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el_freddo

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Everything posted by el_freddo

  1. As I’ve previosuly mentioned in your other thread, rust - make sure it’s not a rust bucket! This means getting under the car and having a good look. From what I’ve seen of salt effected cars over there, if it’s got serious rust issues it’ll look like the side of the titanic under there. Walk away if it is. I’m only saying this due to the reference of it having studded tyres. Cheers Bennie
  2. I doubt the valves just snapped shut as the cams will usually continue to rotate with the momentum gained from the engine revs. This then goes out of time with the rotation of the pistons and that’s where the collisions between the valves and the pistons occur. At idle you might be lucky and not have any damage. When driving you’re sure to have bent valve issues. Time for an EJ22 long block swap. Ah, hang on, your foresters - EJ22 or EJ25? Our early ones are EJ20. The EJ22 long block swap is a good one for off-roaders and the factory ECU does the job well. Cheers Bennie
  3. I watch that and think “if they had the dual range gearboxes like we do, I wonder what they’d get into then!”. Great video. Cheers Bennie
  4. Top effort mate! Were they happy with what they saw? Mans was the fuel pump a requirement to a certified one or is it just dead/dying and needing replacement? I’m keen to see this thing out and about but am a bit far south to just drop in on an event... Cheers Bennie
  5. You have small GST over there! Ours is 10%... Over here at a dealer it’s $30AU!! It seems all genuine parts are at a premium at the dealers - captive audience for most consumers! Cheers Bennie
  6. My thoughts too until mdjdc said it still has compression - hopefully established through an actual compression test and not from listening while cranking. Any valves that aren’t bent (if that’s even possible) will build compression, or may build enough to sound like it’s got compression - or still be smashing valves. Only it’ll sound different to how it normally does. Cheers Bennie
  7. Not in the Loyale. The EA82 has a myriad of problems with it. The EA81 found in the brat is the reliable as the EJ22 unit. @Ravenwoods - NLA = no longer available The EA engines above are 1.8L. EA81 is pushrod, can under crank, bullet proof if you keep the oil and coolant where it should be. The EA82 is OHC with small cam belts and always have oil leaks and the tick of death from hydraulic lash adjusters (HLAs) that don’t pressure up properly. If it’s running studded tyres I’d bet that it’s got serious rust issues if it’s seen salt on the roads. Lastly, this would be posted in the EA/80’s subforum, even though it’s a 90’s year build. Cheers Bennie
  8. If you took a photo of the six pin relay diagram and visited an auto electrical store I’m sure they’ll have what you need - and the service assistant should know what you’re after or at the very least how to track it down. The pin setup may be different to the factory unit. Cheers Bennie
  9. Self tappers used in the slot and bolt trick? I’ve not heard of that. What I did is probably what’s documented in the threads above: remove the tube piece with the ~45* angle bar on it that goes to the lever pivot. Grind/cut a good slot in the tube, perpendicular to the bolt holes so that the slot goes beyond where the holes are. I cut my slot to be about 3mm wide. Replace on the vehicle then drill the hole out to a larger size, this includes drilling the gear selector rod. Have a bolt that matches the hole size. Place the bolt in the hole then do up the nut as tight as all buggery! A lock nut will work well for this job. You’ll feel like you’ve got a sports shifter once this is done! Cheers Bennie
  10. Got some pics to share? Welcome to the forum Cheers Bennie
  11. Fair enough. I love it. Less work. Car not on jacks, coolant lines remain sealed. And with the gearbox strapped onto the motor cycle jack I find it a safe operation. That’s odd. Unless you’re going from and up-spec Gen1 to a budget/low-spec Gen2. Cheers Bennie
  12. Whoa, @GeneralDisorder will have something to say about this! He must be sick of reading this stuff! @JohnCT - have you also thought about a local exhaust shop to build a replacement piece? I tend not to trust off the shelf aftermarket stuff from the net, especially fleabay! Cheers Bennie Edit: it could be worth getting the injectors flow tested and serviced - this will insure injector 4 is working properly and not leaning out due to blockage or some other injector related issue
  13. There’s no need to pop the ball joints with the gearbox on a jack. Pull backwards until clear of the engine. Either push box one way, remove one shaft, move the other and remove second shaft. Or slowly drop box out, removing the shafts as you go. Do the reverse as you put the box back in. Make sure you’ve got the cotter pin hole line up correctly. The cotter pin can be knocked in before you go any further so you know it’s all sorted. For me, if it’s gearbox/clutch or rear main related, it’s box out. Much less to deal with and I don’t have to split the cooling system - which means I don’t have to catch and possibly replace the coolant. And yeah, if you suspect the car is stolen, walk away. Or you could try offering $200 if they have the title - that extra $50 could be that little bit of an incentive to get their A into G. Cheers Bennie
  14. Looking and sounding good mate. It’s a big project you’ve undertaken. Remember the end goal! and keep up the good work! Thise chrome trim pieces in the windscreen/windshield rubbers - I’ve found them to be much easier to install with the rubber on the glass prior to fitting the glass to the vehicle Cheers Bennie
  15. @idosubaru - what are you using the 32mm twelve point socket for?? A 22mm is needed for the crank pulley, but I’ve never used a 32mm other than on EJ castellated nuts on their driveshafts. Curious... Bennie
  16. Possibly. Shafts you don’t suff around with. As soon as you find a split boot, change it! Replace shafts with genuine. As for replacing outter joint, it could be worth a try. I’m guessing this is the joint that went bad on the original shaft. Cheers Bennie
  17. I’d have to check but I’m pretty sure the EJ20 and EJ22 heads have the same combustion chamber dimensions. Valves might be smaller in the EJ20 but that’s really no issue. Cheers Bennie
  18. Once you’ve got your new thread/topic up and running, just copy the web address and paste it in here. The forum will do the rest Cheers Bennie
  19. Shift rod as in the pitch stopper rod that goes between the firewall and gearbox? Its probably best to collate a list of what you need and find someone wrecking a vehicle in your area or visit a you pull it parts yard. engine/gearbox bolts are common across many models. The pitch stopper rod I believe is the same but there my be slight differences between some models. Cheers Bennie
  20. Welcome Mark. Top shelf on the left Did you pull your legacy apart or did you buy it in pieces? You guys seem to have a few good online parts sites that will sell what ever parts you need and post them in your direction Cheers Bennie
  21. I’d want to walk in there already known some codes. It could be a simple fix that’ll be an expensive exercise at a dealership. Who knows, the code could point at something for you to investigate that gets you started on some self maintenance if you’re into that sort of thing. Cheers Bennie
  22. It’s exactly the same as the 2.5 kit/setup if both are SOHC or DOHC. The tensioner setup can be different but a) this doesn’t ultimately change the belt setup and b) the tensioners are interchangable using their corresponding mount plates Is this your first timing belt job? Cheers Bennie
  23. If you’re worried about exhaust restriction, get some larger cars designed for larger capacity engines. Keep cats, get “better” exhaust flow, probably not get a check light, winning. Whats wrong with your current cats? Cheers Bennie
  24. I loved this line! as for axles, I reckon the brumby is on par for axle strength. The issue is that the brat runs in front wheel drive all the time so “power” is only pushed through two shafts as opposed to some real power using all four shafts. Many wrx conversions are done to the brat so the shafts must be doing alright in the strength department. Cheers Bennie
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