el_freddo

And it doesn't have to be slapping much to make that noise! Cheers Bennie

I think you'll find that unless you install a largish tank it won't really work as intended. To do this you first need to work out if the pump is high volume low pressure or low volume high pressure. If high volume low pressure you'll be in business. If it's the other way around it'll take ages to replenish the tank after one or two tyres are filled. Best to convert an AC pump for this job - or just go with an off the shelf electric pump hooked into a larger tank with a pressure switch and some neatly placed air fittings on the car for easy access Cheers Bennie

You'll never see an awd brz, the engine is too far back - part of the reason why it's rwd. The other reason for the engine being so far back is for weight balance front to rear. Toyota and Subaru decided to let the market decided on forced induction since the wrx platform took off in the aftermarket department for go faster bits back in the day. It'll probably turn out to have the same sort of lifespan as the Mazda mx5 if global sales keep up. Cheers Bennie

Find a boss/friend/landlord that lets you have two or more cars. They can't dictate that to you over here! Cheers Bennie

We only ever got the JDM's over here as grey imports, same drivetrain as the rxii coupe - turbo awd Cheers Bennie

You can change the final drive ratio - some won't like this but I've done it anyway: Cut and shut on the pinion shaft to the desired ratio. My L series runs the RX dual range AWD locking centre box with 1.59:1 low range (plus oil feeders over the low range to keep it cooler on long climbs), phase two EJ front cases and matching gearset, EA AWD pinion shaft modified to 4.111:1 ratio, EA AWD centre diff lock. It can be done but the cut and shut bit is the expensive part. With the use of the DCCD centre this box build is basically obsolete over here. To fit the 4.111:1 crown wheel I had to shave part of the teeth to clear the large gears of the 1.59:1 low range. If going 4.44:1 you have to shave off more, but I've heard/read that you're not interfering with the pinion and ring gear's contact area. Best would be creating a low range before the centre diff that's more inline with a "tradtional" 4wd gearbox. But that's more $$$$s plus R&D time. Cheers Bennie

Notch the cam covers, done. Yes a small gap each side of the engine for crap to get in but most EJ20 turbo/DOHCs don't see a lot of offroad action. Cheers Bennie

I'd go with an intercooler, a water to air unit is subtle and doesn't require a hole in the bonnet for air to pass through the intercooler. With such a rare Subaru, I wouldn't be pushing that engine too hard for performance. We didn't get any turbo MY's over here so you're pretty lucky! Look after it, keep it running sweet as I believe it'll only appreciate if kept in the right condition Most of all, enjoy a very unique subaru! Cheers Bennie

I was going to do the same but using a set of VL commo electric mirrors as they were square and slim - and back then readily available in the parts yards. But I never got around to this, it was the last mod to do on Sunnie the Brumby in the comfort department for my mother inlaw - but she's pretty happy with the way it is. We've now upgraded the factory seats to Honda Integra DA9 units. They fit really well, look good and "hug" you when you sit in them Glad to hear you've got the 6 gauge and intermittent wipers. These two things are what I need to do with my brumby, but finding a good dashboard to house the 6 gauge in is proving difficult on a small budget... Best of luck with the mirrors, I reckon it'd be a sweet little addition to the brumby modernisation project! My other issue is also where to put the switches for the electric mirrors as the Auto up/down window switch takes up one prime location just near the ignition barrel and on the other side of the column has the driving light's switch. I'm also gearing up for the 5 speed conversion on Sunnie the Brumby, I think I've got everything I need except for time :/ Cheers Bennie

Have a read of this build, post 16 would be the one to read about how they did the WRX front end in the brat. A guy over here did a full conversion like this to the GLF hardtop (coupe). He grafted in the whole WRX firewall to make a lot of things easier and to run the WRX climate control gear in the cab with the matching dashboard. Turned out really neat (and is up for sale again) but unfortunately all his pics of his build are lost on the interwebs Cheers Bennie

What's the go with the area between the valves on the top combustion chamber in the second pic? That doesn't look right to me... Any cylinders drop a pile of coolant when you removed the head? Cheers Bennie

What a dilemma... Glad it's not me (sorry). I'm one of those lucky ones, while she might not pitch in to work on them she's happy for me to go yarding etc to keep our small fleet going (or parts gathering for projects). Of the two I'd go with whichever vehicle you enjoy looking at the most or that you like to work on the best. I've got my fleet but it's missing an RXII coupe - that never landed on our shores ;( Cheers Bennie

All coolant hoses, including those little painful ones around the intake manifold. If the sump gasket looks like it's leaking resealable the oil pump - and remove the crank pulley to do this! Don't be lazy as it'll cost you an oil pump Cheers Bennie

I did it years ago as a temp rad... its a different height to the L series, got close to the EA82 and in general was not a very nice looking setup... N13 or N14 (can't remember now) pulsar rad on the other hand, nice fit once moved over to clear the EJ22 cam cover. Got a dual core unit and it handles temps very well even with my crappy bash plate that does nothing to help create negative pressure in the engine bay to help draw air through the radiator... we drove across the Nullarbor in 43 degree heat with AC cranked and the car fully loaded without any issues Cheers Bennie

To increase brightness with the factory lights on my brumby I've installed a new wiring system that improves the amount of voltage/current at the lights. It uses a set of relays that reference the original system to reduce the path the power has to take and do this with newer wiring. The results are chalk and cheese in comparison. Well worth the $20 from China even though I had to swap some wires around so that all my high beam lights came on when they should (quad lights) rather than having the high beam only lights come on with the low beam at the switch. It was heaps cheaper than me buying all the parts and doing it myself. I haven't tried LED headlights even though they're available as an aftermarket item. And I wouldn't touch HIDs with a 90 foot barge pole. Such a spoob light source that everybody raves about :/ Cheers Bennie

Inner CV spline count on box is different - 25 spline and larger diameter. Gearbox mounts or matching member mods required, longer tail shaft or L series two piece unit fits with a mount made for the centre bearing and gear selector linkages may need mods to fit. Flywheel needs attention to mate L series clutch pressure plate. Basically search info for L series 5spd conversion as that's basically what you're about to do Cheers Bennie

Dirty... love it The issue is either module or coil. I don't think you should have a resistor in the system since it's got a module. Someone correct me if I'm wrong! Cheers Bennie

The way I'm about to do this is use the L series gear selector and weld up the 4wd lever to keep the Brumby's factory 4wd lever. Now wishing I got a factory 5 speed gear knob - I didn't think about that all those years ago when glf5 coupes were in the parts yards... We've got the same list of mods in one of our Brumbys, the second one is the up and coming, basically headed in the same direction Some things you're "missing" on your list are intermittent wipers and the 6 gauge cluster/long dash and aftermarket additions of cruise control (best mod ever if you drive a lot!) and (on day to be remote) central locking Cheers Bennie

I just remember it this way: square plug = better than round plug Cheers Bennie

Don't get me started on the "added safety" technology that actually reduces the drivers need to know how to actually monitor what's going on around them as they "drive"... Then there's the canbus system where one thing in the car goes a bit funny in operation and the whole car has a hissy fit. HGs will be a thing of the past - because cars will be disposed of before they can blow a head gasket :/ Cheers Bennie

What ever the machinist takes off the top they need to do the same on the plate surface. If off-roading it's not good to lighten the flywheel. If performance go for it Cheers Bennie

Good used one fixed the issue because I replaced the coil with a new stupidcheap one. The unknown module was then fitted and everything worked. Theory is the dead coil killed the new module. Not a dead new module. But I'll be talking with my parts guy to see what can be done - worth a try and I've been buying from these guys since I was 15! Should've asked for stocks in the store back then Cheers Bennie

The voltage comes from the wire from the igntion barrel when in the start position only. The solenoid does not give voltage. You need to test the wire from the ignition. But if you've already got it cranking this test is redundant. You now need to look at spark - coil, dizzy module if it's got one (being an '85 it won't have the optical gear in it). Check the coil and replace if needed before going and replacing the module Cheers Bennie

Ok new information from my end. Last week my brumby stopped dead in its tracks. Turned out the module in the dizzy died - because the coil let go. So I killed a good module in the process of working out that the coil was bad. I also ran a jumper wire in the plug for the rev sensor unit that triggers the fuel pump. I guessed which wires ran the pump, for mine it was the two thickest wires, both black wires, one with a white trace. This made my fuel pump run whenever ignition was on. Before I got my brumby running again I reversed this mod as it confirmed that the fuel pump was good. New coil then new module (2nd hand one now that I killed the new one ), fired up first kick and hasn't looked back Cheers Bennie

Awesome work mate. Hats off to your thorough and patient approach, I think it's all paying off for you and the BRAT. Keep up the good work and I look forward to seeing the finished product Cheers Bennie