el_freddo

You could be eating a lot of popcorn @Crazyeights! This build will be a slow burn so to speak! Cheers Bennie

Thanks GD! ill have to update how this went once I manage to get this engine together - it's a time issue more than anything. Cheers Bennie

All seals on the r160 are the same size for diff stubs. I'm sure they changed when they went to female fittings for the drive shaft. You shpuldnt have to remove anything other than the driveshaft and seal to replace it. Cheers Bennie

There should be a little black box near the steering column area. This will be an 8 wire plug from memory. This box is the fuel cut out relay if it can't detect ignition pulses from the coil. Either remove it and loop two wires together (can't remember which ones now sorry) to run pump whenever ignition is ON or reace it and hope the second unit is good. Cheers Bennie

Pull the loom. As you unplug things label them! You're after things that are engine related only. Label these as this will make the loom cut down easier. Get a wiring diagram that's model specific as this will help out identifying different wires that either go to the instrument cluster (tacho oil etc) or to other locations such as speed sensor and power wires. to cut it down start at the ECU plugs, remove all tape/conduit and tape together all ECU related wires along their paths. Once this is complete and you've labelled those odd wires you need separate, cut the rest out. This should leave you with only the wiring loom left to run the engine with the ECU. This is a good time to bench test your loom with the engine before you start to wrap it back up again. Have fun with it. I can't wait to get stuck into another one Cheers Bennie

Ok so I've read many times recently on the forum to re-ring with a head gasket replacement. I've read the article provided by GD in another thread about why you don't home to "deglaze" a bore or to bed new rings in. What I'd like to know is the procedure of how to go about re-ringing the engine from the time the pistons are out. Basically in terms of: - What needs to be checked? - How is this checked? - Do you buy standard rings for the given engine and call it a day or is it more technical than this (eg, measuring bore to piston clearances with a wire gauge then work out required ring size from this?) I ask these as I'm about to do this to an engine to get one of my project cars going and want to be clear about how to do this properly. I know @GeneralDisorder,@Gloyale and possibly @idosubaru have done this before - if you have the time to share this information or the way you go about it, I and I'm sure other members, would really appreciate some guidance. Regards Bennie from Down Under

That's not what I want to hear Dave... I'm about to swap my brumby to SPFI. And there's no spare parts over here Cheers Bennie

There could be slight differences but you'll work them out. Cheers Bennie

Probably a 2 or 3mm pin punch I reckon... I still don't know how this is done! Cheers Bennie

First gear is designed to be changed down to when basically stationary. Unless you rev match it won't go into first easily from second while moving. Fresh oil can make a huge difference too, especially if it hasn't been changed in many years. Cheers Bennie

If you do this the circlip will drop into the gearbox. It's not a push in shaft arrangement. This clip is accessible only be splitting the gearbox and using appropriate pliers to remove and install the clip safely. these aren't fun jobs by any means. I once ground the cv cup down to the axle to remove it from said axle. Once this was done the remainder of the pin could be removed. A positive of your situation: it's in the front diff which means you've got solid axles to help guide the pin, not hollow stub axles like the rear diff... Cheers Bennie

@3crows - are you saying that the gearbox let go/broke/has done something stupid? Engine is running ok then, just weighed down by increased friction in the gearbox? Cheers Bennie

Some muppet probably used locktite or similar compound on that bolt. It's right hand thread too - just to be sure you're applying force in the correct direction. All the best with it's removal in one piece! Cheers Bennie

Yes. Ps can be fitted to the brumby crossmember too Cheers Bennie

Definitely service the oil pump. If that fails you kiss your efforts goodbye Very interesting read GD! Cheers Bennie

I'll be going for the turbo gaskets on our EJ251 next. The stock replacement gaskets are leaking coolant externally after 80k km :/ i can't remember the part number used last time around... Cheers Bennie

EJ regulator?? Fuel pump nla - that's a laugh. Cheers Bennie

Ah that satisfying feeling when you finally nail an issue like this one! So, what's next?? Cheers Bennie

That's a big write up! There are some things that are US specific but that write up will give you a general idea of what you're in for Cheers Bennie

Stick with an EA81 rack, it'll create less headaches! You'll find PS in the touring wagons, coupes (good luck finding one to part out) and some sedans. Then you'll have to adapt the EJ power steering lines to/from the pump and rack to make it all work. Cheers Bennie PS: still can't find that thread (on phone) - it's a beige brumby owned and built by a NZ member from memory. They did an EJ AWD box into the brumby with an EJ20 or EJ22. Looked super neat! Have a search, do some reading and see what you can find on the forum, link stuff you want to discuss in here I'm off to fix the heating now (house is iceblock spec, 8.2*C INSIDE!!! - at parents place )

5 speed will probably last longer depending on your driving "style". You can still do the conversion with the 4 speed using the adaptor plate then swap in the 5 speed later on down the track. At the end of the day they're both 2wd unless you find the rare L series AWD box with locking centre diff. Even then if you stomp it hard enough in the wet you can spin the front wheel/s as the centre diff is a simple open diff when unlocked. Theres a kiwi member on here who's done a neat conversion similar to what you're after. I'll dig up the link. Cheers Bennie

You'll need the wiring from the alternator to the main loom. Then splice this into the existing EA loom. relatively simple to do. Just make sure you solder and insulate your joints really well Cheers Bennie

Loads of info on this conversion - it's been done 1000 times before! Sorry to bust your bubble but it's not a direct drop in as such. Power steering: you'll need a PS rack from a touring wagon or sedan then have a set of adapters to mate the lines to the rack - or get custom PS lines made up. Cruise control: you could possibly use the EJ factory gear - just means more wiring and nutting out how to mount all the hardware in the engine bay. Or go aftermarket. The AP60 unit works well for me in my brumby and L series ABS: well you could probably do it if you can mount all the sensors for each wheel, keep the wiring to run it all and bend up new brake lines to fit the ABS module. You'll have to relocate the battery to the other side of the engine bay. You need to cut down the wiring loom to get the ECU to run the engine. There are ppl in Oz that can do this for you if you're not game. Or use the whole loom from the donor vehicle - just splice in the plugs from the brumby loom to run the tail lights, indicators, parkers and headlights. The EJ steering column can be made to fit to keep the combination switch for indicators and hi/low beam etc. it'd probably be easier than cutting down the loom to do what you want to do. You can fit the AWD box - you'll need to fabricate the gearbox mount points - again it's been covered. You'll also need to modify the shift linkages and have a custom tail shaft made up. It's recommended that you do a two piece to avoid vibration unless the company building it does a top effort on their balancing. Or you can get an adapter plate (look up Subarino AE on bookface) to mate to your current pt4wd box to the EJ engine using the EA flywheel and clutch. But being that you're a P plater I'd recommend the gearbox mod. One issue with this is that it'll be mismatched to the rolling tyre diametre compared to the EJ equipped vehicle it came from. There are ways to sort this with a diff ratio swap but unless you know what you're doing I'd recommend someone else doing it for you or put up with the 2wd and learn how to drive appropriately. Also best to check out what engineering requirements are needed with the Nsw RTA before you start this conversion. Ej22 conversions are very common and an ej20 is a good swap too if capacity is an issue for the RTA. You could go all out with a five stud conversion to run the EJ brakes as well. Dfyol might have a set of rear hubs up for grabs to do this brake conversion - this is the key piece needed to do this brake conversion. Have a scroll through the different threads in this forum, there are a couple of EJ conversion related threads on the go recently. And there are many more before them if you use the search function All that said, it's well worth the effort, especially if you keep it sleeper with the stock look if that's what you're after Cheers Bennie

Sounds like you need new struts to me. Any signs of weeping from the struts (where the rod/shaft slides)? This is an early indicator that they need replacing - for a road going vehicle they'll still be fine for a long time to come. Off-roading works the suspension more so issues like these are more apparent. Cheers Bennie

Yeah it has to clear the alternator. That tensioner pulley does this job. Something could be rigged up if really desperate I reckon. Cheers Bennie