el_freddo

Top effort mate! I wish I had this amount of time I work on my subi's!! Pooparu, good to see you back too, we haven't seen you around here for a while from what I've seen Cheers Bennie

That's awesome mate! I'm looking forward to the videos Cheers Bennie

Thread dig! Finnpower, the ea82 engine crossmember doesn't directly bolt into the ea81's position. Since Musubk mentioned running a 3 inch lift, I'd say the adaption of the ea82 engine crossmember to the EA81 was done in the lift blocks. Very easy to do it this way. Cheers Bennie

Gannon, it's good practice to move the selector forks with the gearsets so the ring and fork combo have worn together at the same rate. This also ensures that you don't have any unforeseen issues due to a slight change in something between these selector forks and the gearset selector rings. A good trick with the back last etc is to leave the input shaft and it's housing out when putting the halves together - it gives a very nice window to watch things through Cheers Bennie

I've read that full synthetic oil will burn without creating a smoke cloud out the back of the vehicle. Mum's '03 Corolla would use 1L of oil for every 4-500km of driving! Not anything to see out the back to suggest it was burning oil. We believe the cylinders in this engine were badly glazed. It was replaced with another known good engine. You could be running an oil that's too thin for the wear in your engine too. Cheers Bennie

Yeah that's probably "a bit" beyond repair ;( Bennie

Don't we all... The joys of messing around with old parts, not to mention rare ones. No way of repairing the centre diff, shims etc? This is something I've looked into but have not acted upon as I don't need to atm. All the best. Cheers Bennie

I think this post here helps out with what you're after Jono. Cheers Bennie

Ok, I think this relates to your other thread here. That pin has recessed into the hole where the selector shaft should be. This means you should be able to get something that's hook like (or something with a U on the end) to push that pin back up where it should be to then pull it out. I get this from the pic of mine below: You can see where a spring is in the hole for the selector shaft should be and the pin is still in it's original location. All of this came out and was reassembled after drying off from the wash it copped. I don't have a gearbox apart here, but I have a set of halves at m&d's that I could dig up next time I'm down there. Cheers Bennie

Put the good low range in while the box is split... That's Lego too. If running an EJ gearset you need to do a few things first... Cheers Bennie

If I've got what your saying correct, behind those retainer bolts on the side of the gearbox for the gear selector rods will be a spring and ball. Between each selector rod is a dedent rod/pill looking thing. These are all bastards to get back in place as you need to get the sequence right to do so. I'd be referencing a workshop manual to see if there's a guide on how to do it. And here I thought you'd have an electrical issue for Gannon! Cheers Bennie

August this year is 10 years on my EJ conversion from memory. And five or six years with the modified AWD box. One year involved a rebuild where a few things changed and more learning occurred in the department of the subtle differences between the phase1 and phase2 gearboxes... The L AWD box originally didn't come with the good 1.59:1 low range. I can't remember the teeth count on these gear sets. These boxes only ever had the 1.19:1 low range from factory. Good for some street racing or rallying on tight courses I believe. I hope it all goes back together properly for you. Cheers Bennie

Only half a week behind on that one Jono! Usually it's difficult to sneak anything past you! It's a forum update for various reasons. Cheers Bennie

Pull the pump anyway to at least inspect the mesh filter on the flow IN side of the pump. This may be blocked/particularly blocked with crud from the fuel tank. Cheers Bennie

Good good. I meant '82 as in EA82, I didn't think about the confusion this could cause. Glad it's sorted for you! Cheers Bennie

Yeah good to know, thanks mate. I'll hunt around to see what I can find - I've got a few roof consoles to make and this stuff look the bomb over mdf board. Cheers Bennie

Cases are in pairs so don't swap them around. Make sure the pinion shaft bearing locating pin is locking in place correctly. you may also have to recheck your diff backlash/preload settings. One trick could be backing the side bearing tensioners off a set amount and remember this to readjust properly once the cases are all bolted together up to spec. All the best Bennie

Some of those wires will be for your fuel gauge in the dash. Add the light to that circuit and you should see the fuel gauge move I'd imagine. Good to start with the power side of things. I reckon from what you've described you've got power to the pump. Cheers Bennie

We never got cruise control options on our subarus until the libertys came out in '89. I've got an instrument cluster in bits and can't see anything that resembles a reed switch like the L series clusters have. I plan on dropping the long cluster in with the six gauges - I'll check this out and see if there's a speed sensor built I to it, but I'm not hopeful since it's from an '83/84 model sedan. My brumby is a '90 or '91 model... Cheers Bennie

Have you looked into a weak fuel pump, blocked fuel filter or pickup in the tank? The constant flashes of the ECU is the unit designation. It'll tell you which market it's been designed for. Eg USDM/JDM/AUDM etc. So your ECU does not have any stored codes which is a good thing. The only other thing I can think of is a dodgy O2 sensor that's not yet throwing a code but is upsetting things. Cheers Bennie

I agree fuel pump. Had a similar situation but only occurred once the fuel pump was hot - typically while moving slow in sand 4wd'n. Also check all your fuses Cheers Bennie

Not having much experience with this issue or autos in Subarus I'd be looking for a vacuum leak. Cheers Bennie

That's one of the first hoses I swap out with the EA81 and EA82s. there will be another similar sized hose on the other side of the carb that taps into the heater coolant circuit. Change this one too otherwise it'll be the next source of your frustrations... Cheers Bennie

Sounds good mate. You guys rack up the miles quicker than we do! Look after the outback and the outback will look after you Cheers Bennie

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I'm trying to keep this low budget so working with what I've got is the goal - and to make it look as factory as possible... I've been supplied some plugs as suggested for the replacement pins. I've used a cam/crank angle sensor as my speed sensor for the aftermarket cruise - the one with the kit was lost. It works a treat so I could always mount a second sensor. I think tapping the ECU and cruise into the same sensor could be asking for trouble. It's looking like I'll be blocking off the EGR - the engine doesn't have one currently. And I'm yet to look closer at the whole evap/charcoal canister setup to work out how to plumb in the purge control solenoid. Moving forward with this, the ECU is mounted in the glovebox, intake manifold cleaned up. Now to get a few bits and pieces from my parts cars at m&d's place (an hr's drive), so need to plan that accordingly. Intake manifold gaskets are ordered too. With the AC wiring - control and reference, I'm casing what needs to be done here. I've read about GD's thoughts on the SPFI conversion. And while I can see where he's Cingular from I'm willing to work through issues of old sensors etc. Low end torque loss over the weber shouldn't be an isse for me as I'm in this for detonation reasons and I want to see if I can squeeze more fuel economy out of the brumby while still having a fun cruiser. Eventually an EJ22 will probably be dropped in. A cheeky snail on the side might make an appearance for S&Gs Dreams though, other priorities seem to have a habit of changing these plans... Cheers Bennie