el_freddo

For all of those out there contemplating an EJ conversion, this is one of the reasons why buying a donor vehicle can be easier - especially for the first timer. But with that said, this is how I've gone about it twice now - building a conversion from parts of several cars - why? Mainly because I've been given parts from some good mates which only require me to get the main bits like the engine and some supporting pieces that are needed for all conversions. Space constraints of renting can be prohibitive to having a donor vehicle on the property too. So this is how I "bench" test my engine and cutdown loom (plus it's good fun). Loom was cut down last week and the test done this weekend gone. Everything wiring wise checks out. Engine wise I have a code 35 (purge control solenoid valve) and no knocking on start up Now it'll get some preventative maintenance such as head gaskets while it remains out of the vehicle. https://youtu.be/vBXrmIzWiZY I reckon @sparkyboy will wet his pants at this and I kind of hope a few more of you will too (and be inspired to do your own conversions!). I've since fitted a radiator and run it for a longer period of time. I'm hoping to do this again later in the week, not that I have to, but I would like to see the light for the fan trigger to come on... This will end up in my Brumby once both engine and vehicle are ready. Cheers Bennie

When I do my brumby valve clearances I have that cylinder at top dead centre. Since your headsare off the vehicle, when there is no load on the valves, this would be the best spot to do them in. Cheers Bennie

What I don’t understand about this issue (the 2009 one) is that the fans were NOT running and a new coolant temp sensor “fixed” it. If there’s an issue with the coolant temp sensor, or the circuit, the ECU runs the fans full time and the check engine light will illuminate. @1997reduxe - the best way to see the coolant temp sensor is from behind the intake manifold on the RHS of the engine. Cheers Bennie

The cam will become very easy to rotate, no friction compared to when trying to push a valve. It’s very obvious! Cheers Bennie

I should add this is for the state of Victoria. Other states differ. I believe ours used to be very strict - to/from mechanics or club events. It was very difficult to take a Sunday drive for yourself from what I understand. But that’s all changed now and for the better. Over here in all states our plates don’t change. We used to have windscreen stickers but now we just pay our rego and it’s done. Police can check rego on their systems now rather than relying on the sticker - but it’s easy to miss your rego payment. Club rego is good because regular use rego is over $700 per vehicle annually. Club rego I think is about $70 a year! But your vehicle has to be a minimum of 25 years old. Dad argues with me all the time that my subi’s aren’t a true classic... Anyway, I can’t wait to get my subi on club rego. My other ones need to be engineered to transfer to club rego. Cheers Bennie

I should add that NA clutches are interchangeable with each other. Turbo ones are not interchangeable. If you want the NA push clutch, you must also swap to the NA gearbox as the clutch pivot point is completely different. Cheers Bennie

Over here we have to be a member of an approved car club, and keep a log book of days driven. You can get a 45 or 90 day registration. After 90 days you can’t drive the vehicle any more. And if you crash without the log book filled in for that day your vehicle is effectively not registered - and thus, you’re not covered by the compulsory road authority insurance. I’m hoping to get my first car registered on these club plates later this year. Just need some shed time! Cheers Bennie

Good effort Nico! Will all the glass be removed before the respray? And any spray work happening under the vehicle? Mid love to do the same to my L series but time, money and space are at a premium these days ;( Keep up the good work! Cheers Bennie

Cabin fan turned on? If not then try that. Otherwise it could be a wiring issue behind the dashboard or an issue with the relays (RHS strut tower). Or as Naru2 said - not gassed enough. Cheers Bennie

No, definitely without AC. @carfreak85 - The turbo one won’t fit as that is based on the EA82 setup. The EA81 doesn’t have the ability to bolt anything to the water pump pulley. I’m starting to think this fan was an Australian only thing - but I find that hard to believe. ^ This is what I’m talking about. Mover here, if you’ve got AC fitted this fan is removed for a second electric fan that’s run by the AC wiring loom. Here’s a pic of the stock electric fan with the AC (top unit): If you can’t find a mechanical fan, I’d be using all of that available space for a larger thermo fan or two smaller units. I’ve got 2x 12 inch on my L series from memory - these cool the EJ just fine, so cooling the little EA81 would be a breeze. Cheers Bennie

Clutch/flywheel/forks - all interchangeable. I’ve got an EJ22 (4 bolt) bolted to an SG (8 bolt) cased L series dual range AWD locking centre diff gearbox with a Gen1 flywheel, pressure plate and cable clutch fork - in an L series Gearboxes, externally, the phase two boxes all look the same, but internally they have different gear ratios, diff ratio and speed sensor drive gear. Same goes for the phase1 gearboxes but externally they’re different to the phase two box. Internals are not interchangeable due to a change in the reverse gear setup/size. If a legacy box was put into the forester and the rear diff wasn’t swapped to the matching diff ratio you could have other issues with the gearbox. Keep us posted Cheers Bennie

That’s blasphemy!! And having the hawk grille of the hawk eye is where the “good” looks stop there for the original model. The updated facelift is the one to have if you’re going for the tribeca in my opinion - or get something else. Cheers Bennie

I really really don’t think you’ve done this in an EA81 platform either - unless the US versions got the hill holder function. Over here we did not. The EJ251/EJ253 will fit. A mate of mine did one years ago and it passed engineering easily. And it was stupid quick! The EJ25D and any other dual cam variant does not fit without frame/chassis rail mods for a clean install. The SOHC with the valve thingy black-magic stuff could be a different kettle of fish, but I don’t know for sure as I’ve never done or seen one of those in the EA81 engine bay... Cheers Bennie

@sparkyboy - you’re correct. I originally had the EA82 AWD gearbox internals in the front cases of the liberty/legacy gearbox. And I got to keep my low range I’ve now got a real “hybrid box” - SG Foz gearset and front cases, L series AWD centre diff and its matching rear housing, L series 1.59:1 low range and 4.111:1 diff ratio. Goes very well both on and offroad! @Giles, with your time on Ausubaru back in the day I’m surprised you don’t know about this conversion! The best in the L series. @sparkyboy (again) - you guys got the impreza in ‘88?? We didn’t get the impreza until ‘93 I think. The Gen1 Liberty/Legacy series1 came out in ‘89 over here! Ruby Scoo is an ‘88 model... with an EJ since 2009 from memory - it’s still going strong! Cheers Bennie

Who fits the wheel bearings? Are they lubing the bearing properly by packing the bearing with grease? If they’re fitting them with only the packaging grease, they probably won’t last long. How are the seals holding up? Are they also lubed with some rubber grease to avoid “burning” the oil seal out? Bearings wear out for many reasons - how do you use the vehicle? I was regularly replacing my rear bearings due to water crossings when regularly off-roading. Bog holes could do the same too if you played around in the mud long enough. What sort of signs of wear do you have to indicate the bearing is dead and what do they look like when they come out? As others have said, proper torque is key. And you have to retain the bearing spacer between the bearings on the front end. Cheers Bennie

Any EA81 models without AC. Look for base model vehicles - sedans and flat top wagons typically. Cheers Bennie

Correct. Either get an L series 5 speed (the EJ253 will kill this box in the end) or pick up an EJ AWD, flywheel and clutch setup. Use a cable operated clutch cable, no need to go hydro unless you like a lovely light clutch pedal Cheers Bennie

Love that colour scheme! That EJ25 is most likely a SOHC EJ253 - and it will fit in the engine bay. You’ll want to upgrade the gearbag to either the L series 5 speed or the AWD box that comes with the EJ engine. A few custom bits will be needed to fit the gearbox but there’s plenty of info on the net about this. Wiring will be the biggest issue and is the one that usually stumps most people. The keys are 1) find a wiring diagram specific to the donor model and 2) know how to read said diagram. After this a brake upgrade would be a wise idea. Rear disc conversion, new rotors and decent pads front and rear, new flexible brake lines should be the bare minimum. Then enjoy! Cheers Bennie

I’m thinking the pinion shaft bearing is dead. This was a common issue on the L series auto. What does you front diff oil look like in colour and texture/thickness? Is there more in there than what it should be? Is the trans fluid still a good red colour or Ian it discoloured? If you have either of these signs I’d say the seal between the front diff and the transmission died, allowing cross contamination of one or both components (diff/transmission). Pinion bearing then dies due to a lack of lubrications. This allows the pinion shaft to start walking as it tries to rotate the front diff. Forward/reverse action will give different noises/movements in the pinion shaft due to the shape of the hypoid diff ring gear (I hope I got that correct from memory!). If you drain the diff oil you *might* be able to get one of those little camera units in to view the pinion gear, have two people rotate the front wheels (car secured and on jack stands, transmission in neutral) while you watch the pinion gear rotate. It should be a smooth rotation with absolutely zero lateral or vertical movement. If it feels crunchy to the two turning the wheels in the same direction this will be a clear indicator things with the front diff are not healthy. If that’s the case, new transmission will be required. Cheers Bennie

If it’s got an EA81 it will. Just make sure you put it on the EA81 and not on the hatchback Cheers Bennie

@Giles - JohnnT put up a pic of the trim piece. I believe this is the trim around the instrument cluster Cheers Bennie

Host them image on a free photo hosting website or reduce the photo size and attach it to your post. Cheers Bennie

Muffler - internal parts moving or beginning to collapse. A mate of mine had the same thing in his forester last week, but a dull thudding sound like the exhaust was hitting something or there was something wrong with the rear diff (mate’s first thoughts). We narrowed it down to the exhaust. He took a punt on it being the rear muffler and had it replaced. No more noise. The sound was most prominent between ~1900 to ~2100 rpm. Loading the engine up could make it louder the longer he let it go before taking action. Cheers Bennie

I considered the tribeca as our next family bus. But decided that the Mitsubishi Pajero/Shogun/Montero(?) was the way to go in diesel. Loving it. Still got my older subi’s too I regularly see Tribecas in my area - probably because we have a dealer in our town so there are plenty of Subaru’s around. But if you don’t know what they are then you’d easily mistaken them for a CX5 or something of the like... Cheers Bennie

Welcome to the forum Hogan! Cheers Bennie