el_freddo

On closer look - holy crap!! I’ve only seen one other brumby in such good condition and it’s not a targa, but it does have 288k km on it. The guy traded it in at the same dealer he originally brought it from! The dealer polished it up and it’s now on display in their showroom with all the models. It’s seriously like looking at a 3D catalogue for the model! I noticed that you don’t have a fender indicator, but you have a side reflector in the front bumper. I’ve not noticed this before and will have to keep an eye out for this detail on other US brats as I’ve not noticed it before. Here’s our setup over the puddle in Oz: On the stock bumper there’s no reflector. Cheers Bennie

That’s one huge chunk of carbon! Are you sure it wasn’t a chunk of the piston, or part of a ring landing or a ring? What’s the bore look like, smooth or gouged out? No rod knock? Cheers Bennie

If it were the crank angle sensor the engine wouldn’t idle. Same for the cam angle sensor. I had my cam angle sensor back out of its mount after putting my engine back together because I didn’t nip up the retainer bolt properly. This initially created an intermittent issue as hills were climbed until the engine finally cut out and wouldn’t start again until the issue was found. I’ve not heard of crank or cam angle sensors going bad. They’re just a magnet and a big pile of fine copper wire wrapped around it to pick up a signal, the one I pulled apart was very well sealed, so I can’t see the weather busting into one of these. @Ravenwoods - after the cutout, what is the “quality” of the idle? Is it smooth, rough, miss firing, high/low, does it create a vibration, will it rev freely with the clutch in - and with the clutch engaged does it take up the load or die again? I think @idosubaru has raised a good point - time to start data logging and taking a closer look at the situations when it happens, how long into the drive that it happens, what the rough ambient temps are - and even things Ike fuel tank level according to the highly accurate Subaru fuel gauge <insert sarcasm here>. Cheers Bennie

Fans are ecu controlled, so there’s two sensors - ECU and temp gauge. Unless that changed between the Gen1 and the Gen2. As for weak, I can attest to that with my EJ22 converted L series - got a temp sensor code. Needs a new one. Fans don’t operate all the time so it’s not completely dead, and it’s not throwing a check engine light. I found it when I checked for codes. Cheers Bennie

Don’t give up on her yet! You’re bound to come across some issues along the way! I’ve wanted to burn mine a few times, I even lined up a better body but I couldn’t bring myself to doing the swap. That was about seven years ago now. She’s still kicking and loving the offroad stuff! Cheers Bennie

Love it! I was going to say that the rally mods done to the old L series involved welding a triangular plate in that same section. They also welded a plate over a seam just under each corner of the windscreen and a plate in each foot well up front. But that will certainly do the job. Spreading the load I’d say it’ll be fine and not rip out the door hinge mount section (lower A pillar section?). Keep up the good work! Cheers Bennie

If you’ve got the backing plate you can swap the tensioner - but I don’t know why you’d want to. I’ve not heard of any issues with the old piston tensioner yet I’ve heard and experienced a failure of the integrated style tensioner. I’ve got 10 years and two or three timing belt replacements on one tensioner. I’ve had the cam belt off a few times in that time too. So did business go well @Basket_case ? Cheers Bennie

You’ve learnt a golden rule of the flat four. If replacing one head gasket, you always replace both. If there are issues on one side you can expect issues on the other side too. That bolt you’ve put in to stop the coolant coming out is a head bolt hole that has other smaller bolts drilled in the side of it. You’ve effectively plugged the head gasket leak with that little bolt. If you’re pulling threads it could be several reasons as to why: 1) block severely overheated, resulting in the alloy being soft 2) dirty thread on a bolt used, damaging the thread, or that thread was cross threaded 3) over torqued bolts Cheers Bennie

That is quite the find and I’m stoked to hear you’re keeping it stock! Over here I’ve only ever seen one beige targa brumby, but I’m pretty sure it was a roof chop job. I’ve seen a few beige targas in the states, they always look different. Keep her mint and enjoy! Cheers Bennie

When my pump let go there was zero warning. It collapsed anbearing or something nasty. Spewed oil everywhere. Had to drive without the belt on which meant no alternator. That was a fun trip off the mountain from one of our snow resorts in pursuit of the crank/alt only belt. Only just made it with the dual battery hooked in to keep me going. The batteries were at 8v at the parts store. Ecu wasn’t having much fun. It’s always handy to carry that smaller belt to eliminate the PS pump from the equation if needed. I hope yours is an easy fix. Cheers Bennie

I doubt there’s a misfire code for the ‘96. What plugs did you use? Cheers Bennie

1. No. Fit the tensioner, put the belt on as you normally would 2. Correct. Once belt is on and you’re all happy, move the tensioner up against the pulley then tighten the bolts down. I use a large flat blades screw driver to apply some pressure (if not at the end of the slots) then I tighten the bolts down. 3. Dunno. I always go by hand. There should be a general bolt size and torque setting guide in the manual of memory serves me correct. Cheers Bennie

It’ll be due to the forum crossover from the old to new platform. You’ll probably find many threads like this that have the same issue. Someone that has the correct privileges and knows the link will be able to change it, as will the original author if they’re still around here. Cheers Bennie

Is that an EJ22 heads gasket? I’ve not seen that part number before. Cheers Bennie

@Steptoe - that blanked section where we have a coin bucket/pocket, I reckon there’s a speaker behind it, going by the horizontal grille arrangement. I’d say that gear selector setup is factory. It’s probably a hatch, being a DL it’s the typical povo pack, maybe with carpet added. Cheers Bennie

Neat (but dirty) looking brat! Heads up: EA82 shafts are not compatible with the EA81 units. Only usable part is the inner joint unless the EA82 shaft is from an MPFI/turbo. Cheers Bennie

Where there’s a will, there’s a way... Rim size doesn’t mean much in terms of rolling diameter. I got new tyres on my brumby recently and swapped the rims size from 13 inch to 14 inch. No change to ride height or speedo reading as I purchased the same rolling diameter sized tyre of the 13 inch rims for the 14 inch rims. Yes the forester tyre is taller and this, has a larger rolling diametre. With some effort - such as a lift kit and a GPS, you could fit those tyres and rims from the forester onto the outback - then drive by GPS for the correct speed reading. Starting off might be harder due to the gearing change but the auto will do it well. It seems like you’ve made up your mind - purchase the outback and find an engine for it. Cheers Bennie

Bendigo eh? I missed that detail if it was shared. I’m yet to visit Bathurst and “do a lap”. Keep me posted and we’ll see what we can do And top effort on the inspector’s remark. That must’ve been a good feeling! So now the log book is in, what’s the first event? Cheers Bennie

Junk yard will be your friend. My understanding is that the barckets will all fit an EJ22 If from an EJ22 of the same phase. Since you’re retro fitting the AC compressor grab one that’s bolted to the bracket, that way you know the compressor fits what you need. Then photograph the VIN plate for future reference. Have your custom hoses made up, wire in the compressor clutch to your AC system’s compressor control wire; lastly, wire in the pressure switch in series with the one in the factory loom. Cheers Bennie

Pretty much what Lucky texan said: I believe the direction of rotation is optimal for acceleration and especially for braking. You wont notice any difference when cruising along, mainly when braking - and moreso in the wet. Block shape/placement and the diagonal slits all play a part in the grip provided. Most of it will come down to braking. Nachaluva was running a 4wd tyre backwards on our last couple of trips and there was no issue with that corner loosing grip over the other tyres being runnin the correct direction. Mind you, this was on dry clay/rock with one section of boggy mud that he did in a huge hole. No issues. Running tyres from 2003 is more concerning if they’ve been left out in the sun etc. Cheers Bennie

Who said anything about putting kids in the back?? No one, except you FerGloyale! It’s a moot point. Jump seats are cool. We didn’t get them due to our design rules. I know of one set imported into Oz - but they’re only for show and not for road use. Plus they chew up too much usable load carrying space where you put the heaviest gear. I doubt I’d want to be in these seats cruising the bush with our dusty conditions! I felt for those dudes in the back of AristoBrat - but as you said, it was their choice... Either way, back on topic - Brat/Brumby for me even with a family. It’s my daily, I can buy others too but I don’t and won’t ever have access to a Baja since they’re a US only model. And I have no hard feelings about that either. Cheers Bennie

As I’ve previosuly mentioned in your other thread, rust - make sure it’s not a rust bucket! This means getting under the car and having a good look. From what I’ve seen of salt effected cars over there, if it’s got serious rust issues it’ll look like the side of the titanic under there. Walk away if it is. I’m only saying this due to the reference of it having studded tyres. Cheers Bennie

I doubt the valves just snapped shut as the cams will usually continue to rotate with the momentum gained from the engine revs. This then goes out of time with the rotation of the pistons and that’s where the collisions between the valves and the pistons occur. At idle you might be lucky and not have any damage. When driving you’re sure to have bent valve issues. Time for an EJ22 long block swap. Ah, hang on, your foresters - EJ22 or EJ25? Our early ones are EJ20. The EJ22 long block swap is a good one for off-roaders and the factory ECU does the job well. Cheers Bennie

I watch that and think “if they had the dual range gearboxes like we do, I wonder what they’d get into then!”. Great video. Cheers Bennie

Top effort mate! Were they happy with what they saw? Mans was the fuel pump a requirement to a certified one or is it just dead/dying and needing replacement? I’m keen to see this thing out and about but am a bit far south to just drop in on an event... Cheers Bennie