el_freddo

Excuse my ignorance, is that a metal bush replacement for the rubber bush? If so I’ll be keen to know what sort of rear end noises you experience. And have you retained the upper rubber mount on the strut? Cheers Bennie

From what I’ve read (not made a frankenmotor - yet) if you want to use the ej22 heads the 99 EJ25D is the bottom end to use. The reason for this has something to do with the block basically being the stronger EJ251 block but with the EJ25D pistons. The crank and rods are basically the same from what I can gather. Bolt all that together and your EJ22 management should handle the job well. Just run the best octane rated fuel you can get your hands on Have fun! @GeneralDisorder - what years is the EJ257 found in? Cheers Bennie

@sparkyboy - they’re the original “Scorpion” rims by scorpion Subaru back in the day. There is a very similar rim available nowadays that’s based on this rim. Can get them in black or white and are probably very light compared to these rims. I’m really digging the look of the brumby with these rims now! Cheers Bennie

Everyone is for their first! Don’t focus on the number of wires and how they’re jumbled up. You need the following wires: - permanent power (fused) - back up power (fused) - starter wire (use the EJ’s starter setup, you just need the wire to the starter and the other to trigger the starter circuit (fused) - fuel pump wire (fused from memory) - vehicle speed sensor wire (VSS), hook into the speed sensor in the back of the instrument cluster - AC relay wire (good if you’re going to run AC) - thermofan relay or cut off wire (earth switched) From memory that’s it. The rest of the wiring plugs into the ECU or the engine and sensors etc. Cheers Bennie

The LSD was an option on the vortex. The RX turbo got it factory. Cheers Bennie

All good mate! imageshack photobucket Theyre two suggestions. Others may know of more... Cheers Bennie

Buy a whole vehicle - ensure it’s running! Pull the harness and cut it down to just the engine management wiring. Test run this with the engine still in the donor vehicle. If it’s starts and runs without any codes you’re good to go with the rest of the conversion. The gearbox and driveshafts aren’t touched unless you fit the EJ AWD box. Cheers Bennie

New boots: The “other one” (offroad L series) is partially covered in mud atm. Cheers Bennie

I’ve only known the rear glass in the tail gate to be rubber mounted. No glue used until the legacy era. Cheers Bennie

That’s your issue. Use a tyre calculator thingy and you’ll get two different rolling lengths/circumference/diametre. Not by much but it will count. Just like putting the wrong diff ratio in the rear end. One set of axles is trying to rotate faster than the other one. It’ll run just fine in 2wd, no doubt about that. But in the slippery stuff either the front end will drag the arse end around or you’ll have a tail happy arse end that’s trying to get past the front end - much like a highly excited dog running around. Cheers Bennie

@Whitestorm - no worries in asking. My conversion was done over ten years ago and it’s still running sweet. And I reckon mine is on the cheaper side as I took my time to do some research as to what I wanted/needed. I purchased parts when sales were on at the parts yards. I also put my L gearbox in the front EJ cases to avoid an adaptor plate and EA flywheel/clutch setup. All up, I probably came in at $1200AU. This was spent over a 12 month period with all work carried out by myself. That’s an educated guess. It could be less. Actually, this is what I remember: engine $125 - 50% sale loom donated ecu slipped in with the engine gearbox $175. Had an ea box spare. Mods = my time. New seals ?? timing belt ~$250 rear seal $30 efi pump $150 efi rated rubber fuel hose ~$50 (18 months later after lift came) exhaust 2.25inch cat back $450. Seems I was about accurate not including odds and ends like male/female spade connectors, aftermarket fuse panel, loom wrap and tape... all prices are in Australian dollars no doubt your market will be different and I’m sure thing’s will have changed somewhat since my conversion. And what I’ve done isn’t the only way to do it - others will have experience to share and there’s are already many threads about it on the forum I’m about to crack into the same thing for my brumby soon. Just waiting to hear from the engineer Cheers Bennie

That’s fair enough whitestorm, I’ve ditched mine for an EJ22. A wrx engine and box basically bolts into one of these. Custom tail shaft and gear linkages are needed and a cut down wiring loom. But overall it’s a pretty easy conversion. Cheers Bennie

Insurance can do that to a bone stock setup too! Cheers Bennie

I love how you guys can just go and do this then drive! I’d have to get engineering approval just to even think about welding in mounts for that rear end let alone modifiying the length of the arms! It’s looking good too! Mean with those tyres Cheers Bennie

Welcome to the forum! With the knock, it’s definitely knock and not lift tick (aka the tick of death or TOD but it’s actually harmless). Cheers Bennie

Hey Zeekyal, sounds like a beast built for a purpose! For photos use a third party hosting site and drop the image codes in here to show your pic Cheers Bennie

The Legacy/liberty of that era only had 3.7 or 3.9 diff ratio in manual and 4.111 in auto. I’m unsure if the auto had a second ratio available. Cheers Bennie

If the crack between the valves is so bad it’ll work it’s way down the exhaust ports and open up into the coolant passages. But that’s typically seen in the turbo models. Head gaskets are the better option for this issue if the other is crack heads... Cheers Bennie

The 2L phase 1 Foz box got the respectable 1.447:1 low range. This will literally drop into a phase 2 dual range box. If running 4.44 diffs, some crown wheel grinding work may be needed, I’m not 100% sure on that one. Having read a number of Subaru manuals when building my dual range box, there’s a phase 2 box with this low range from the factory. I believe this is from or in some European markets, maybe in the Russian market too. I’ve personally never seen one of those. Another way to do it is what I’ve done with my gearbox in my L series: Find one of those L series AWD gearboxes with the locking centre diff. Ensure the centre diff isn’t shot. If it is walk away unless you want a parts box. Best way to check them is have the centre diff removed and check the backlash. Select the desired diff ratio you want to run. You will need an EJ crown and pinion gearset of the desired ratio. You use the EJ pinion shaft with the EA AWD pinion to cut and shut a hybrid EA AWD pinion shaft (longest produced by Subaru) with the EJ pinion gear at the other end. Be specific with your measuring to ensure you get a pinion shaft of the same length back. L series 1.59:1 low range will drop straight into this gearbox. Downers on this build: - it’s expensive and replacement parts are hard to find - in the states you’re stuck with the EA AWD drive gears as the upper gearset is dual range specific - you would still need to run an adaptor plate and EA flywheel/clutch After doing all of that you would probably be better off importing a low km dual range phase 2 box and putting the “awesomest” Subaru low range in. There are plenty of threads on the web as to how to do this (I recommend the write up by Phizinza on his forum offroadingsubarus.com). My L AWD centre diff lock is mated to the back of a phase 2 dual range box from a Foz with 4.111:1 diff ratio (wish I got the 4.44:1 diffs but $$$$s), I’ve matched the speedo drive gear so my speedo is bang on accurate and have the L low range with auxiliary oil feeders over the low range gears for cooling purposes more than lubrication reasons. For my build in the L series this is a great setup as it matches diff ratio to tyre size (27 inch), bolts up to the EJ, uses EJ clutch and flywheel - and the back end of the gearbox bolts into all the L series bits it needs to without any mods. Awesome box, I love it! I hope that’s not as clear as mud! Cheers Bennie

What’s a search function? And what’s this google thing people keep talking about? Not sorry for the sarcasm! Cheers Bennie

Interesting convo fellas! One other thing about these electric vehicles - battery replacement cost was mentioned. There’s another issue with the batteries - we don’t have any way of recycling them, or safely disposing of them. So no emissions while driving (yay!?) but what cost at end of life of the batteries?? And if two sets are required for the life of the vehicle? There are plenty of other fuel sources available that are renewable - cost will be an issue but if it comes down to it this will be used if we’re up against a wall so to speak. Also there was an Aussie fella that developed high effiencey steam engine or something to that effect. I believe it essentially ran on water - I don’t know how but I do know this isn’t really a good thing in Australia with our lack of water! Anyway, Edward Pritchard (spelling?) is the guy that did it. He made two running vehicles from Fords. The first only had “two gears” - forwards and reverse! The second was more conventional with a manual gearbox. One was stolen and never seen again. The other I don’t know what happened. Everyone he demonstrated this technology to shunned it and it sent him bankrupt. I’d love to see how this thing works as it intrigues me. It also shamed me how people can treat others when they’ve got some top ideas! Cheers Bennie

Yes they are taller ratios, but they’re the ONLY TWO available in the EA dual range gearboxes, and the 3.7 is the most common. As for the Aus or Euro dual range, he’ll probably want to drop the good low range into one of these, and can swap in the 4.44:1 diff ratio (WRX box will have one, and a “matching” 5th ratio for cruising). A decent low range AND the 4.44 will require shaving the crown wheel for clearance it’s the larger low range gears. And yes, the Aus or Euro dual range box will drop right in without any mods other than a console swap for the dual range lever. The cheapest option on the table in my view is the EA dual range. Then live with the diff ratio change. To get a gearbox from Aus to the US (if customs is operational stateside!) would cost ~$AU700. Once you factor in finding a decent second hand box you’ll be well over a grand and quickly headed to two grand if you get a low km box. Cheap boxes will usually have +300k km on them or a centre diff issue and can be had for ~$AU250. Cheers Bennie

Thanks for the update! Cheers Bennie

Head gaskets, especially if it’s the EJ25. Although I’m not 100% sure the factory head gasket leak runs into the EJ253 which I believe your forester has. @GeneralDisorder - he’ll be able to give you the required head gasket part number to correct the leaks. How much oil and coolant is missing and over what time period are we talking? Cheers Bennie

Hmmm... that sucks! Although a set of twins that aren’t well maintained are apparently an absolute pig to drive and even worse to sort out. You guys got the WRX over that period of time didn’t you? Best shaped models in my opinion. A MY99 WRX hatch would be nice! @stevo f - can you try to describe where the smoking smell is coming from and what it smells like? Cheers Bennie