more about that We've got a H6 converted liberty over here running a dual range gearbox with the low L series low range, front and rear LSDs and DCCD - I've not seen it offroad yet but apparently it's pretty much the ultimate offroad weapon! Cheers Bennie

I've now got a FT5spd L series gearbox behind an EJ22. It's been great so far and I think the best thing I did with it was fit an OBX front torsen LSD, I can get the front inside tyre spinning when accelerating around tight corners in the wet, but the LSD locks up and it's not a wheel spin that gets faster if I keep pushing. I've not used the centre diff yet and my dual range isn't hooked up to the cab. It's on the to do list. I'd be looking at doing what's been suggested with the single range EJ AWD box put into single range EA casings to bolt up to the engine. But there's still modifications required to fit the gearbox crossmember, gear shift lever and prop shaft... Cheers Bennie

I got away with using an 8mm hex deep socket to crack these bolts. The tool is just from a cheap socket set so I wasn't worried about it breaking - which it still hasn't! Cheers Bennie

Brumbyrunner (ausubaru.com) competing in the Finke Desert Rally, NT, Australia: Enjoy! Cheers Bennie

Yeah I don't like the plastic end tanks either - cost me a 9 month "old" rebuilt engine I've currently got a 3 core all copper/brass radiator but it's too big in capacity and size, when this one's dead I'll get a single or twin core as there's a new channel design that makes the coolant "bounce" up and down so it has to engage with the wall of the channel more rather than doing a straight through run where temp layers can occur. At least this is what the trusted guy at the local radiator shop told me - he's been good to me so far so I don't doubt him! Cheers Bennie

The banjo bolt idea is a much better way to go in my book. I only thought of the barbs as this is what we do with the inlet manifold etc when their hose tabs corrode out - I'm not a turbo boy but thought the suggestion might help out Cheers Bennie

Thanks Coxy, I'm in Oz! I'm not after all out power, just something to tinker with and create something a bit different - I'm sure the MPFI system will be better than a stock carb setup - that and I'm going to do this cheaply using parts I already have. An adaptor will need to be made for the throttle body and some custom fuel lines etc - it shouldn't be too hard, just time and some fun. The aim is also to be quickly reversible if needed to go back to the carb setup - just in case! A mate got me onto that supplier, seems pretty reasonable I reckon. Anyway, I'm looking forward to his as it should be a good bit of fun and hopefully a good economical little runner at the end of the day! Cheers Bennie

Use one of these appropriately sized: Sorry about the image size, I've borrowed it from another site... This is what I meant by aftermarket tab - I couldn't remember what it was called, but it's a barb over here... Ummm... I'm talking about coolant, not oil! I would recommend an oil cooler too - not that I've got an EA82T, as mentioned it's a mate's EA82T and it must work as it's his daily drive for work, the other is his dedicated offroad tourer with the same engine setup. I hope this clears things up a bit! Cheers Bennie

Did the MPFI EA81 go well? And why did you drop an EA82 in there? That's a backwards step in my book! Cheers Bennie

Can those hose connections be drilled out, tapped and an aftermarket tab put in there? Just trying to think outside the box. Also to help with general coolant temps I've got a mate that has put a small motorcycle radiator between the turbo's return line and the engine - the radiator mounts neatly out the front of the stock AC radiator up front. He's done this with both of his EA82Ts and reports no heat issues in summer stop start traffic (35+ deg C). Cheers Bennie

Three main things to think about with the EA82 and the cooling system: 1) Is the radiator clean and in good condition? Over here I destroyed an engine with a blocked radiator - it was over 50% blocked when the end tank let go due to age and heat cycles. Get your radiator rodded (remove an end tank and carefully clean out each cooling channel with a fine metal rod), or get a new radiator if it's old. 2) Water pump - if in unknown condition it's a good idea to get it sorted with a new one. I prefer the cast iron impeller rather than the pressed metal one - for the reasons mentioned above 3) Thermostat: Make sure it's still working properly - test it in a pot of water on the stove, suspend it in the water rather than sit it on the bottom of the pot - sitting it on the bottom of the pot will create inaccurate results as the heat from the heat source will be greater than the temp of the water, so if it's faulty it can appear to still be opening at the correct water temp. Also make sure you've still got the little pressed metal plates under the radiator/engine on either side as these help create a low pressure air system in the engine bay to draw air through the radiator when moving - sitting in traffic they don't do much Hope this helps! Cheers Bennie

Awesome work mate! With the engine up that high, how are you going to do the drive shafts down from the gearbox to the hubs? I'm thinking you might be using a divorced transfer case but can't work out how that would actually work... I'm curious! Cheers Bennie

No worries guys, thanks for the heads up I might just stick with modding a set of stock heads with a screw in injector boss... I'm still some time off starting this project Cheers Bennie

You wouldn't happen to be keen to send a set of matching heads my way would you (Oz)? The only problem I can see is that this project is about being a tight arse, I hope I don't offend if they are offered and I turn them down due to the cost. Regards Bennie

Check your cam tensioner pulley mounting bolts. I've seen several that have come loose and sound like a knock in the bottom end. Hopefully it's something as simple as this... Gearboxes - the EJ AWD would be the easiest to find. You can fit one of these in an L series gearbox casing without any troubles - just need a single range EA gearbox to use the front casings on the EJ box. The speedo drive gear on the EJ gearset is different to the L series one, so your speedo might be out unless you can work out what follower gear is needed. Then you'll need to mod the gearbox crossmember, shifter linkages and prop/tail shaft. By putting the EJ internals into an EA set of casings you end up with a bolt on AWD gearbox to an EA82 with the stock clutch setup... Clear as mud? Cheers Bennie

For the radiator? I believe the TS183 is the one in the radiator to trigger the thermo fans. This isn't interchangeable with the temp sender unit. Cheers Bennie

Very normal! It would kind of be like disconnecting your diaphragm and seeing if your body still operates as expected... You should probably also reset the ECU after doing this, otherwise you may get a check engine light or a stored code. Cheers Bennie

Easiest would be to drop in the single range 4 speed, it'll bolt straight in from what I know. That would work, just make sure you don't slip it into 4wd Cheers ​Bennie

No worries, I've been trolling Google images and have found a few good ones. But if you could still take those pics and get those measurements that would be awesome help in working out what I'm going to do. Been looking for injector bosses but can't find anything that looks like it would suit my needs. Cheers Bennie

There is an EA82 MPFI "spider manifold" that points the throttle body towards the firewall much like the EJ's do. But that should be able to be unbolted and placed where ever you want. With the NA and turbo MPFI "run of the mill" EA82s the throttle body is positioned straight up. This part should be relatively easy to move to where I want it come the day I get to this point. I would be using the hot wire MPFI system for the management on this engine - only because I've got a couple of setups stashed in the shed. Will EJ20 pistons actually fit in an EA81? I'd reckon that the EJ18 would be more like the go due to the same capacities if they were to fit at all - or do you have to more out the EA81 block for them to fit? Drilled oil feed holes - on the piston head or for the turbo? Just curious! The tick tick ticky tick drives me nuts with the EA82s! I love how EFI setups look after them selves, return good fuel economy and good performance when needed. I'm hoping the EA81 MPFI will do the same thing with the same EA81 reliability they're known for! That's the aim. Cheers Bennie

Yeah it is interesting. Will have to do some research on this one and see what I can dig up over here to play with! Cheers Bennie

I believe the autos use a sort of clutch pack arrangement to engage 4wd. If these are worn out you won't get any drive to the rear end. How ever if you get one that's never been used offroad they're pretty bloody tight when engaged in 4wd! As for the wiring, make sure everything on gearbox is connected and undamaged - one broken wire and the system won't work as I'm sure it's all electrical even with these old non TCU operated autos. Cheers Bennie

It's greatly appreciated! Sounds about right Ivan, I didn't know the trick with the lower radiator hose. Why do you specifically need an '85 EA82 throttle body? I was going to adapt an MPFI one to keep it all related to the wiring harness and associated sensors... Regards Bennie

That's awesome mate! Could I please be a pain and ask for the last photo to be reshot and have one from the front and rear of the head to look at angles a bit better? I'm also keen to see what the factory fuel lines look like since you've got them in that last pic; and the last thing, a measurement for the face of the injector boss that's cast into the heads, how high it sits off the outside of the casting. This is pretty exciting stuff for me over here as we never got the EA81T from factory, even their heads are super rare! Does anyone know of injector bosses that can be purchased to have welded in place like the above? I'm wanting to do this to a set of NA heads as a shits and giggle project. If not I guess I'll have to machine up a set. Thanks heaps for the pics and help so far BRATMAN! Cheers Bennie

It will rotate the correct way. The IFS diff in the toyotas effectively runs backwards to what the gears are cut for - I can't remember the technical term is for this. Anyway it can work, the hardest part will be working out how to attach the rear drive shafts and how to make them shorter and still have the full movement of the rear suspension. The long shaft of the IFS is removed, 6mm shaved off it's mounting face and then you'll be able to fit a matching oil seal and output shaft that's used on the other side from factory. I've done the research on this, just haven't had the time to play with it. Once this is sorted out there are a range of diff ratios available from factory and aftermarket, and the lockers... well, that's the aim of the whole thing! Mounting it in the rear wouldn't be hard to work out, lengthen the prop shaft and you're sorted. I've thought about this combination for quite some time, even have an IFS yota diff in the shed to play with that I've not had time for Sorry for the hijack! Cheers Bennie