el_freddo

Try this fella? Cheers Bennie

MINT! Cheers Bennie

In reference to FerGloyale’s “driveline” term. Certainly not a driveshaft/halfshaft. Cheers Bennie

That’d be a fifteen speed Cheers Bennie

The ignition relay from memory is a brown relay and will be with a second relay (fuel pump). As for their exact location I’m unsure, but I’d reckon it’s above the driver’s kick panel mounted either on the firewall or more likely on the inner side of the dashboard. Unfortunatley I can’t help much more than that. A google image search might give you an idea of what to look for. Cheers Bennie

The spark from the coil, is this with the engine turning over or by triggering the coil manually? I’m only ask because if you’ve got spark at the coil with the engine turning over, this indicates that the module is doing it’s thing. The issue lies between the coil, dizzy and four spark plugs. My guess would be a dud coil lead. If you’re triggering the coil manually you’ve got a working coil and the issue is most likely the module. Do you have the little four star trigger wheel installed correctly? Cheers Bennie

Expect to be shocked when you remove the glass. Bubbles or any hint of rust means is much worse under/behind the glass. Prepare to see rust holes once the windscreen is removed. It’s best to remove the dashboard before attempting to weld up any holes etc. This way you can protect all the wiring by covering it before you start any welding. Dad tried repairing my sister’s L sedan and almost set all the wiring behind the dash on fire! He was very lucky it didn’t go up good and proper!! Cheers Bennie

I so wish we got the RXII over here! I would’ve totally had one years ago!! Keep up the good work. That lip/air dam will look be interesting to see once it’s finished Cheers Bennie

Yeah mate neat ride. Got any further details to share? Cheers Bennie

Nice L Jeff! Welcome to the forum! Cheers Bennie

A properly built lift kit should not put any extra strain on the factory components. Putting oversized tyres on the other hand, will put extra strain on the factory components. The extra strain comes in when you do silly things like a 2 inch strut lift only. Do a 2 inch body and suspension lift and you’re still at factory angles on the drive shafts. Cheers Bennie

This is awesome in the fact that it seems you’ve retained the factory driveshaft too by the looks of things. Does this mean your rear track is now the same as that of the donor liberty/legacy? Cheers Bennie

Wow, good introduction! Welcome to the forum. I hope you got this thing REAL cheap! Have you asked the previous owner about what the engine came from? Otherwise pics might help identify the model the engine may have come from. Cheers Bennie

Awesome sharing mistakes. Both are gold and I’m sure you’ll both look back at them with the same light given enough time. I’m sure I’ve made mistakes but the only ones I can think of were more about learning - like pulling a gearbox down three times (on the bench) to work out why reverse wouldn’t work. Turns out you can’t put phase two gears sets into a phase one case set hand have all gears including reverse work. There was a lot of time wasted there. On the first EA82 rebuild I did - had both cams orientated at 12 o’clock when the cam belt went back on. It took me some time to work that one out. Never got it wrong since. I don’t work in a shop and I’m not professionally trained either, it’s only my own mechanical work that I waste time on, much like Jonathan909. Cheers Bennie

@sparkyboy - and for others - don’t forget that when in a low gear you have to rotate the input shaft MANY times to even see a change of orientation at the output shaft... I should’ve added in my first post about the rotating of the input shaft - don’t just do one, do many so that you’re investigating all of the gear’s teeth in doing so. When the gearbox in neutral, the output shaft may rotate when the input shaft is rotated. And I would expect in a fresh box that this would always be the case due to tight tolerances. Cheers Bennie

Sounds like oil slipping past the rings after shutdown. To mimic the lean to the RHS you could park on that level space then drive up on to a brick that’s placed under each wheel on the LHS. Then leave it over night/a few hours etc. Cheers Bennie

Rust issues? Bugger! Definitely pull the windscreen as I’d bet my right nut there’s rust under there. Also check behind the spare wheel, there’s a seam there that typically rusts out, especially if it’s been sealed over. In Oz some are sealed and some aren’t. I got an unsealed one by chance and don’t have an issue. Cheers Bennie

If you’ve got the whole vehicle you’re winning on that front, especially if it’s running! I’d pull the wiring, cut it down, then hook everything up to the engine and fuel pump to do a test run. If all checks out, move forward with the mechanical side of the build and all the general maintenance stuff that goes with it (read: $$$s). This way you know your wiring cut down will work once it’s in the BRAT. It should make for an easy conversion without the stress of having to get the wiring right to make the EJ run that’s in the BRAT’s engine bay - I hope that makes some sense. Mall the best with it and remember to have fun along the way. When the wiring becomes a bird’s nest to look at, walk away and clear your head before coming back to it again Cheers Bennie

Fair go fellas. Some people may not have been given the opportunity to learn about these sorts of things. Trust me I know - I work in a trauma informed education setting and we have teenagers that read and/or write at a grade 2/3 level of at all.. add in their complex behaviours due to the trauma they’ve experienced (ranges from abuse to lack of food, inattention, being around drunk/drug affected adults, no secure place to live/sleep etc). I’ll wait for a reply to see what ferp comes back with, then we’ll go from there. Cheers Bennie

Welcome to the forum Ivy! Youve got one of the best colours that Subaru ever brought out! I love that blue and would love to have an MY wagon in that colour too. I’ve got an L series in that colour (or slight variation of). Keep the pics coming! Cheers Bennie

Correct dizzy cap? Is the little carbon tip present and making contact with the rotor button? I’m not 100% sure that the dizzy caps are different between the two dizzy models, but it’s highly likely that they are. Cheers Bennie

If doing head gaskets do both. What if you get the wrong one? Or you replace one only to have the other pop a few miles own the road? Another trick for the TOD is to add a small spacer behind the oil pressure relief valve’s spring. 3mm is probably about the most you’d want to go. Even a clean out of this area could help. There may be decades of crud stuck in there stopping the valve ball from closing completely. Cheers Bennie

I had the same issue on the brumby, although it was with my sister for a few weeks up in the “hot interior” of northern Vic in the middle of summer. She kept topping up the water (no use putting coolant in at this stage!), temp didn’t flare but I was suspecting a blown head gasket. Once home I found it to be that pesky coolant line from the block under the intake - it was a steady drip at idle that got worse with revs. How she didn’t run it out of cooling fluid I don’t know. Head gaskets still fine If you get an EA, this is the first hose to swap out! Cheers Bennie

Upgrade the rear springs to Honda units and you’ll be able to load it up as needed without any sag Cheers Bennie

Yeah sorry, I should’ve been more specific about the series of vehicle it came from - basically the L series platform as such in the models mentioned above. Awesome box if you look after them. Mine goes very well off-road and it does what I want it to do onroad. Cheers Bennie