el_freddo

He’ll say the EJ conversion isn’t worth it these days and to sell up to get a Gen2 or 3 platform where parts are interchangeable and still supported blah blah blah... I too am doing the spfi conversion. In. Very. Slow. Steps. If you can call them steps. Hold up atm is motivation to add some wiring and sort some nuts to put the throttle body back on the inlet manifold. Also I’m after the “toilet bowl” gasket as the one I have is enlarged Cheers Bennie

I can’t fathom how you guys over there manage to break so many of these oil pumps. I’ve done three or four oil pump removals each from a different engine without issue. All the best with finding one over there! Cheers Bennie

If you’re running an oiled k&n filter you may have coated the AFM in oil and restricted its ability to properly do its job. It may not throw a code either. Paper filters are the best yet option in these! To check for codes: remove driver’s kick panel above the driver’s feet area. Up near the steering column you will find a set of plugs, one set green, another set black. If I recall correctly, plug the black plugs in together (if you can’t find them they could be taped to the main loom. Take a torch with you and look around in that area). Once you’ve got the plugs connected, turn the ignition into the ON position without running the engine. You should hear the fuel pump cycling on and off. If not, disconnect the black plugs and connect the green plugs together. On the instrument cluster the check engine light will flash. Long flash for tens, quick flash for ones. If no codes it will give a series of quick flashes to indicate the market designation of the ecu. The ecu will show all stored codes then cycle through them again until you turn the ignition off. This allows you to check and triple check your code recording. These codes will then relate to specific sensors on the engine. These are the sensors to check up on/replace. The list of codes can be found on the forum somewhere or in a basic maintenance manual such as Haynes or Gregory’s Knowing thatyiure running a K&N filter I reckon this is the issue. Cheers Bennie edit: duh, just looked at the link from wtdash AFTER writing all of the above out...

Checked for codes? It could also be a dead/dirty throttle position sensor or air flow meter. Hows the air filter in this thing - fresh/dirty?? Cheers Bennie

I’m guessing that you only go wheeling as day trips, close to town, in a group that makes recovery/fix easy? I’ve never bent a front or a rear strut and have been pretty loaded up. I can’t afford to break stuff out bush, especially if help is more than a day or two’s walk. That = very expensive just to get back into town let-a-lone all the way back home if parts aren’t easily accessible. Cheers Bennie

Got a blocked exhaust/dead cat converter? Cheers Bennie

You could have a dead bearing too. Definietly jack the suspect wheel off the ground and rotate it. I reckon the issue will become pretty obvious. Cheers Bennie

No. Subframe swap required = custom work. New shaft cheaper and easier. Cheers Bennie

What?? This isn’t self sufficient house plumbing and tank water storage. Wrong forum? Cheers Bennie

It wouldn’t be the first one. There was a Gen1 done near me but I can’t find it on the web. I found this build though: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2393987 And I found another article about a turbo’d build where the author fairly flogged boosted Subaru and their fanatic owners. He clearly didn’t know the ins and outs of Subaru life... Back to the OP - you can also achieve lift with a subframe drop - aka a body lift. Cheers Bennie

I’ve not ever heard of anyone replicating a factory Y pipe for the EA81 or EA82. If you require a new cat, it’s a custom job for the Y pipe - or delicately mod your existing Y pipe to use a single in/out cat converter. Cheers Bennie

I’ve done it on mine. The crank seal was SOOOO old and crusty that a bit broke off and it leaked over a certain rev. I limped it home at 80kmph hoping the oil light didn’t come on. That was a very nervous 28km. I did as above - crank seal and oil pump reseal at the same time. Cheers Bennie

They’re also used as a dampener if the strut comes close to full compression. Good if you’ve got a loaded vehicle on rough tracks, and has been great on my lifted L series that doesn’t have extended swing arm bump stops... I doubt you’ll need them on your 2wd. Cheers Bennie

Heater circuit hose from the water pump. Check it out for pin holes. Cheers Bennie

Mine only does this in summer, even then, it’s random. Cheers Bennie

New project for you Jono!

Hopefully there’s no damage to the ecu. I’d also look into why the fuel pump isn’t working as it should. Could be a dead relay or a dodgy connection - or again, a fuse. Cheers Bennie

The factory VF2 or what ever you have from the EA82 will probably instantly boost then run out of puff in no time. Get an EJ spec turbo like a TD04. Cheers Bennie

That’s just my gearbox build for my off-roading purposes with the addition of AWD for everyday driving. Ironically now that I have this gearbox built I don’t drive it anywhere near as much as I used to! It’s also got a front LSD - a very worth while effort too! All up I reckon it’s probably cost me about $2500AU over time in collecting parts etc and paying a dude to put it together the first time in phase1 cases. You could do yours for the cost of a gearbox and some fab work. If you’re good with a grinder and welder that shouldn’t be outside your ability. The front shafts will need to be changed to MPFI L to fit the EJ box. Cheers Bennie

You’ll need an “EJ” spec turbo. Something like the small TD04 should do the job nicely. Mid you’re looking at 8-10 psi you’ll probably want to swap pistons over to turbo units. Also look at intercooling, as this will help with detonation Ive not done it but a mate has boosted an EJ22e with a SC14 supercharger and runs 5psi with an intercooler. It’s pretty awesome/scary for a permanent front wheel drive! Goes awesome off-road too! Cheers Bennie

How many new oil leaks did you find after this? Cheers Bennie

Or a broken retainer spring inside the gearbox. There are three or four 10mm plug bolts on the side of the gearbox close together. These have the retainer springs and balls behind them. Use a hooked piece of wire to pull the springs out. Compare them all together - they should be the same size. Check what GD mentioned first as these are easier to do. Cheers Bennie

You’ll need custom: - Prop shaft - Gear selector linkages - Gearbox crossmember or an XT6 one may do the job, I’m not 100% on that though... The AWD with ej22 is well worth the effort. If running 27 inch tyres get a box from a forester as this will match the diff ratio to the tyre size I’m running a bitza box - phase 2 EJ dual range front cases, L series 1.59:1 low range with auxiliary oil feeders, SG drive and reverse gears, L series centre locking diff and matching rear housing, custom pinion shaft for 4.111:1 diff ratio (wish I had 4.44) and a 27 tooth speedo drive gear to pull my speedo back to proper accurate And I’m running 27 inch tyres with the EJ22 Cheers Bennie

My brumby will sound like it’s revving it’s tits off before the auto choke drops the revs. This can take several minutes in our winter, less if any in summer. Cheers Bennie

First I’ve heard of this for an L series! Our have one in the Y pipe and a resonator type muffler in the middle then the rear muffler. Cheers Bennie