el_freddo

That seems better Use the direct link and the codes for posting an image: img direct link /img <- put square open and close brackets around the two img codes and your image will be displayed Cheers Bennie

Dual and single range are both the same dimensions, so no difference in fitment Cheers Bennie

Good luck without destroying them at this age! Have a new set on hand if you're going to try and remove your ones. Cheers Bennie

Roger that. Makes sense now Not fun I bet! OP - hang out for a dual range box - unless that's a single range AWD box and you don't need low range. Cheers Bennie

There should be a small dowel or two to stop the pressure plate from moving like that carfreak. Cheers Bennie

Yeah after re-reading your posts I'm not sure where I pulled that from either :/ Glad it's AWD, only way to go in the snow IMO - and yes, Australia gets snow (yet some still don't know this fact!) in a very small area - and I've had the pleasure of driving on it in my L (locked in 4wd), it was awesome. No salt on our roads due to the fragile alpine environment. I hope it serves your daughter well for many years to come Cheers Bennie

We picked up a liberty over here on an ebay auction for just over $1G with a "blown head gasket". Got it home, topped up the coolant, threw a battery in it and took it for a drive down the road and back again. Found a green fountain shooting across the engine from the upper radiator pipe. Replaced it and off we went without any issues Cheers Bennie

My Brumby's power steering came from an '84 touring wagon - has a rag joint and a Uni joint. Same for our other converted brumby. Both have rag joints. Yours hasn't been swapped for another double Uni joint unit in it's life?? Cheers Bennie

And mod the radiator to take the larger hoses of the EJ - and make the rad pipes a bit more hose friendly with an angle added to them to "point" towards the engine outlets. And make/source the adaptor plate or fit the AWD box (can be a good mod in Oz since we get the dual range setup). Cheers Bennie

Copper core plugs such as NGK will be fine. I totally forgot about swapping mine on the 22 for ages - as in 100k km ages. No running issues what so ever - but I may have worked the coil pack harder as the gap increased. For a sale I'd do a set of decent quality plugs over a set of expnsice plugs - and have the old ones on hand for viewing if asked about. Some potential buyers may be suss as to why spark plugs and oil are changed just before a sale. Personally I prefer to see oil mid way through the interval change period to get an idea of the rings' condition etc. Cheers Bennie

To "burp" the system it's always helpful to have the car up on ramps. I'd start with idling up to temp, let the Thermo fans cycle twice, with rad cap on give it a few revs. Then let it cool. Check rad and overflow bottle levels, top up as necessary then go for a short drive allowing the car to come up to and maintain operational temp. Cool and check levels again. Repeat if need be with longer drives. Also allowing the car to run for a bit after each drive on the ramps can help get the bubbles out Cheers Bennie

Wiring wise it's close, mechanically it's not. Over here you need an engineer's report for an EJ conversion (which sucks balls). SPFI or weber can fly under the radar though. GD - fair call mate. I'm a backyarder so my time isn't viewed in the number of dollars as yours seems to be. Everything will be outdated one day, I like the fuel economy efi can give over that of a carb - and how well they go with the cold start. Lastly something different it's always good fun Google hitachi modification and Willy Fisterbottom - he's done a write up about jetting the hitachi and reckons he can set them up better than any weber conversion. Cheers Bennie

If it's nothing visible I'd be either pulling the rack out to inspect it internally - a full strip down to do this, or have someone do the steering wheel work (front wheels on some magazines) while you're looking at how everything under the bonnet is working. I'm with GD - it seems like a rag joint issue. Cheers Bennie

Let me elaborate on what GD said above. While there may not be a kit, there is a model in the L series that is SPFI equipped. This can be fitted to the EA81 - do a search, it's a well documented modification. One that I'm doing at the moment. And don't worry abou parts being scarce - I've got one of *maybe* a small hand full of these kits in Australia. You guys have access to whole vehicles running this system and I'm sure there are still many running around all over the US. Saying stay away because parts are scarce is like don't drive that car because parts are hard to find. Therefore no one should drive an EA82 equipped L series because you can't buy a new oil pump for it anymore (from what I've read on the forum). If you want it an know your way around a wiring diagram and can find a complete car at a wreckers or second hand, I say go for it. Cheers Bennie

Intake definitely has gaskets. Coolant crossover pipe is worth removing to replace the two O rings under it. Make sure they're genuine Subaru items Cheers Bennie

Shame it's a 2wd as previously mentioned. AWD in the snow = awesome. Still, sounds like a good deal in your area! It's like the ea81 - keep the oil and coolant up and she'll be sweet. One exception is that you keep a good quality cam belt kit on it at the appropriate intervals Any pics of the beast? Cheers Bennie

Tie rod ends and inspect/replace rack ends too. Then a wheel alignment. Or just do the shaft and ball joints, do an alignment and leave it be. I would replace bearings unless they looked like the grease was dry or they're making noises when driving. Cheers Bennie

Different dizzy's shouldn't make a difference so long as the replacement dizzy didn't come from an injected engine. The wiring will be the same from carb to carb dizzies, that's the important part. Given that you've got backfiring, your dizzy is wired in properly. It could be the order of the spark leads, timing is too far out (talking a tooth or two out). Definitely check the dizzy for shaft play. You should be able to at least get it running with a bit of shaft play. Running on the road won't be as good as it should be, but you'll notice that if it is an issue. Cheers Bennie

Test connectors will be above the drivers feet - you have to remove the kick panel to find them. Cheers Bennie

Seems like you've got a place to start... And that's at least something. I'm hoping you checked those fusible links properly - they may be solid/not broken but they can still be dead. All the best with it. Don't give up! Cheers Bennie

Looks good mate! Rear flare: thought of a 70's inspired inverted duck tail upward "scoop" from the lower body edge up to meet the flare? With some sort of similar scoop on the front end, either the flare or the front bar, it'll look schmick I reckon! Cheers Bennie

I was going to say do yourself a favour and get the O2 bung hole welded in before you pull the existing exhaust off the vehicle. But if my eyes see it correctly on my phone, it looks like you've already got one in there - winning! Cheers Bennie

That'll be fun in the pits... Chirp chirp chirp You move fast mate! Got the short shifter mod done too?? Cheers Bennie

I can't access Ausubaru.com/forum via my phone (that I'm on now), but if anyone is using an old version of internet explorer or Firefox you'll be able to access the address above and look at more than one page a day. On that site one of the members (Bantum) has posted details of these rings for 3D printing. Follow the link and I believe you down load the details then go nuts with the printing Cheers Bennie

Yeah no bent valve there for sure! If you're going by a tapping sound it seems to me as Subaru Scott said - valve adjustment. Tapping can be due to the section of the arm that comes in contact with the valve wearing oddly (I can't remember what it's called), this wear doesn't allow you to ever get the valve clearances just right to get rid of the tapping sound. I've got one arm like this on my ea81. You can remove the rocker arms (Which requires two head bolts to be removed) and have the surface refaced to remove this adjustment issue. Or just live with a bit of the tappety-tap. It's an ea81 after all - and nothing like the "tick of death" of the ea82 Cheers Bennie