el_freddo

While you’ve got the trans out, shove a new rear main seal on the back of the engine And replace the oil/air separator plate if it’s plastic. Cheers Bennie

Over worked coil pack?? It’s be an odd scenario though if that were the case. If your engine doesn’t do that sort of hard pull or those sorts of revs it’ll have issues doingnit out of the blue. I’d have a go at holding the gear and revving the engine out to this point then manually changing the gear into 3rd or drive. No need for WOT to do this. ^ This practise comes from a member on another forum who reckons if it’s a grandma driven car, you need to “train” it to be more lively by doing things gently as you would if you were training from slob to athelete. Yes things won’t magically repair overnight, but going gently harder over time will allow suspension bushes to free up and become more elastic - go like the clappers straight up and you could split a bush or three. It could be the same for an engine and box too, although I’ve never experienced that before. I’d definitely check your timing belt to make sure it’s stull aligned properly - and check for any stored codes too. Cheers Bennie

Not really. Drop the rear diff and moustache bar, drop the tank. Still got a rolling body on your hands. Easy! Cheers Bennie

Unless it’s an EA platform Cheers Bennie

Welcome to the forum! Sounds like you’re having fun in the L. And that’s a good find on the hatch, we have very few (as in maybe 5 in the whole country) over here in Australia. As for the L providing parts to the hatch, there’s not a great deal that’s interchangeable. The dual range five speed box is probably the best part, but then you need the 4wd rear end to match the Hatch. This is the difference in the EA82 (L series) and EA81 (MY/MV) chassis/platform. Really to convert the hatch to 4wd, you’re going to need a factory 4wd EA81 unit for the 4wd rear end... Even the engine in the L series won’t fit (and is a backwards step in my opinion) without modifying the chassis rails to make way for the extra width of the EA82. Cheers Bennie

No need to convert to a hydraulic clutch. Just use the cable clutch fork and move the pivot to match the clutch fork. Then mount the clutch cable mount bracket to the gearbox. Sounds like the trip will be some good fun! And your issue with the auto swap is that you need the TCU, associated wiring - then work out how to mate the TCU in with the ECU so that they talk to each other. Best bet is to rewrite the vehicle with an auto loom from a vehicle of the same model. It’s a lot of work for little gain for most. Cheers Bennie

Well I didn’t know that. All XTs sold in Oz came standard with a back seat. Cheers Bennie

I’ve used partouq.com a few times and they’ve been very good. My only issue is the fluctuation in the currency exchange but other than that they’ve been awesome. They say shipped in two days or less, but they manage to get the parts into Oz in five to seven days from the time I place the order. This is significant since our postal service could take a week to send a letter from the east coast to the west coast. Even via express it could be four days for it to get there! Cheers Bennie

Coolant crossover pipe. Driver’s side for the RHDrive vehicles, Passenger’s side for the WHDrive vehicles. There will be two sensors there. The single wire is the temp gauge on the instrument cluster, the other one that typically has a brown plug and is two wires is for the ECU. That’s the one you want. I need a new one for my EJ22 as well. Cheers Bennie

Satellite radio?? Wtf? I’ve never heard of this in an everyday use vehicle. Digital radio is becoming a thing here in the major cities but that’s in development still and is a free service. Why would you want satellite radio? Cheers Bennie

My brumby/brat is a GL - but that has nothing to do with rear seats... Cheers Bennie

I drove Ruby Scoo from the busy road of our last rental to the new, much quieter location that has off street parking for her Once we're settled in and things are unboxed/in order there will be some Subaru work coming up on the brumby and Ruby Scoo. Cheers Bennie

Wouldn’t matter. They’d still look small. I’m not sure if it’s those “dress” trims that make them look smaller. I’m having difficulty trying to work out if the premiers are 14 inch rims or just 13s. Either way, it’s the premiers for my vote (again!). It’s kind of like asking: black 8 spoke sunnies: or white 5 spoke scorpions: For me it’s a no brainer... Cheers Bennie

I second this. Permier is more Vortex, 8 spoke sunnies is more L series Cheers Bennie

So someone else removed the dash for you?? Cheers Bennie

There is only one world - Brat wins out either way, with an EJ the world is better Cheers Bennie

And it’s not simply a job where the stub axle pulls out, it’s held in by a circlip on the inner side of the spider gear, requiring a gearbox split to sort it out. I’ve never heard of one of these breaking! Rear one yes (hollow for retainer bolt), but not a front one. Cheers Bennie

I can vouch for this. It’s the same for the EA81 from memory too (it’s been about ten years since I pulled an EA81 heater core. I’ll be doing another dash swap in the next month or so). Cheers Bennie

Welcome to the forum! Awesome to see another L being saved. I’m guessing the green L isn’t as good as the blue one - both are touring wagons so they don’t have the same trim spec as such. Personally I prefer the series two which is what the green one is. I’m looking forward to more of your build pics Cheers Bennie

Have you checked the cam belt timing at both cams? The LHS one is the most important as it has the cam angle sensor. If this is out it may cause timing issues that could lead to a detonation issue that could possibly throw a code. I do the “battery dance” for 30 mins to clear the codes. On cold start up, there’s no knocking in the bottom end? Cheers Bennie

Also check the rear door/boot lid seal. If these are damaged they can suck in the exhaust smells. It’s most likely the rust issue as mentioned. Cheers Bennie

What was wrong with the original master cylinder? That’s a weird fix, I hope it’s done the trick though! Cheers Bennie

That’s awesome and a blast from the past! Ruby Scoo is still kicking, there’s some new pics around the forum of her doing her thing. She’s no where near the tidyness of your touring wagon! I say she’s “good from afar, but far from good” which is mostly true. Not bad for over 500k km and the amount of off-roading she’s done in the time I’ve had her. Is Gertie carb fed or MPFI? As for gaskets etc, have you checked out partsouq.com? They’re pretty good for genuine parts. I don’t play much with the EAs anymore. I think the last set of head gaskets I did on the EA81 in my brumby were felpro or torquepro - it was a few years ago now so I’m a bit hazy as to what I used Cheers Bennie

It could be a number of things: - this would throw a CEL usually - the idle air control valve. It could be faulty or have a poor seal, allowing air to bleed past the seal when it’s not needed. - ignition coil pack could be breaking down under heat stress. If the 2000 has an igniter like the earlier models this could also be an issue. - fuel pump could certainly be the issue. I’d probably start here if you don’t know the history of the pump. But that said, my sister’s 2000 Liberty has over 400k km and we don’t know the history of the pump on that one. If you can swap ignition coil packs with a mate to test that it’s the issue go that way. Same for the igniter (again, if your car has one). Cheers Bennie

I’d be checking the cam belt alignment. Sounds like the cams could be out a few teeth... Cheers Bennie