el_freddo

I’ve also heard of ppl using the MPFI temp sensor too. From memory they adapt the SPFI wiring to the MPFI sensor. I hope it’s as easy as replacing this sensor! Cheers Bennie

I used to put a 3mm spacer behind the oil pressure relief valve spring. I have no idea what it did to oil pressure but I’d say it held the valve closed for longer. Now I haven’t had this issue for the best part of a decade. Cheers Bennie

Oil pump will be fine! That’s apparently a NLA item so if it’s good I wouldn’t be binning it - collect them! Turbo might need a service if there’s any oil varnish on the bushes (bearings) due to sitting for an excessive amount of time without a start up. It might be just fine too. Giles, I thought you’d worked on the modern stuff too. I didn’t realise an ‘85 XT would be your most modern vehicle you’ve worked on! Sounds like a huge project, I’m looking forward to build pics etc! As for engine bay clean, just avoid hitting electrical connections with high pressure. It also pays to clean them out with some wd40 after you’ve done with wash work. Cheers Bennie

Hey nice coupe! What you need for the 4wd conversion is: - rear “K” frame that the suspension mounts to. This will also require the swing arms with the stub axle that is splined and rostered. You’ll need the drum/disc and associated parts too. - rear diff and drive shafts - moustache bar and mount points left and right. This part holds the back of the diff in place. To fit this to the coupe you’ll need to drill holes and work out how to get annut behind the holes. You could get lucky and find a set of holes with a captive nut in place but it’s not always the case. As for the AWD box, you’ll need to make a custom gearbox crossmember. There are details around here on how to do that. L-Rex on ausubaru.com.au has some awesome details of this in the build of his EJ turbo L series. You can source MPFI or turbo MPFI L series front shafts that will fit the EJ AWD box output stubs no worries. Just make sure the gearbox comes with axle stubs and not the female setup where the driveshaft goes into the gearbox - otherwise it’s custom drive shaft (same if you do the 5 stud conversion with EJ brakes) On the topic of brakes - standard EA will do if you’re not street racing and drive it appropriately. I’d be givin the whole system a good service though and throwing a set of braided brake lines in for good measure. Rear discs would be a beneficial upgrade - but make sure they’re the 4wd ones and that you get the hub, disc, backing plate, caliper and brake line that runs along the swing arm as it’s different to that of the drum brake. No adaptor plate needed for the EJ engine to EJ AWD box - your clutch cable will slip in and do the job. If the clutch was operated by hydraulic from the donor vehicle then you’ll have to source a cablemoperated clutch fork and cable mount (or use yours from the EA box). Engine wiring is always the biggest headache for most. Get that sorted and you’re off and away! Also remember that the EJ AWD box is setup to run a larger diameter tyre to that of the EA’s. You could try doing a diff ratio swap to compensate but that’s pretty involved and you’d want to start with an Impreza or Foz box from my thought/research. Or run the Impreza/liberty sized tyre and do the EJ brake upgrade too. Once you’re all done it’ll be a sweet ride! All the best with it! Cheers Bennie Edit/ps: I should’ve added that to get the 4wd rear end parts get an L series 4wd donor - sedan or wagon, turbo or NA (turbo will have rear discs and possibly a clutch pack lsd if both haven’t been sold off already). Then you’ll have all the bits you need.

There’s a good thread about this when doing the same for 5x100. Its not recommended due to the amount of material that’s removed - lose too much strength in the cast piece. This is for the EJ brake conversion. If you’re just looking for a stud PCD change, you should be alright depending on how close to the original holes the new ones will be. Cheers Bennie

Amen to the EJ22 swap. They should’ve been recalled in the 90’s for a mandatory EJ22 swap Skip the Weber and save for the EJ! Cheers Bennie

What’s even worse is that Gates have apparently gone to poo with Chinese components. Other members will tell you more about this and what to buy instead Cheers Bennie

JesZek is back! Good to hear from you mate. Life does change and spin things around at times. Sounds like it’s been for the better for you and your family! The travel sounds interesting! Cheers Bennie

Sounds like the other five have been swapped out for new ones but that last little bugger was left as is... Hopefully it’s an easy fix. Cheers Bennie

Sweet find mate! A very rare sight over this way! Try blowing compressed air back through the fuel lines. Then if you have time, pull the fuel tank out and give it a good flush. It could be a good idea to service the carb and blow out any crap that would most likely be in there after all those years of allowing the fuel bowl to go dry multiple times. Also replace all rubber fuel lines Cheers Bennie

I’d keep the oil in the box and keep it away from the weather and moisture if possible. I like to store them under my bench off the floor if possible. Otherwise on a block of wood or two on the cement slap (floor) out of the way is the go. You can cover up any openings to reduce the risk of dust getting in. The sun might perish the seals, but it’s take a number of years in a shed. Left out in the Aussie summer sun it could take a year or two to kill the shaft seals Cheers Bennie

It probably deemed exotic as it’s not the original SOHC EJ25D combination. But it definitely comes into the frankenmotor catergory. I was asking which engine management as I’m toying (in the back of my mind - so more like dreaming) with the idea of building one of these for my L series off-roader that’s already Gen1S2 EJ22E equipped. But then I also think that if I break a cam belt in the frankenmotor then I’m up spoob creek without a paddle big time. So it’s in the air as to what happens, probably nothing, but it’s interesting to know the combinations and the engine management that runs them well. Cheers Bennie

Depends on how they’re looking before you put the new gearbox in - or if you want to do them it’s the best time with the box out. Also remember to replace the massive O ring on each side. This is the seal for the threads on the bearing carriers. Cheers Bennie

But Jono is definitely stuck in this era so he’s not inclined to even visit the EJ or BRZ era sub forums let alone post in one Cheers Bennie

There you go. All I know is they can be the nearest thing to the mechanical lock AWD L series system. There’s a few fellas over here running the dccd in their off-roaders. How long they last is yet to be seen though. That said I guess you don’t run them at 100% duty cycle for lock all the time while offroad - only as you need to. Cheers Bennie

@suprunner - which engine management were you using to run the latest incarnation as mentioned above? Cheers Bennie

Is this a statement or a question? As stated, all 5mt gearboxes have a mechanical centre diff that has a weak LSD built into it, rated at “5kg”. I’ve heard of a 12 and a 20kg unit too. How they get this weight rating I don’t know. When ever you hear/read “plated” or “viscous” with “locking” you know they’re talking about a limited slip differential. There is the DCCD centre diff that’s electronically manipulated through some voodoo stuff that I don’t understand. This device can bind the centre diff to equalise the transfer front to rear and vice versa. Which RX model are we talking here? There’s more than one and I’m 99% sure they all had a mechanical centre diff with some sort of LSD build in. The L series RX didn’t have a centre diff as it was a PT4WD box, but there are some models that had the dual range AWD mechanical locking centre diff. Rare to say the least. My qestion to you @border_boxer that’s not a statement: Are you after a response to someone that’s swapped from 4.111:1 diff ratio to the 4.44:1 diff ratio? While I haven’t done this exact ratio change, it will all drop in as per factory. You will need to do the usual diff settings in the preload and backlash departments. And possibly look into a different 5th ratio to maintain decent cruise revs. If not you’ll be pulling high revs with the diff ratio swap. Cheers Bennie

I’ve found it easier to use google search with “site: www.ausubaru.com.au” in the search terms. For me the search on Ausubi .com.au isn’t any good unless you or someone has visited the old thread since the new forum came on line. It could be different for you - and different if you’re on a computer vs on the phone as I am most of the time. Cheers Bennie

And here's some dodgy photos of the tool I made, looks rough but certainly gets the job done: Cheers Bennie

You just need a small extension hose to relocate the oil pressure sender unit. Any decent brake shop will easily make one up for you. Cheers Bennie

I made my own tool and it utilises all four slots in that nut device. I use a large adjustable shifter on it without any issues. Thereare pics of it floating around the interwebs. Too hard basket to find one on my phone atm. Cheers Bennie

You'll love the painted guards - so easy to clean out and they look schmick when they're clean too! Will you be doing the rest of the underside of the vehicle? Keep up the good work! Cheers Bennie

Ummm... So why isn't his insurance covering the damage to your vehicle? He was the one at fault - and the service station should have CCTV footage you could sepena (spelling?). I wouldn't live with it and I'd be chasing down that driver if possible. At the time you should've got all their details and have them contact their insurance company to put in a claim. All the best with it. Bennie

Same for series 2 MPFI NA I can vouch for this mod. Best of both worlds. No adaptor, uses factory EJ clutch setup yet it all bolts right in as per the L series box Cheers Bennie

Intercooler can easily be setup. You should be able to use any standard EJ setup intercooler. As for your other questions, this might be of value: https://ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=11047 Cheers Bennie