el_freddo

If right hand drive do what Jono said. If left hand drive the stock clutch cable will reach where it needs to go if I’ve read this detail correctly. Use the L shifter and the brumby 4wd lever. You’ll need to cut and weld the 4wd brumby lever rod to the L series 4wd selector rod. Make sure you measure it all up properly the first time! I’m not sure if the L levers will need to be cut down to fit in the trans tunnel hole of the Brumby. Either way, use the L levers with the brumby console. It’ll look factory Cheers Bennie

Have you changed the grade or brand of oil used? Any chance you could get an oil pressure gauge plumbed in to see what’s happening on start up and whenever the ticking stops? Cheers Bennie

No good video but I suspect it’s a cam removal job. Have you checked your oil level to verify that it’s where it should be? Cheers Bennie

Tried cleaning/replacing the main power relay? In that model I’m not sure what colour it is or where it’s located, but on the Gen1s it was a brown relay. That could be the issue. Or check your fusible links/slow burn fuses. Cheers Bennie

Depending on what gen that ej22 came from (‘95 could be Gen1 or Gen2 over there for all I know) can determine exactly what noise it is. The Gen1 engine had HVLAs - small but heaps better than the EA82 monstrosities! These can tick from time to time and on my Gen1 EJ22 in the L series this tick on early start up indicates either oil is very cold and taking its time to pressure up to the HVLAs or that my oil level is low. The Gen2 engines use a form of roller rockers and from my understanding won’t tick as a result. But this engine is an interference engine. Gen1 is not Cheers Bennie

Further to this, all travelled the same distance, meaning when it’s time for tyres, replace ALL FOUR. Do not do the replace two, put the best two on the rear trick that you can do with 2wd vehicles. Cheers Bennie

Ah that strip, not the rubber door/window weather seal? Thats pretty normal. It’s becoming hard to find good windows to tint due to these scratches! Cheers Bennie

Second hand would be your best bet. Plus tint should be trimmed about 5mm from the edge of the window for best durability. Cheers Bennie

Driver’s side over there. Get down low to be able to see it. Have a torch or phone torch on hand to help out. There is a dot in the middle of the sight glass where the fuel level should be. Cheers Bennie

Try resetting the ECU and see if the problem remains. Cheers Bennie

Yeah I’m not sure Jono is allowed in the local Bunnings anymore - he gets too many crazy ideas while he’s there! Cheers Bennie

Be aware that if the module or spark dies completely and won’t intermittently run it means you have a dead coil AND and dead module. DO NOT replace the module without replacing the coil first. A dead coil will instantly kill a new module. Ask me how I know... Cheers Bennie

Dizzy ignition module or a lot of shaft play that’s not allowing the module to detect the trigger wheel or the points to open sufficiently as required. All the best with it. Cheers Bennie

That looks like it. Cheers Bennie

You can remove the glovebox then the fan to get at the ducting. If you have AC you won’t get very far and that’s not removable without pulling that system and possibly the dash out in the process. Cheers Bennie

This is the “toilet bowl” gasket: As you can see the gasket isn’t sitting right. On the underside of the throttle body there’s a groove this O ring style gasket sits in, mine doesn’t really sit as it should. I’m not after new nuts - I got the manifold separate to the rest of the kit so any extra weight was stripped off for the international shipping. I’ve just let this part of the project slide atm. As for after market dizzy, no idea there sorry! Cheers Bennie

Probably minutes to that speed when in low range. When in 4wd normal highway speeds should be achievable. But only do this in the wet otherwise you could break something in the 4wd drive train taking an intersection. Cheers Bennie

@Subuhrue - I’ll be checking in don’t stress about that! I’ve got my main wiring loom installed after checking a few wires that didn’t marry up on their labels compared to the wiring diagram. Ecu is going into the glove box (right hand drive so this works well). I’ve got my inlet manifold gaskets, O2 sensor and everything else I need including an already modified dizzy with the EA81 drive gear fitted. What I feel I need is that toilet bowl gasket. Mine is enlarged. If you happen to find one can you grab me one as well and I’ll sort something out with you? I also need to source some nuts to fit the throttle body back onto the intake and get a thermostat housing (at m&d’s an hr away). Then it’s a case of putting it all in, fitting efi rated flexible fuel hose, O2 sensor and see if she’ll fire up Just have to see out the end of the school year first and get a few other projects out of the way... it never ends! Cheers Bennie

Don’t worry about the extra gaskets, the EA82 is bound to leak after the first start up. Cheers Bennie

He’ll say the EJ conversion isn’t worth it these days and to sell up to get a Gen2 or 3 platform where parts are interchangeable and still supported blah blah blah... I too am doing the spfi conversion. In. Very. Slow. Steps. If you can call them steps. Hold up atm is motivation to add some wiring and sort some nuts to put the throttle body back on the inlet manifold. Also I’m after the “toilet bowl” gasket as the one I have is enlarged Cheers Bennie

I can’t fathom how you guys over there manage to break so many of these oil pumps. I’ve done three or four oil pump removals each from a different engine without issue. All the best with finding one over there! Cheers Bennie

If you’re running an oiled k&n filter you may have coated the AFM in oil and restricted its ability to properly do its job. It may not throw a code either. Paper filters are the best yet option in these! To check for codes: remove driver’s kick panel above the driver’s feet area. Up near the steering column you will find a set of plugs, one set green, another set black. If I recall correctly, plug the black plugs in together (if you can’t find them they could be taped to the main loom. Take a torch with you and look around in that area). Once you’ve got the plugs connected, turn the ignition into the ON position without running the engine. You should hear the fuel pump cycling on and off. If not, disconnect the black plugs and connect the green plugs together. On the instrument cluster the check engine light will flash. Long flash for tens, quick flash for ones. If no codes it will give a series of quick flashes to indicate the market designation of the ecu. The ecu will show all stored codes then cycle through them again until you turn the ignition off. This allows you to check and triple check your code recording. These codes will then relate to specific sensors on the engine. These are the sensors to check up on/replace. The list of codes can be found on the forum somewhere or in a basic maintenance manual such as Haynes or Gregory’s Knowing thatyiure running a K&N filter I reckon this is the issue. Cheers Bennie edit: duh, just looked at the link from wtdash AFTER writing all of the above out...

Checked for codes? It could also be a dead/dirty throttle position sensor or air flow meter. Hows the air filter in this thing - fresh/dirty?? Cheers Bennie

I’m guessing that you only go wheeling as day trips, close to town, in a group that makes recovery/fix easy? I’ve never bent a front or a rear strut and have been pretty loaded up. I can’t afford to break stuff out bush, especially if help is more than a day or two’s walk. That = very expensive just to get back into town let-a-lone all the way back home if parts aren’t easily accessible. Cheers Bennie

Got a blocked exhaust/dead cat converter? Cheers Bennie