el_freddo

The wash and wipe without turning the wipers to the Lo position is standard Jono! I’ve not tried the ignition in the ACC position, but I’d say the wiper’s function when doing the same thing is wired up for ON ignition position only. Cheers Bennie

I love that colour! Cheers Bennie

Welcome to the forum 3crows. Sounds like you know your way around already. Got any pics of your subi(s)? Cheers Bennie

Hey guys, I’m hoping someone might help me out. I’m requesting a Legacy SS VIN for the purpose of looking up parts. We didn’t get the SOHC EJ22 turbo in Australia, we got a DOHC EJ20, so parts or diagrams don’t suit what I’m looking for. If anyone can help me out that’d be awesome. Feel free to PM me. Regards Bennie

That’s awesome news! Time to fit a taser into the seat for anyone not authorised to drive the vehicle. Or an air horn and strobe light for maximum sensory overload I’m really stoked for you getting your ride back! So, did you ditch the crack, smoke (dumb idea!) or sell it?? I vote ditched it. Cheers Bennie

Welcome to the forum Mitchy! Post somempics of your subi’s when you get a chance. We all love pics around here Cheers Bennie

Get into it before you seriously overheat the block. This reduces the hardness of the alloys used in the block, and thus, it’s not as good as it was in the past, even with a new HG. Cheers Bennie

If it’s a dull clunking sound - and heard on “smooth” roads with tiny bumps or undulations in the road surface, it’ll be your struts that have worn. If it’s an easily audible clunking sound do as Lucky Texan said and re-check the work you’ve done. Cheers Bennie

Nice wagon. Shame about that body damage. Seeing that must’ve been gut wrenching. I look forward to seeing the recovery of your damage. Cheers Bennie

Best of luck. I hope she rocks up in one piece. It’s gut wrenching when someone’s messed around with your ride let alone stolen it. Cheers Bennie

Going with a dual range 5 speed swap as well? Looks good and she (or is it a he?) certainly does scrub up well! Cheers Bennie

I would’ve left all that emissions gear if it wasn’t doing anything nasty. Mine’s pinging atm and I don’t know why. Very frustrating! So I don’t have an answer as to why it’s running rich now. Also you should’ve kept the charcoal canister. It’s one of the first bits of the emissions gear that came out. It stops your fuel tank from venting vapours to the atmosphere. @sparkyboy - you should check out the ‘71 LC Torana. I had one of those in the 4 door with a 186 red engine (the EJ22 of the straight six red engine series). Loved that car. A mate wrote it off and that’s ultimately what got me into Subaru’s... otherwise I’d still be playing with those now I reckon (check out the LJ XT6 Torana - the one to have. The LC series had the GTS prior to the XT6 and came in hot pink!). Also check out the ‘68 HK Monaro. The V8 GTS had a 327 chev small block. Awesome looking vehicle! It was also available as a GTS with a 186 “S” pack engine that was tweaked for better performance, it had several gearbox options too. I digress, and now find myself wanting a bigger shed!! Cheers Bennie

@sparkyboy - The RS is practically a factory sleeper over here - subtle boonet scoop and downplayed sports styling... no one looks twice at these unless a) you’re blarting past them which they don’t expect or b) they know what an RS is all about. From factory they’ve got a water to air intercooler, the boner scoop isn’t really needed! I can’t wait to get mine going!! It won’t look as good as this one but anyway, it’s an RS and I’ll enjoy driving it! Cheers Bennie

My hunch is head gasket leak. Using the AC loads the engine enough that the cooling system can no longer “look after” the blown head gasket and thus over heats If this is the issue, it’ll only get worse over time Cheers Bennie

Wheel bearings. Diffs usually whine when loaded on or off throttle, but typically not when coasting. This is why I think it’s wheel bearing related. Cheers Bennie

Holy cow that’s some thorough information!! Top effort! Cheers Bennie

G’day Zeb, welcome to the forum! Not everything is backwards, just the steering stuff really. Everything on the engine is on the same side etc. Sorry to her about your grandfather. Sounds like he had good motoring taste though! Get onto any rust ASAP and keep her under cover if possible. I’m wishing I had a carport or enough room in the shed for mine. Got any pics to share? Cheers Bennie

That’s the touring wagon spec. And looking at the boulstering in the seats I reckon that could be a JDM thing, although the advert says GL10... Youll need the seat backs too. Cheers Bennie

Yeah we do! (OBD1 EJ22 in my L series) I’m now about to replace the CTS, and I’ve just replaced the O2 sensor since this film was made. Cheers Bennie

I’ve got a mate over here that would love to have that shell! But that won’t be happening... Cheers Bennie

Got any pics of these struts? Cheers Bennie

Sorry, I meant flash as in remove stored codes. No good changing sensors, check codes and still have the same stored codes showing up. You’ll be chasing your tail if you’re not clearing these! May least that’s how I operate in my shed, it works for me every time. Cheers Bennie

Hmmm... graphic equaliser (say it in a Homer Simpson voice with some drool ) @Giles - I'd be pulling all CV shafts down, cleaning, regreasing and putting quality new CV boots (“bellows” - cool name). Double check that you’ve got an LSD our the back, over here they were optional on the Vortex/XT4. If so it’s also a good time to service the clutch packs that will most likely be worn out. I’ve read that some sort of Nissan clutch packs fit in since the r160 is essentially the same diff. Cheers Bennie

There’s a set of connectors to erase stored codes, but I’m unsure about the exact details. Instead I do the “battery dance” - disconnect the battery for a few minutes. Half hour to be really sure! Start the engine but do not touch the throttle. Idle may waiver up and down a little, this is normal. Don’t touch the throttle or put it in gear until the fans have cycled at least once, I usually do twice. Then you can go for a drive or shut it down and have lunch etc. By checking timing I’m taking about the cam belt timing. Sorry I should’ve been more explicit about that. Just check to see that it’s all aligned as it should be. Cheers Bennie

Just go and visit a (or a few) tyre specialists/dealers and talk with them knowing the info that Matt and other members have contributed in here. They’ll be able to give you an upfront answer and you can ask more questions with a much quicker turn around in reply time. I think you’re over thinking this and really just need to get a new set of tyres. I’ve been reading since the first post and now it seems you’ve got the tyre you want but then nit pick for something else. It took me less than ten minutes on the phone to decide on my tyre choice. And I always get an alignment with new tyres, always! Alignments are cheap insurance to get the most life (=distance) from your tyre. . Bennie