el_freddo

You guys got the hill holder on your BRATs? Our Brumby equivalent over here never saw a hill holder fitted from factory. That only occurred on the L series onwards. As for the state of the master cylinder I'd say clean it up and see if you can see any fresh evidence of leakage. If it is in fact leaking fluid between it and the booster it's time for a new master cylinder. I'd find a willing volunteer to help you bleed these brakes. Select a brake fluid that is a different colour to what you have now, run the old stuff until low then too up with the new stuff. Bleed until the new colour comes through. This should indicate that no air is in the system if bled correctly. I'd start by bleeding the MC if possible then follow the sequence you've already been doing. That line you've got could be a spare or some odd part from another vehicle that's giving you a bum steer. I also doubt the brake line, or any for that matter, pass over the top of the fuel tank. Cheers Bennie

Only one spring. Sounds like it's hooked up right to me. My brumby is the same as is my motet inlaw's. Cheers Bennie

The kit they have in stock is for the L series and is not compatible. As for those other numbers I really don't know. Cheers Bennie

Yeah Jono, easiest way to check the wiring by earthing it to the intake manifold. Ignition on. This will confirm the wiring and gauge work which points at the sender being the issue. Cheers Bennie

Valve clearances. This happened to me on one bank as well. I'd be double checking all valve clearances to ensure they're good Cheers Bennie

I didn't want to said it first, but that was my initial thought too with it possibly being the EJ25D... Either way, EJ25D or EJ251 I'd call head gasket. Cheers Bennie

Radio unit could've died internally. Or there could be a broken wire behind the dash. It shouldn't be too hard to check each wire with a multimeter. I'd put money on the radio unit packing up. Cheers Bennie

You will always hear noise/feel air movements through the dipstick or when you remove the oil cap with the engine running. You might hear a slight change in idle. Cheers Bennie

Ive never heard of this being an issue. Without the power assist vacuum line the brake will operate about the same as trying to push a brick through the floor when properly bled. That meaning the brakes are only as good as your leg strength. @abentz The rear brakes may need adjusting but this isn't the root cause of the issue. If you've swapped the calipers or renewed the seals, it can help to fill the calipers with brake fluid as best you can prior to install. You definitely need a second person that doesn't mind doing the boring task of listening to your calls as you bleed the brakes OR use one of those self bleeder kits. You've still got loads of air in the system or you need to bleed the master cylinder. Cheers Bennie

Start by adjusting the rear shoes. These are done manually via a small square headed bolt that could be covered by a rubber boot. Many lose this boot and are more than likely seized. Cheers Bennie

What plastic clips? yep, the EA82 is pretty crap. Probably the worst engine that Subaru have ever made. That's what you get for rushing a design... Cheers Bennie

I know who it was - I wasn't going to name names! Ruined a very tidy car that he figured was worth more in parts than complete. We both know how that ended. He should've just EJ turbo'd it and been done with it. End hijack... any luck with this bit of plastic? Or is it a weekend job?? (It's the weekend now over here :p ) Cheers Bennie

I think you'll really struggle as the MY tank is very rectangular in it's shape and the L's tank is an odd shape that I think is wider. One way to find out if you're cashed up and keen. Cheers Bennie

Ah that flange gasket. I've never heard it called a doughnut before... make sure it's orientated correctly when out fit it too. Cheers Bennie

You do know of this thing called google don't you Jono? Try out this site. I got a manual or two from this site without issue. If you don't like that site I'm sure you'll find another one. I also found a site for Australia that you can buy the fsm by plugging your details into the site and apparently Subaru Australia will contact you to discuss further. Dodgy much?? Anyway you'll work it out Cheers Bennie

Exhaust doughnut? I've not heard of this on an exhaust... Cheers Bennie

That's a typical issue o the alternator. Expect those lights to all get bright on a drive soon - when the alternator completely dies. Cheers Bennie

Once you've got the ea82 running sweet do some research on the EJ conversion. Or skip the sweet running ea82 bit... i love my L series and have had it for over a decade now. It's "slightly modified" and can be dailyed if I need to. There are many mods for this model and the 80's forum is the place to check out. Reading member's build threads are also a good place for ideas Enjoy Cheers Bennie

I use a set of right angle needle nose pliers to turn the bearing carrier. If you're concerned that it's not done up tight enough I'd be lifting the wheel on that side, gearbox in neutral and while applying gentle pressure with the needle nose pliers in the direction to tighten up as you rotate the lifted wheel in the same direction. You can't over tighten this really unless you're reefing on it with a bar and a suitable attachment. The pressure you apply will be playing against the other bearing carrier that by the sounds of things hasn't been touched. So you should be able to get this sorted for trouble free running for years to come if it still feels loose after this fix I'd say there's another issue or you're being highly critical of the vehicle since you did the work yourself (I used to be like this too). Cheers Bennie

Yeah the dash needs to be trimmed and mounting tabs fabricated to fit that dash. Then climate controls etc don't work. I don't know if you remember the guy on Ausubi that had the flame orange/red coupe running a WRX drivetrain and dashboard. He used the full WRX heater box and under dash AC gear by welding in the WRX firewall - and got it engineer approved. Its currently on gumtree for sale again - just a cool $14.5G... Cheers Bennie

You should be able to read codes by plugging the test connectors together that are behind the kick panel above the driver's feet. It's the poor man's code reader Another thing to check is the idle air control valve on the throttle body, make sure it's not stuck/is working correctly. Cheers Bennie

Those items are all the same for 4wd vehicles between the different years with exception to the earlier model that got height adjustable units front and rear. Cheers Bennie

Those two relays are the ones you need. I don't know what the others are about but I doubt they're needed. You can test the engine outside of the vehicle once your loom is cut down, or even have the EJ fitted into the recipient vehicle for a test fire. Cheers Bennie

There will be coolant and vacuum lines to disconnect too. Mark/note these well. Cheers Bennie

Diff seals are typically different in that they're directional dependant and they'll be marked rhs or lhs. Im not up with the specifics of the later setup and the seals used. To me it's a bit early for those seals to be leaking. Are the CV clipped in properly? Cheers Bennie