Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

el_freddo

Members
  • Posts

    4111
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    119

Everything posted by el_freddo

  1. Dead cat converter. When these break up internally they can rattle around under load. Give it a gentle tap and listen for rattles. As for steam if it's cold weather you will naturally see vapour out the exhaust until the engine and exhaust pipe has heated up properly. At least that's how it works down here. I know in some parts of the states the exhaust always gives off vapour in winter due to how cold it is and the exhaust pipe not getting up to full temp. If you've got coolant in the cooling system and your exhaust smells like something sweet but not right sweet you've got a coolant leak into the combustion chamber which usually means a head gasket. Cheers Bennie
  2. Just go factory efi for something different for you Jono. No need to adapt anything except a couple of fused wires to mate the EJ harness to the L series harness. No need to tune it either Cheers Bennie
  3. Going back to the original question at hand. It's been bugging me... I'm 99% sure that Tim ran an EJ turbo conversion in his MY and this is the reason for the one inch spacer - you need this to allow the bonnet to clear the intake manifold which is different to the NA EJ. Do some more research. I reckon you'll find that any EJ turbo conversion in a non lifted MY will have these spacer blocks on the engine crossmember. But NA EJ conversions will not have them. Cheers Bennie
  4. I think a lot of the carb EJs went to Latin America and probably to the old European block countries. All of our EJs are injected including the EJ18 that came in some early front wheel drive imprezas. I don't think we got the ej16 here but have heard they exist. Cheers Bennie
  5. Read up on Phinzinza's EJ25 carb setup on off-roading subarus (his forum). He made an adaptor to fit some common dizzy to. I'd imagine anything Honda that's run off the cam might work too... Cheers Bennie
  6. 1991 EA81 Brumby (targa). Noticed the little symbol on the coil while hooking up some lights. Cheers Bennie
  7. Hmmm I always thought the tappet gaps closed as the engine gets hotter due to the push rods expanding when hot... Anyway, if it works for you stick with it. I have one tappet that I just cannot adjust correctly. I can put up with one ticker Interesting about the pinging at light throttle under load. I've been trying to work out how to cure this in my mother inlaw's brumby. I haven't had it occur in my brumby - yet... Cheers Bennie
  8. Bookface happened... Gregory's manual has some good information on the SPFI I'm sure you can find a digital manual online to follow... Cheers Bennie
  9. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I'm 99% sure on the early auto EJ ECUs there's a particular pin you ground to tell the ECU that it's a manual gearbox. I've not read too much into it as the loom I've played with is from a manual. I like where you're going with this thinking but I reckon you'll run into issues with error code for injectors. Someone may know a way around this, most likely with a resistor of a certain ohm rating per injector. It may need the TPS hooked up. AFM who knows... Have a read on Ausubi (use Firefox or old version of explorer) with the EDIS system the Silverbullet has setup on his EA81S in his wagon build. I don't think it's really that financially involved. The biggest hurdle for him was creating the crank sensor's wheel. Cheers Bennie
  10. Sparkyboy - Jono is in Oz. We only get efi and dual port across all EJ engine phases. Any factory carb EJs are imports. Jono the difference in phase one and two engines is that the phase one has hydraulic lifters and the phase two roller rocker style actuation. From phase two I believe all EJs are interference engines. All boosted EJs are considered interference due to the two cams that freewheel if the cam belt snaps, I've never heard of a properly maintained EJ snapping a cam belt. EA82s on the other hand... EJ conversions work very well in EA vehicles when done properly. Key is getting the wiring cut down done right the first time Cheers Bennie
  11. Don't get me started on what the media and policy makers believe about older cars! I wish you'd post this on an Oz forum, I'd be keen to see what others have to say. If you can't use, or dot want to return to Ausubi (need an old internet explorer version or modzilla Firefox to access atm) you could try out Subyclub.com - they're mainly into EJs but do love a good brumby build thread and being educated about EAs Cheers Bennie
  12. I just glued a UHT milk lid to my door and that sorted my door switch Cheers Bennie
  13. XT as in vortex? Can be done. Just depends on how low you're willing to go below the "E". I once drove from Radelaide to Woodend in Vic (about 740km) "on one tank" with a NA MPFI EA82 in Ruby Scoo. Before other mods the EJ did the same but with much better power delivery Cheers Bennie
  14. This is common knowledge. Do some research as to how people go about this mod - it can be done to look very factory Or drop the SOHC EJ22T in for no chassis mods. Cheers Bennie
  15. It's a piece of piss Jono. Mine's been running without issue other than the usual servicing requirements for 8 years - it's been well abused beyond what any EA could take in that time! Worth the effort but I do believe in factory management. Steve, what I don't understand is how it's running factory management and not running right. Something must have been missed - different timing marks on the cam wheel for the cam angle sensor for the turbo variant? Sounds like something's not running right - like an injector isn't healthy, or the TPS isn't dialed in properly. Could be many things :/ Personally I think aftermarket management will only over complicate things. Cheers Bennie
  16. I hope there's a positive update on this soon! Cheers Bennie
  17. Welcome Gillies, interesting project! Where exactly do you hale from? I'm keen for some pics too (we love pics!). Cheers Bennie
  18. Give these a go Jono: Same as timeserts but are available in Australia and in different sizes, I grabbed this image for "display purposes" We've used them on a few things but I can't remember the specifics. I believe they spread the load with the larger diametre insert. Cheers Bennie
  19. Don't get rid of it! Rear end - shove a set of 80's civic/prelude front end springs on the rear shocks. Job done You'll probably find the rear springs are on their way out with age and that you're hitting rough tracks harder with the prowess of the EJ Cheers Bennie
  20. Interesting. I don't have an issue with either the L series or the MY wiper motors... Cheers Bennie
  21. Did the patch link work for you? I like your style don't ring it every gear change and it should be right for some time to come Add a second injector that activates with boost to keep the AFRs happy if need be... Cheers Bennie
  22. DL is the non tacho L series model. The GL (touring wagon) is the one that came with the tacho. If you're super keen you can wire in the touring wagon's instrument cluster but it's a bit of work! Or do what I did and swap in a complete MPFI touring wagon loom All L series are combo lights in Australia. Only the MY/brumby models came with the quad lights except for Guyph's L series in WA that sports a set of American quad lights that he imported A lot of parts are interchangeable between the L series but be aware of the series one models - interior instrument/dashboard controls are different. The series two is better Cheers Bennie
  23. L series with the ea82. Don't stress if you break a cam belt as they're a non interference engine. Clean up the guts of the old belt and slap in a new set, properly align the cams and you'll be off once again. I hope you don't have the lifter tick. That drove me nuts! An EJ22 is a good remedy for this. Cheers Bennie
×
×
  • Create New...