el_freddo

I don't think he's got the bracket that the pulley mounts on let alone the pulley itself :/ Best of luck on that item, I doubt you'd find anyone selling just that part if they've got a complete system - it is a critical part for it to be complete. A wrecker or parts years will be your best bet! Cheers Bennie

I'm guessing you're talking about an Impreza? Typically drum rear = 2wd. Are you sure this is a '99 model?? I always thought the drums were phased out with the 2wd boxes. I'm happy to stand corrected, just never seen it myself. Cheers Bennie

Ah that makes sense now!

It depends on what model the box came from AND sometimes what market it was sold in. Typically in Oz: - Impreza = 3.9 - Liberty = 3.7 (Gen1 series 1 = 3.9) - Outback = 4.111 - Forester = 4.111 NA, 4.44 turbo These are manual boxes. Autos are a completely different kettle of fish. The only EJ box with 23 spline diff stubs up front is the early Liberty/Impreza 2wd box. The L series 23 spline diff stubs are interchangeable with the EJ diffs I dunno about the MY boxes, it would be good if they did though! Cheers Bennie

Try jump starting it. Battery is probably low on juice and doesn't have enough to even make the starter click. Cheers Bennie

Interesting. You don't need a heater? Hot stuff mate! I agree about the ea81 radiator. I've got a copper dual core N13 pulsar radiator cooling my EJ22. It does the job really well 95% of the time - I need to work on a few external things around the radiator. .. Cheers Bennie

I couldn't imagine much difference between these manifolds... I'm keen to see what you have to show us once you update the first post (random way to do it mate, seems your enthusiasm is ahead of your "evidences"/pics of what you want to show us!). Cheers Bennie

You need to find the electric window auto control box. In older subi's (MY/L series) it's a rectangular black box mounted above the bonnet release handle. I'm not up with where it's located on newer models but that's what I'd be looking at first. Swap in a known good working unit and see if the same behaviour occurs. or you could have an issue with the motor itself, but this seems unlikely to me. Also ensure the switch is clean without any foreign material interfering with it's operation or electrical signals. Cheers Bennie

Alternator wiring you use the recipient vehicle's alt wiring and adapt the EJ wiring to it (some EJ alternators require and ing trigger wire). You can choose to upgrade the main wire if you wish. Fuel pump wiring and main relays can be used from another EJ vehicle. Afaik they're all basically the same. Cheers Bennie

Ah gearboxes... Something I love playing with and I'm looking at an EJ AWD option for my brumby (eventually). And I agree, AWD with EJ is the best way to go in these lighter vehicles My theory is to get an early liberty series 1 AWD box or an impreza box (both are 3.9 diff ratio), swap the diff ratio to 3.7 and work out the speedo drive gear to match the MY speedo. This last bit will be trial and error. The swap from 3.9 to 3.7 should be enough to compensate for the change from the larger impreza/liberty tyre diametre to that of the stock brumby size. Thats my thoughts/plan anyway. While the box is open it's worth dropping in a front LSD even for onroad driving and messing around with the low range if you want. A phase two box is also stronger if you're needing that "feature". L series low range can still be fitted to this without issue using the usual process Cheers Bennie

It's a HG leak for sure - only an external one though. You can monitor the leaks and keep up the fluid levels or you can replace the HGs with later model ones - 11044AA770 General Disorder, GLoyale and Mike104 will be able to confirm this. Do not replace the HGs with factory standard units (like I did) - they will leak again! Like mine have... Cheers Bennie

You might find the intake bolt pattern is different as they changed it somewhere around this time. if that's the case, swapping the heads from your ej20 onto the ej22 can be done. It may result I higher compression or no change at all - but the intake will bolt on. Cam wheel/gear swap will definitely be required. All the best. Cheers Bennie

You could drop any 5 speed box in, they'll all fit without issue. The issue will be that the model the gearbox came from will be setup for the rotational size of tyre fitted to that vehicle. So if you put an impreza gearbox in your outback your taller tyres will effectively over-gear the gearbox and the speed on the speedo will be showing UNDER your actual speed. It may also make the engine work harder. On the flip side, if you use a forester gearbox you'll be under gearing the gearbox with the reduction in tyre size. This will make your car nice and peppy but also give you high rpm at cruise. With the forester box, it could work if it's got the same diff ratio but the speedo read different due to a different speedo drive gear. You may also find a different 5th ratio for cruising. As for drive shafts, if the gearbox has stub axles, use the matching driveshaft. Ultimately the best way to go is to get a box that's been rebuilt with a warranty or at least opened up to ensure all gears are intact. What is actually wrong with your gearbox? All the best with it. Cheers Bennie

I was wonder what your strategy was there... Old mate with the parts car sounds like he's come through with a good deal And a manual swap on the svx would be very interesting! Cheers Bennie

I'm pretty sure the ea81 turbo shares the same power steering pump as the ea82... Some one will be able to clarify this Cheers Bennie

I've not seen the vivio before. Is this a later model of the justy? Pretty cool little unit that one, and the foz has a lot of potential depending on where you wanted to go with it's build Cheers Bennie

After fuses check that the switch works properly at the pedal. You don't want to go chasing a wiring issue when it's a non functioning switch at the end of the day... Cherrs Bennie

If you've removed the spider gears in the centre diff you shouldn't have any drive unless you've welded up something to power the rear end. If you've done it this way you should be able to keep the front shafts in place. But if you've simply welded all the spider gears together in place then you'll have to pull the front shafts - and leave the inner cups in place to seal the box if they're the male spline units. Cheers Bennie

Looks good mate. It any other details to share on this build? Or a thread to link to the build? Cheers Bennie

Replace the radiator - it's worth the coin for the sake of the engine. Try replacing the PCV to curb oil usage. If you're running with synthetic oil, if it's burning it you won't see the oil burning out the exhaust pipe as it burns "clean". Cheers Bennie

Neat fix there Jono. Cheers Bennie

If unmetered air is smoothing out the idle have you thought about the possibility of one or more leaking injectors? Cheers Bennie

I did this on Sunnie the Brumby last year as a part of a head gasket job. i recall my paste having two types of grit, I'd have to look for the tube to give you more information on it. I got that either from super cheat or my old local parts place that's family operated (awesome place). I had to get new valve suction tools to do the spin bit on the valves - even then the bloody things wouldn't stick to the valves to do the job. I can't remember how I jammed them in to make them work but the job got done and it runs real well now The drill trick should work. If you're really worried about the one direction thing, you could always flick it into reverse for a bit. Cheers Bennie

Digital workshop manual is the go. Do a google search for one. You'll find one Cheers Bennie

Sounds like dead spark or weak fuel pressure. Cheers Bennie