el_freddo

When the vehicle was near new it wasn’t so crazy. They do come up on gumtree and eBay second hand from time to time at a much better price. Plus they’re the best looking bar you can get The other thing to do is modify another vehicle’s bullbar. A few over here have used a Toyota Hilux arb bar on their Imprezas and libertys (legacy) with good results. I believe they cut the bar to pull each “side wings” back to match the shape of the frontnof the vehicle. That’s probably your best option as it would be cheap and get the job done in the event you hit another deer. Cheers Bennie

If GD recommends swapping the pistons out, then I guess you could say you made (an unknown) mistake... I didn’t know of this swap either, but it kind of makes sense. Cheers Bennie

http://www.subaxtreme.com/product-category/forester/ This would be the bar to have. Expensive even over here - and getting ANYTHING out of Oz is an arm and a leg price exercise. But I’ve heard of at least one other in the US doing it. I doubt you’d have much left from $5G once fitted - but you’d be the envy of all your mates and other Forester drivers too. And they’re fully airbag compliant. Cheers Bennie

806730031 - OILSEAL-30X50X9 RH 806730032 - OILSEAL-30X50X9 LH these seals are RH and LH specific. You’ll also want one of these for each side: 806975010 - O RING,74.5X2 I hope this helps out. Cheers Bennie

There’s a few old members that have dropped off the forum. Glad you’re back, even if it is with a new account. Gotta ask, what does the “Fer” bit mean? Cheers Bennie

All I can say is that it should work fine. Doubt you’ll get a power increase but you might get more topend power. The head will definitely bolt on no problems. Cheers Bennie

You need to find a factory service manual. You should easily find one online. Once you have this, find the ECU pinout schematics and trace that red wire. It’ll explain what it is, and if it’s a power wire, which I reckon it is, you’ll know what you need. Alternatively, use a multimeter to check continuality with the wires at the power relay and see if there’s any link there. The other wire/place to check is the permenant power wire - any red wire at the back of the fuse box and see if there’s a link. Wires don’t just burn out either. There must be a reason such as a stez permenent power wire being removed and the exposed wiring grounding out to earth. Really, you *should* be able to just reconnect that wire and go from there without issue - so long as all the proper fuses are used in the fuse box under the dash and the bonnet. All the best with it. Cheers Bennie

I’m with DaveT on all those points except the EA comments. EJ the EA chassis and enjoy! Soooo much better than the EA82 ever was and I’ve not ever leaked as much oil since! The only lifter tick I get now is when I’m near due for an oil change and the oil level is near the bottom of the low mark. Love the L with the sort of power it should’ve had from the factory! Cheers Bennie

Geez mate rough trot!! I hope all is on the mend! Cheers Bennie

Hey Al, it’s not that it’s difficult to do the electric windows mod (not that it’d know, I haven’t done it yet), it’s just that there are other, more important things that cropped up Youll be right! Cheers Bennie

Pics didn’t work for me mate (but I’m on my phone so that’s not much of a surprise). I hope they work for others! Glad the electric windows worked out for you. Did you use the front or the rear regulators and did you have to reposition the “crescent” cog to make the windows go all the way down properly? I remember that bit being a bastard of a job to do - and I’ll be doing it again on my brumby at some stage too... With the electric mirrors, you should’ve got the wiring too, even if it meant pulling the body loom for it. Once stripped down it’d be a piss easy piece of wiring to deal with! And I’ve got the same plans as you for this... started back in 2008 I think from memory! I can’t wait to actually see the pics! Cheers Bennie

Look up the king spring website for availability. I’m sure you can still order them new at a decent price. If you want lift, go for the HD springs. Your rear springs will be pretty toasty by now. Cheers Bennie

Hmmm... on this advice I better go tell my old man to give up on his ‘29 chev and ‘42 Willy’s jeep. Seriously though, if you can get an L for off-roading, why would you want a Forester, first gen especially?? If you know what you’re doing around and under a vehicle you’ll be sweet. I’ve only killed one shaft off-road - front shaft - where I managed to shatter the outer joint’s ball cage. Funnily enough, it was the first time I was out bush with my new lift and tyres. Dunno what’s changed, other than that shaft, but I’ve not had any issues since. One trick I do know of is to set your lift up so you’re not increasing the angle on the CVs by much. Too many people drop the hubs WAY lower than the gearbox/rear diff and that’s asking for shaft issues! Cheers Bennie

The apocalyptic talk from GD might just have this part of the forum shut down... You guys must wheel wrong if you’re breaking axles every time you’re out bush! Its called mechanical sympathy over ego... simple as that. Cheers Bennie

Nice mate, got any pics?

No harm in trying the additive. Worst case it still leaks and you’ve lost a couple of bucks. But would this give you piece of mind knowing there’s potentially a ticking time bomb waiting to do the same or worse? The L series had plastic end tanks on their heater cores, these used to let go all the time... but I’ve not heard of an EJ core going now that I think about it. Cheers Bennie

What model vehicle are we talking about here? You may have knocked a vacuum line off or a hose on the intake tract that could be messing with your air meter readings. That’s all I can think of... Cheers Bennie

I’m waiting for GD to chime in about the move to an EJ platform... GD? As to your questions, the steering extension should be part of the lift kit. You’ll want bigger wheels. I’ve got a 3 inch kit and 27 inch tyres, a sweet combo even for some quite technical stuff. And if you want to do a lot of off-roading in this long term, do some stitch (or full) welding of the sheet metal seams. If I did an L series again I’d weld all door jamb and window seams, then do others as deemed necessary. To turn those larger wheels you’ll probably want more power. An EJ conversion is the best for this. GD will say the EJ22 is becoming longer in the tooth, but I’m sure you’ll still be able to find a good unit. The EJ25 from the Gen3 would be a good option too. Avoid the dual overhead cam EJ25 Next is brakes. Either learn to drive appropriately, find a set of rear discs from an RX/Vortex or even rarer, find the XT6 setup with the five stud conversion. Or find an EJ brake conversion setup. Other accessories are typically DIY... Cheers Bennie

Dunno how the EA81 would go with the tyres. Sluggish at best but many have run the 27s and factory drive train. I shudder at the thought. I had my EJ before I was lifted, I still wonder how anyone with the EA81/EA82 and 27s did it. Now I’ve got a built gearbox that pulls my gearing back to factory. It goes great to say the least! Cheers Bennie PS: keep it clean, drive it neat and the Po-Po won’t be a problem - unless you get trapped in one of those vehicle road worthy check stations they always run during “festive seasons”.

I’ve done the same on my three inch extension - I had to carefully file an “extension” to the splines. Like you, worked a treat Cheers Bennie

The ONLY GL10s I’ve ever known, seen or heard of were turbo. This is the first non turbo one I’ve seen. Unless someone’s done a dodgy and slipped a replacement carb engine in there, this goes against what everyone knows a GL10 to be. Cheers Bennie

That’s not a true GL10. Stickers on the rear doors don’t mean a thing, and the fact it’s a carb engine says it all really. Bogus GL10. The author doesn’t know much about the good ol’ L series. Dual range was pretty much a standard option in the series II. Bogus info, but a clean looking unit none the less. Cheers Bennie

You light look at how to secure them from behind the bar with some cable (zip) ties. I’ve done this on my brumby with the little cover panels for the bumperettes as they can fall off if a bit loose with their age (or someone nicks them). It’ll work if the tabs are a loop type arrangement. Or you add something to hold them in better than just being clipped in (sikaflex comes to mind, or an appropriately placed screw or two). Time to get creative. Cheers Bennie

How much higher is a little higher above idle? You don’t want to see anything above 14.8v when charging. This too would indicate a dead alternator. Could make for a good welder but battery charging is no longer an option for that unit. Monitor, it’ll rear it’s ugly head soon enough if it’s alternator related! Cheers Bennie

You need an image host site like photobucket etc. then use the direct link with some forum code to show the image in your thread. As for your location, I can’t see that detail on my phone without looking at your profile page, something I rarely do... it wasn’t until I posted about the rhd/lhd comment that I noticed you used the “brumby” name... then it clicked that you must’ve been from Oz! Cheers Bennie