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el_freddo

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Everything posted by el_freddo

  1. el_freddo
    Different dizzy's shouldn't make a difference so long as the replacement dizzy didn't come from an injected engine. The wiring will be the same from carb to carb dizzies, that's the important part. Given that you've got backfiring, your dizzy is wired in properly. It could be the order of the spark leads, timing is too far out (talking a tooth or two out). Definitely check the dizzy for shaft play. You should be able to at least get it running with a bit of shaft play. Running on the road won't be as good as it should be, but you'll notice that if it is an issue. Cheers Bennie
  2. el_freddo
    Test connectors will be above the drivers feet - you have to remove the kick panel to find them. Cheers Bennie
  3. el_freddo
    Seems like you've got a place to start... And that's at least something. I'm hoping you checked those fusible links properly - they may be solid/not broken but they can still be dead. All the best with it. Don't give up! Cheers Bennie
  4. el_freddo
    Looks good mate! Rear flare: thought of a 70's inspired inverted duck tail upward "scoop" from the lower body edge up to meet the flare? With some sort of similar scoop on the front end, either the flare or the front bar, it'll look schmick I reckon! Cheers Bennie
  5. el_freddo
    I was going to say do yourself a favour and get the O2 bung hole welded in before you pull the existing exhaust off the vehicle. But if my eyes see it correctly on my phone, it looks like you've already got one in there - winning! Cheers Bennie
  6. el_freddo
    That'll be fun in the pits... Chirp chirp chirp You move fast mate! Got the short shifter mod done too?? Cheers Bennie
  7. el_freddo
    I can't access Ausubaru.com/forum via my phone (that I'm on now), but if anyone is using an old version of internet explorer or Firefox you'll be able to access the address above and look at more than one page a day. On that site one of the members (Bantum) has posted details of these rings for 3D printing. Follow the link and I believe you down load the details then go nuts with the printing Cheers Bennie
  8. el_freddo
    Yeah no bent valve there for sure! If you're going by a tapping sound it seems to me as Subaru Scott said - valve adjustment. Tapping can be due to the section of the arm that comes in contact with the valve wearing oddly (I can't remember what it's called), this wear doesn't allow you to ever get the valve clearances just right to get rid of the tapping sound. I've got one arm like this on my ea81. You can remove the rocker arms (Which requires two head bolts to be removed) and have the surface refaced to remove this adjustment issue. Or just live with a bit of the tappety-tap. It's an ea81 after all - and nothing like the "tick of death" of the ea82 Cheers Bennie
  9. el_freddo
    You're not the first to attempt this - a google search should easily dig up a how to list of instructions. Either way, spool or weld, it's gearbox opening time, just the rear housing needs to come out to access the centre diff. Cheers Bennie
  10. el_freddo
    If you haven't pulled the head how do you know it's a bent valve? Have you tried adjusting the rocker arm clearances? If you're worried about getting the wrong valve, ask the shop you buy from about their return policy, and if they allow you to return an unused item I'd be ordering both valve sizes. I reckon the issue is either a bit of get on stuck on the valve seat or the rocker arm clearances. Best of luck with it. Cheers Bennie
  11. el_freddo
    108.0 fm is the highest my head unit goes to knucklehead. Triple J Melbs is the last station at 107.5 that I can remember. I think there used to be an old pirate radio on 107.9 but I never listened to it... Cheers Bennie
  12. el_freddo
    Also be looking at the other side of the car for these issues. This side that's run in hot could be doing more work than the otherside - but that's usually noticeable from pulling one way or the other under braking loads. Cheers Bennie
  13. el_freddo
    The caliper slides will not be smooth in operation, as in one side or both are stuck/have excessive friction. These can be removed, cleaned up then have some high temp grease applied to them. I'm not sure the exact grease to use, hopefully someone will be able to share that info. You may see your brake pads wearing oddly in a different angle other than parallel to the metal brake the pad is mounted to. I need to check this same issue out on my brumby :/ but it's not getting THAT hot. Cheers Bennie
  14. el_freddo
    That's funny about those frequencies you're able to access Subasaurus, we have the same sort of thing on those frequencies too! Knucklehead, I've always used the side, it's more uniform in thickness and can cover a larger area. Only thing is it's a cover, it can't hold weight. Cheers Bennie
  15. el_freddo
    Head to exhaust I use high temp silicone. Works a treat until you knock your exhaust on a rock when offroading. Cheers Bennie
  16. el_freddo
    I don't know if I mentioned this before - I've used the side of an old oil bottle for fascia panels. It's a nice black with a "neat pattern" through it depending on where you cut the oil container. And the plastic is easy to work with which is a bonus. Cheers Bennie
  17. el_freddo
    Yeah mate she's beaut! Cheers Bennie
  18. el_freddo
    Nice. Glad to hear you got a whole exhaust setup as I would pin the issue on the catalitic converter letting go. As for extra fuel usage who knows what's up with that unless the O2 sensor is no longer getting the same heat to keep it inside its optimal operational temp range, which could mean you're running in a fuel enriched loop/limp mode. Cheers Bennie
  19. el_freddo
    Sounds good mate. Keep a posted on the updates! Smash it with pics too Cheers Bennie
  20. el_freddo
    As the Lucky Texan has mentioned - check your cam belt tensioner. Remove the cam cover on the lhs and see if the tensioner bounces. If not then the stethoscope onto it to listen for the knocking sound. I'd be particularly suss if you replaced the tensioner with a non genuine item. We had one making noise after 10k km. Cheers Bennie
  21. el_freddo
    Winning! Extending the bash plate outwards and blocking all the holes will also help with drawing air through the radiator too. Something I'm still aiming to do - and have "proof" that it works after our trans continent trip in 2016 during the peak of our summer. Cheers Bennie
  22. el_freddo
    I've never touched one of those little or age seal things in the back of the crank on an ea81. I've always been told to leave them. Are you sure the rear seal was put in correctly? I've never heard of a sump gasket saturating the clutch in oil. And I've usually found the oil pump is the culprit as the reason for an oil saturated sump gasket. Not saying that the sump gasket will never leak, just that it's worth investigating the oil pump thoroughly. Cheers Bennie
  23. el_freddo
    Battery any good? I had a flat battery recently in one of our cars and it did some seriously weird stuff. The battery being flat was a result of a dead alternator... Cheers Bennie
  24. el_freddo
    OP, you sure that noise wasn't there before you did work on your car? I used to hear many "new" noises on my car after working on it, particularly after an engine install or internal works on the engine or gearbox. It could be that you've never noticed this tick on start up before, but since replacing the cam belt you're more critical of noices heard since the work was done. It may have always been there... My EJ gets a lifter tick every now and then - idling when cold, when oil level is low, sometimes when hot... It always goes away and is of no concern to me. But it is a good indicator that my oil level could be low Cheers Bennie
  25. el_freddo
    Story doesn't check out in my book - "pulled from a friend's rusty legacy" at the start of the description, then at the end they say something along the lines of "never installed (into what??), this cost me a lot of money to get it all together"... Last comment designed to bump the price? Cheers Bennie
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