el_freddo

You got pet mice up there too? Cheers Bennie

Isn’t this exactly what @heartless did in the second reply?? I bet if everyone ignored the initial request because we don’t have the info the OP wants to read, the first reply would be from the OP with something along the lines of “really? No one? No info?”. I’m keen to see this strut delete. The only one I’ve ever seen was on Phinzinza’s MY wagon that he used for jumping (and I’m talking HIGH!). He added an upper wishbone to hold the top of the hub where the strut usually did the job. Not road legal, not worth yours or someone else’s life on the open road! To me the fabrication required for a strut delete is way more effort than swapping springs on struts or building a strut/spring combo to put on the vehicle. If the idea of spring compressors scare the bejesus out of you from some past bad experience, maybe you need to make something like this to do the work with: Cheeky Russians have their spoob sorted! Quick, safe and easy! If you’re looking at fabricating a strut delete in a Subaru I’m 100% sure you can build a device like this and sort out your current suspension. Cheers Bennie

What he wants is a basic carb runner and has a good EFI long block to use. I reckon he needs to swap that long block for a NA long block. The EFI heads mean nothing to him. Cheers Bennie

You’re going to have to trick the ECU to think that the auto is still there I reckon. I know this works on earlier models but really don’t know with the later stuff. Why didn’t you just swap for a manual vehicle? Cheers Bennie

I agree, I don’t like the male stub into the diff arrangement. When out bush too much oil to drop and too many contaminates to get into the diff/gearbox if a shaft needs to be swapped. I’m not in that era of Subaru so it’s a non issue for me but I have often thought about that. Cheers Bennie

Weeping HGs externally - coolant and oil. Usual subaru things - vibrations, weird noises... Check suspension bushes, although at 80,000 miles they should still be good for a long time unless it spent all it’s life on a dirt road. Cheers Bennie

Because what you’re asking just isn’t done commercially!! The only bolt on option is to go for a set of coil overs, but unless you want racer-boy-hug-the-road-“fun” then you’re flat out of options other than to go buy a “truck”. So basically, like everyone said previously, it’s buy all the parts and build it yourself (DIY) or buy all the parts and go to a suspension shop to have them put together and you can decide whether you fit them or they do. Youll want a 4 wheel alignment after all this work is done. Have a nice day, Cheers Bennie

You can and it won’t. It will be loud. It will most likely drone when cruising. It’ll most likely be cop bait. Pack ear muffs Cheers Bennie

Holding your sunnies! Or if off-roading and don’t have an in car UHF radio, it’s good for holding some hand held units - I did this for many years. Cheers Bennie

We love the Gen3 in our family! Solid vehicles and I really like the performance of the EJ251 that comes in the RX variant over here. We’re getting 8.6L/100km consistently with 418,000 km on the clock. Enjoy your Gen3! Cheers Bennie

You’re clearly keen on the swap so you’ll have to take measurements and work it out for yourself. I bet my $2 on the dashboard being longer than the impreza one. So you’d have to look into cutting the legacy unit down to fit, then make it all look pretty. If you’re only after the instrument cluster it might swap over with wiring repinning of some plugs. Door cards. Measure, work it out. My gut says different. Cheers Bennie

Why not get funky and run the EA82 MPFI system with those heads? The only real mod needed is to the dizzy and that’s well documented. Then it’s the wiring loom. But yes, you could run the carb on the efi heads with injectors as plug. Cheers Bennie

Interior wise, probably not a lot. Seats will probably be the only thing to transfer across - maybe. Engine, gearbox and diff no worries. Just ECU harness is what needs to be investigated. Cheers Bennie

Use the stock EJ mid pipe section that those equal length Y pipes use, then go custom from there. Ruby Scoo above runs the gen 1 Y pipe with a welded on cat back exhaust that’s custom for the L series, lift and EJ. Using the factory EA exhasut with an EJ should only be a stop gap as it’s very restricting. Cheers Bennie

Sounds like a dead crank angle sensor in the dizzy to me - ECU doesn’t know when to hit spark and doesn’t know when to fire injector. That said, I’m not sure that the SPFI ECU signals the dizzy to fire since it’s still in the mechanical spark mechanism era. Have you checked for codes yet? Cheers Bennie

What year was the engine originally from? I might be able to rip a VIN from a car advert that can be used to reference part numbers. Cheers Bennie

For a dealer, if that includes all parts AND labour, I reckon it’s a pretty good price! College student should’ve done their cam belt maintenance on time with quality parts... Cheers Bennie

Welcome to the forum! Interesting ideas and project goals you have there! I’ll be keen to read where you go with this. Boosted EJ in a mini sounds.. er.. different! Cheers Bennie

I’ve got the factory Y pipe from the Gen1 EJ22 on my L, so there’s no issue with the factory bash plate. UELs in the style of the turbo exhaust manifold (with the pipe crossing under the front of the engine but usually reversed to the turbo setup) can be made to have little to no change to the bash plate. The trick is to keep it up high and possible make a heat shield for the cam covers. To make a decent note you’ll need mufflers that don’t muffle the sound so well - straight through mufflers seem to do this well. A decent exhaust shop should sort this out no issue. This is my setup from 9 years ago. It’s still running now without any issues even though I’ve scraped it, rocked on it and flooded it with water... you can hear the exhaust in this video once it changes to the outside camera: That said, the aftermarket UEL sound is sweet. We did some DIY ones for my sister’s Gen3 RX. The other day as it pulled into our driveway I was waiting to check out the WRX that I thought was about to drive past! It’s got a cat back “sports exhaust” from the previous owner, the UELs make it Subaru spec now. No video of that I’m sorry. Pic of the build process: and the final product - I forgot to get a pic of it fitted: with this setup we can return it to stock if need be as we’ve not modified any points where joints occur in the exhaust, really though, why would you go back to stock?? Cheers Bennie

AUDM doesn’t get half of the JDM goodies that are actually on offer. NZ gets many of them shipped over as second hand vehicles from what I understand. I also don’t know how the Siamese exhaust ports help with emissions, I thought they’d drop the required emissions and that’s why they got rid of them! This could be a long shot - any models or parts made in the US - or is everything built in Japan and shipped stateside? Cheers Bennie

And we all know what resolves this issue... Cheers Bennie

This is always something I don’t understand about the USDM single port heads - why go backwards like that if you’ve got the tooling for the dual port heads? I find the whole single port heads just at odds. We’ve got the dual port all the way through in our EJ engines. Cheers Bennie

The hard start and rough idle could be too much fuel. I suspect you’re using the injectors from the EJ25, on start up a rich fuel mixture is used to help aid starting. This extra shot combined with the smaller engine capacity could cause an over fuelling situation which wouldn’t be great when starting. As for the codes, if the temp sensor was dropped or knocked when swapped with the coolant crossover pipe it could’ve died, especially if it was already hanging in there by a thread so to speak. The other codes, best of luck with those I’m sorry. Sometimes you might get lucky and have one code sorted and the rest follow suit... it doesn’t always happen, but it can at times. Cheers Bennie

And a lack of need for more speed/power! Cheers Bennie

I agree with heartless. A reputable aftermarket brand works just as good as a genuine item for ball joints, tie rod ends and rack ends. Cheers Bennie