el_freddo

Are you sure the coolant isn't running down from somewhere higher up on the engine such as the heater crossover pipes? Coolant may be running then hanging on the bottom of that gudgeon pin plug where it is either seen or leaves a distinctive mark. Cheers Bennie

I wouldn't call that oil seepage. Looks more to me like general engine dirtiness. As for oil consumption - what is too much? These engines were notorious for leaking oil an/or coolant externally through the head gasket. I would be looking for leaks on the engine if it's only losing a little bit of oil between changes. If you're having to top it up from the low mark several times between oil changes then there's most likely a bigger issue at play. I would start with replacing the PCV and see if there is any change in oil consumption. Cheers Bennie

Get the proper fusible links as soon as you can. Running regular wire could cause a fire. If nothing works after that bridging effort, I'd be checking plugs above the drivers feet - starting with the ignition barrel's connection. Cheers Bennie

Welcome to the forum. Less caps lock please, although I bet you're pretty excited about finding this forum so can understand the need for caps lock The sub forum for the Old Gen 80s subarus excluding the EJ series is where you need to be for your issues. Be sure to add in any details that you can, including the type of vehicle you have I'm looking forward to seeing you having your ride sorted Cheers Bennie

I'd also look at blowing compressed air back through the feeder fuel lines. Disconnect at fuel pump so that's not going to be damaged. And blow back from pump hose from fuel tank. Any crud in the lines that's impeding flow will be blown out hopefully. It's a good idea to give your tank a thorough clean after this procedure A few blokes over here had the same sort of issue with their brumby/MY wagons. This was the common fix. Cheers Bennie

Don't forget to lube the O ring with some rubber grease. You don't want them to be chewed out by two dry metal surfaces during fitment Expensive rubbers to shag a set out and have to do it all again! Cheers Bennie

Fusible links are in the brown box mounted off the coolant overflow bottle Give them a gentle tug and wiggle. If they fall apart there's you're issue. Cheers Bennie

Sorry to be the bearer (schpelling?) of bad news but I believe custom lines or a bend to the ea82 lines is required. My gut feeling is custom lines - or adaptor fittings do the trick if available. From ea82 to EJ Mr Fuji was looking after us Cheers Bennie

Hey Gloyale, How did you remove the instrument's indicator needles without breaking them? And how do you intend to refit them properly in the correct rotational location? You've got me curious! Keep up the good work Cheers Bennie

You'll also add a tonne of weight with the 6 speed. Not worth it if you're not going to be leaning heavily on the box, which is what this box seems to be designed for. Cheers Bennie

Neat project with a twist! I don't know about racing regs in NZ - but I do know that at least in some, if not all racing classes in Australia that CAMS will not licence/certify a vehicle for racing if it's got a sunroof that's glass. I don't know about the moon roof etc. I mention this as you've got the "targa top" brumby body in use there. Settlement creek racing was going to use the same brumby type for off-road racing until CAMS told them otherwise in their initial inquiries about their build. I hope it's not the case with all the work you've already put into this beast! Cheers Bennie

I bet it's just a dead seal or an unseated seal that's been pushed out from high oil pressure or incorrectly installed seal. They're clearly ignorant towards their clientele or pegged you as an easy target for this sort of thing. Also if they have one head off I'd be asking to have the other head removed, both shaved to equal height before new head gaskets are installed. They should know to replace BOTH head gaskets is best practice and about 95% of the work to do this is done to pull the other head anyway. Damn shame you've agreed to have the work done. I wouldn't be paying until they produce your old head and show you exactly what's wrong with it. If possible take a mate with some mechanical knowledge or pay a qualified mechanic to go with you "as your mate" to pick up your vehicle and check the head. Any mechanic worth their weight should have no problems showing you your dead parts and allowing you to take them for assessment. My bet is the dealer has disposed of your "dud" head already... Cheers Bennie

You can. As for specifics I'm not up with those specs to fit it though. Cheers Bennie

No need to belt these when using a pin punch and mallet. Patience is key. And yeah I may not have been very good at gauging the scale of that pic. I was also thinking of the 25 spline stub size as this is physically larger than the 23 spline stub. I'd reckon it'd be a more universal tool if made to fit the 25 spline stub axle. Much like your gearbox stand it's a cool idea and looks much more graceful than my rear bearing retainer bolt remover mk1... Cheers Bennie

I presume this is used when the front diff is removed? I can't see how the diff stub axle would fit in the pipe's hole. I've always found gentle persuasion with a flat end pin punch and a mallet does the job Cheers Bennie

I've not had an issue with the Nolathane bushes on my rear swing arms of my L series. They lasted about 200k km with quite a bit of offroading in there too. I think this event ultimately began their demise: Mind you, with that said, the above event happened in 2010 and the bushes were swapped out in 2016 and they were obviously well worn by that point. New units are in there now doing what they do best Cheers Bennie

I had a similar issue. Thought it was the igniter so added a heat sink to it (EJ conversion in an L series). Shortly after this with all going well the fuel pump packed it in good and proper. I had suspected the pump was getting too hot/something not working well when the drivetrain temp "got hot" in slow low range sand work. Heat sink on igniter and a new fuel pump sorted my running issues. The fuel pump did give a slow death/stall symptom, not a dead straight cut out as we were only going slow. But when pump gave up on the open road the engine died pretty quickly. Cheers Bennie

I've never had an issue with mineral oil in my gearboxes. 2x Brumby, L series (off-roader) and my sister's liberty are all running a Penrite mineral gearbox oil of the required viscosity. No issues. Both brumbys shift nice too. The two other boxes are much nicer than the 4 speed to begin with. L series runs a modified phase2 box. No cold shifting issues like the original L's 5speed. I've never heard of this "mineral oil in gearboxes is not good for the box" type mantra. Sounds a bit like saying petrol isn't good for cars... Cheers Bennie

I wish!! Cheers Bennie

What's your compression look like? And when was your PCV changed last? Cheers Bennie

^ remove the * from the last coding bracket. The trick is working out how to share the photo on a forum - you'll need to find the specific code on your photo account to share it as using that link address doesn't work, nor does the one once the image is displayed in your account on my screen. So it's something you'll have to find within your photo account to see it on the forum I hope that's clearer than mud! Cheers Bennie

It really is the truman show at times... Cheers Bennie

The aftermarket wheel bearings have the roller surfaces as one complete unit, the spacer on the axle is typically built into the bearing eliminating the extra rings - basically making a 6 part bearing into a three part bearing package. It's the same kit at the L series. No part numbers from me I'm sorry. As for the brake slave cylinder - I just go with what my parts store gives me for my year of vehicle. Just make sure you do both at the same time with the same part number and you can't go wrong. Cheers Bennie

Mate, my ultimate Subaru to own!! But we didn't get them down here Another mate is selling one but it's bad timing for me atm One of three known units in Oz too!! Keep her alive, she looks real sweet in the dark red/maroon! Drivetrain specs? SPFI/turbo AWD?? All the best with the repairs. Dog act! Cheers Bennie

_ is the long flash o is the short flash for the ECU codes Simple and effective I thought I'd be doing what idosubaru has suggested Cheers Bennie